dpascual1986

Its already in pieces and to put it back together would mean I'd have to use my new gasket kit. I propose to continue with removing the head, get it machined, then see if that solves it. If not then I would have only used up a gasket kit, which at this point, I would also have to use if I decided to turn back. Few issues... that bolt/nut? On the cam gear is tough to remove, its tight enough to turn the crank when I try to break it loose with a breaker bar, counter clockwise. Torque is not an issue, I can find a lot of ways to increase the amount of force I use to remove that nut/bolt? I just need to know that that's what I need to be doing.

I have removed the radiator, intake manifold, water pump, alternator... no bolts broken yet. I also did more research and here are more clues to the puzzle... 1. I have no evidence of oil in the radiator 2. I have coolant or water in my dip stick, cam shaft, and the right side of my timing cover where it meets the block (leaking) 3. I have no white smoke.

yep, im looking into learning how to do it. like I said, it runs but doesn't drive well -I have an alternate, reliably running car, the 240z on the other hand is chilling in the garage, half in boxes. If im going to replace the engine anyway, like you suggested, I might as well try my luck and attempt to do it. Ill replace if I irreparably break things :-)

It runs and is drivable, forward and back but that's pretty much it for fear of overheating/ more coolant/oil mixing. There is a leak on the right side of the timing cover, between the block, not by the head. Is the timing chain submerged into oil or what would cause a significant amount of oil to leak from this spot? Daniel

I bought this from a guy who claims he frequents this forum. He said all it needed was a new battery. Lo and behold, nothing worked. I mean nothing worked, no lights, doors, brakes, no exhaust, wiring was all hacked up, ignition switch....You name it, it didn't work. If I ever find that asshold, imma buy him a beer and expose his a$$ so he won't dupe another noob again. Everyday I find something new to fix on my hack job of a car. All the lights work now, ignition switch, doors, etc. I'm now venturing onto unfamiliar territory - the engine. What's done is done, so now my task is to fix. Milky in dip stick, I assume pan as well. Not just headgasket and timing chain? Feel free to chime in and let me know what else I need.

im asian dude, I dont need jackstands to get that engine closer to me. its up to my chest as it is.

im actually a step below your level, Im new to the engines and my only experience driving them is about 2 minutes total. I only move it in and out of my garage, it has a significant leak on the right side of the timing cover (milky fluid) and has jizz all over the cam.

I guess these wont work then. thanks for the advice.

That's what Im talking about :-) Next concern - 40 year old car = Hard to remove nuts and bolts. What if during my tinkering, I accidentally turn something that I have set to something specific. If someone would point out what I need to prevent, I would give them my first born child. Example, engine set at TDC then I go to remove the cam sprocket and the chain turns = no longer at TDC.

I have this manual, and I have the chain tool to prevent it from sliding down. You are going to have to forgive me when I say the manual references to things that is jargon to me -what I do know is, I do not know and determined to learn. ISSUES: Im at work so I dont have the book on me. Off of the top of my head, these were a few things that needed clarification... -It references to things such as "you need to set mark to pointer". Not an exact quote but which pointer am I looking at? -Make sure you are TC at its firing stroke, and not ....How do I know which is the firing stroke? I tried to youtube/google setting TC, nothing. Is this the same at TDC? - Something about making sure X cynlinder exhaust and intake valves were fully closed. Which one is intake vs exhaust? I know my questions sound stupid, and I accept that but I will not learn if I don't ask/expose myself. I will be happy to pay it forward 20 years from now, when a noob much like myself asks the same questions. If youre going to suggest that I take formal instructions, Ive tried. I have a mortgage and 3 jobs. No college within So-Cal have a schedule that will fit mine and I just cant justify trade school at thousands of dollars to do a $500 repair -im not looking to make this a profession Daniel

I can have everything out of the way before you come. Intake, exhaust, radiator, fan...

I am determined to learn how to remove the head. I have bought several books, including the "how to rebuild your datsun engine". However for fear of costing me more than it should, I am interested in a set of knowledgable eyes and hands. I am in the Carson, CA area. I am willing to pay what it would cost a mobile mechanic to do the job. Please quote me for the headgasket repair. I would like to learn the process at the same time. My garage is semi-equipped. I have a compressor, wrenches, sockets, a radio, TV and beer. We will be working inside the garage where it is shaded from the sun and the elements. I need a quote for instruction. Daniel '73 240z Hack Job

how about the solid green and solid black wires from the master cylinder caps? Which bundle of wires connects these two wires? Sorry, I got a hack job of a car. :-(

strong work bruu. it was exactly where you said it would be. thanks

Need help identifying a wire - Yellow with green stripe coming from the same wire bundle where the window washer pump wires are. Daniel

I figured it out.. heres how.. 1. Remove air dam from car 2. Install the turn signals, twisting the air dam as needed. 3. Apply heat from a heat gun (only to the turn signal area so the air dam would retain its shape) to soften the air dam material to release the tension from the turn signal light install. 4. Let cool to retain its new shape. 5. Install air dam on car 6. Enjoy :-)

Can someone send me a picture of how the battery is secured originally? Also, if someone has modified how their battery is secured, I would like to get ideas. Thanks :-)

Did anyone have a hard time fitting their turn signals on this air dam? The air dam's contours doesnt seem to fit the turn signals very well. Any tips or tricks that you did? Its on a 73 240z Motorsport! Urethane Air Dam, With Brake Cooling Ducts, 70-8/74 240Z-260Z - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts

thanks for the pics. Removing the tank is relatively easy, I will do it this weekend and update you guys. Anyone have any comments about the short circuit finder? Seem like a good buy?

I know you told me that wires should match on both sides but I have a lot of wires that do not match -they are too short to go anywhere else, they have matching connectors, and the rest of the harness does not have a similar connector with the proper color on it. Im confused... I will take pictures to illustrate.

you are the winner sir, I havent connected the flashers in the front. As for everyone else, I have found the grounding point in the back, and in the front, I will clean both, replace terminals and add grounding points this weekend and see where it takes me. Does anyone have any opinions about this...? I am planning to get one to help with my short circuit woes.. Oh and I replaced my T/S flasher last night, it keeps clicking when my key is Off and on ACC but turns off when I switch to On (regardless of T/S switch position- up, middle, or down) Any clues which wire I may have crossed?

can you show me/tell me where this wire is?

So I just got my hazard lights working today... is this normal? the blinker seems slow, and it dims the parking lights. Any suggestions before I go at it again tomorrow afternoon?

Will do, SteveJ. I will update next week once I get through the suggestions. Thanks for the quick replies and expert advice.