dpascual1986

dual round top SU's. What am I looking at here?

'75 L28, fresh rebuild, wont start. 1. Ive got spark 2. Ive got Fuel 3. If I remove the hose going to the mechanical fuel pump outlet, and spray air through the hose towards the carbs, with the throttle open, fuel comes out from the carbs. I can then start the car for about 10 seconds, then it dies. 4. It will run off of starting fluid. Any ideas?

is there a particular reason why all these L24-28 freeze plug sets seem to be short two 35mm plugs? there are 5 35mm on the intake side, and 4 35mm on the alternator side, a 50mm in the back and a 40mm in the front. total of 11 plugs but most, if not all the plug sets Ive seen only have 9. Datsun 240Z 260z 280z 280ZX 1970 1983 L24 L28 Engine Freeze Plug Set Brass New | eBay Did I remove a couple that I wasnt supposed to?

noted.

About to put my engine block together. Had it decked, sleeved and bored. New pistons, polished crankshaft -armed with limited knowledge, youtube videos, some guts and a how to rebuild your datsun engine book. Ive seen this Blue character stop by local places and helps bros out and he has been helpful in my posts as well. I was wondering if there was a local guy in my area (90745 - Carson, CA) with as much passion in these cars, that'd be willing to spot me while I test uncharted waters (for me anyway).

any details on this? When and Where?

might be a stupid question but what is vapor lock? Are you running stock mechanical fuel pump? Can you show a pic your "different" fuel rail? I was planning to cut the hard lines along the firewall and attach a hose from the firewall to the carbs directly -eliminating the two hard lines on the left side of the engine bay (when looking at it head on).

thanks. I flipped through the forums using "eliminating fuel return" and there are mixed opinions about it. I guess I shouldn't eliminate -if unsure, dont fix what's not broke.

1973 240z. What is the other line on the fuel rail for, the one not connected to the fuel filter? Is it a feed to the carbs or is it a return? I want to cap it, im trying to clean up my engine bay but it kinda looks important

sooo... about that picture of the hot UPS chick..???

What is IPO? I believe you are absolutely right about poor lube and wear on bearings.. I will put this thing back together for educational purposes and be on the look out for a newer engine. From what I read, the later 280z engines were preferrable. Zedhead - what do you think about that dowel pin that I broke?

I would assume that a gasket is the first thing you think of when joining two parts like these. the gasket seems to be new, I removed the cover without difficulty, the gasket is undamaged, you can see it in the picture with the broken bolt. I still need to pull the head 1. broke the dowel pin that secures the cam sproket to the cam shaft. its not a pin is it? its an appendage to the cam, and not replaceable by your noob DIYer? 2. PO screwed the wrong bolts to the fuel pump, it broke through the inside. 3. I might as well, there's only about 10 head bolts in my way now.

soo... I have successfully removed the timing cover.. and I have found the source of our problem.. no timing cover gasket... I also found some JB weld right next to the inlet on the block for the coolant. see below... So.. the questions are.. 1.why would you go through all that trouble removing a timing cover, replacing the timing belt (i assume was new bc there doesnt seem to be any chain stretch) and not put a gasket on it? 2. Why the JB weld? (maybe to seal up the coolant inlet for the block?) 3. Would a machine shop be able to check the cover for warpage, cracks and other mickey mouse crap the PO did to it? 4. Does anyone have a link to where I can buy a new timing cover? On a different note, I was able to get to the broken bolt. Here it is in all its glory You can see the jb weld that went around the inlet. (i dont know the proper term). I can't get over people that screws others over. :tapemouth I tried to drill it out with a left handed drill bit, no success, I then tried to ez-out it (i got a firm bite but it felt so hard that I didn't want to risk breaking the ez-out in there. I will attempt to weld a new head on it by this week. My question is.. 1. I read that welding on the block is relatively easy because the block is cast iron and the bolt is steel -meaning that if you miss the bolt remnants and hit the block with your mig wire, it wont weld on the block for a few reasons a. the block takes longer to heat up b. two different types of metal (steel and iron) Can someone confirm my information? This week's goal 1. Remove head and get it machined. 2. Repair timing cover or replaced 3. Weld a new head on broken bolt

if a mobile mechanic just spilled a gallon of oil in the garage and broke a bolt in the engine block, he'd be having a real bad day.

aha! you're right, its not in the block, its only in the timing cover -unless that bolt was meant to go through the cover and into the block (it is pretty long). i meant to check the pressure to find where my leak is, the current theory is that i might have a hole in a core plug positioned inside the timing cover.

My dear Z brothers, I have once again made a mistake... Blunder #2 - I removed the thermostat and replaced the housing thingy. I then proceeded to replace the water pump with the intent of doing a cooling system pressure check - I was able to borrow a set from my friend. As I was tightening the bolts, the top left long bolt broke with barely 1/8 inch left of thread left on the broken off bolt. Which means... 1. The broken part is deep in there. 2. I cant just use a shorter bolt. I can't fix this blunder with a water hose, a brush and powdered detergent. Please advice. I have used the harbor freight broken bolt remover thing, it doesnt work for anything. Any recommended brands? Techniques? Daniel

I am planning to do both A and B. I have a good amount of tasks to do, I will update you guys by Monday. 1. Get radiator pressure tested 2. Check compression (is this possible with a non starting engine? I mean Ive already removed the water pump, intake and radiator) 3. Pictures 4. Remove timing cover, change all core plugs (except for front and back per reading material, unless absolutely necessary) 5. See if I can get fluid from cylinders (I dont think I should get any, I dont have white smoke)

exactly what I was thinking about things not being in the right order/year/etc. I sprayed all the bolts with that liquid wrench stuff, I will spray daily so by the time my parts come in, my bolts will be free and no bolts will be broken -hopefully. (seems like a lot have had that problem) I have a shoe box to collect nuts and bolts, a sharpie and two boxes of the dollar store ziplock bags. I should have taken a pic of that lake of oil I made in my garage but that would have put oil on my camera as well, it was everywhere.

i dont suppose someone has pictures of these hiding ninja bolts?

will do. I will post results as soon as my parts come in and I am ready to put things back together.

funny you should recommend that, I have the Haynes book opened to the exact page (aligning the oil pump drive to the pump) on my night stand at home. something about aligning the dots. Good to know.

Excellent find Zed Head. This looks promising. I will buy a new freeze plug set and replace them all. I am certain this is the cause of my milkshake woes. Any tips for me on removing the distributor? I know this affects timing as well.

Yes, that is the goal at this point 1. Get head machined - Valves, etc... 2. Replace timing cover with new. Is this even available? Any links? Ive already ordered a new gasket set, new oil pump, water pump. I'm a little perplexed, If it was coming from the headgasket, it would only be a little bit of fluid, spilling into the cylinders and not the entire contents of the cooling system (assuming there is two gallons in the cooling system) (1 gallon oil, 2 gallons of coolant = 3 gallons of milky sludge) So I am assuming at this point that my leak is somewhere near the bottom where gravity would drain all my coolant and enter into the oil. Has anyone heard of a crack/leak within the cylinders? Would an improperly sealing timing cover funnel all that fluid into the oil pan? Sorry for all the questions - I am waiting for my parts to come in through the mail, I figured id ask as much as I can while I wait.

sooo... dont you guys guys give up on me yet. I messed up today. I bought a oil pan thing to drain all the oil as suggested... this one from harbor freight Waste Oil Storage Container as i removed the drain plug, it fell into the drain hole of my my newly bought oil container, effectively plugging it. I must have had about a gallon of that milk on my floor so I spent an entire afternoon scrubbing my garage. boo :mad: in other news, here is the fluid that I removed. if you can read it closely, the water jug is 1 gallon, and the poison is 1.33 gallonss, both full of milky oil, fully mixed, not a suspension. If I had to guess, there was about 3 gallons of oil/coolant in the pan. thoughts, comments? violent reactions?

Hey blue, thanks. I was just testing if I could loosen it last night. Everything else was easy, just tricky to find ways to fit my wrenches to remove the manifolds without messing with my carbs. I will get something to hold it down and put it in gear. So counterclockwise must be the right way.