pakmule87

Who cares about period correct If I ever get mine done, I snatched a relay box from a Mazda B2200. All I really had to do was make some brackets to mount, run a new cable from the starter (single post feeds all the fuses), and crimp on some female spade connectors to the old wires. Heck even gave me a 5th slot that I am gonna use for my FI Harness whenever I get it redone. So practicality first for those who aren't trying to win at the car shows that matter

Id have told him I would give him a deal and part with it for 100k

One of these days I will get all the pics I have uploaded on here

Plenty more work before she ever gets done...mainly body work as far as time is concerned, so today I got bored trying to figure out what I was going to do with the grill, and figured I would just post of the mock up pic of most of the body parts on it. Hasn't been this close to being "together" for years. It won't end up being a show car, but a nice daily driver when I am done. Excuse the red fender...I was just too lazy to grab the original and had the extra one from the 240z I picked up. When I am done, it will have the 240z front end (I know plenty of work to get it close to right). And excuse the piece of wood holding up the bumper, still have to mod the original brackets Main work I still need to do, replace the injectors, rebuild fuel harness, put brackets back in engine compartment, fiberglass work for the replacement rear fender repair panels (dad had flares on it that were done badly, so much butchery on my part to clean up), fiberglass on some fender holes, doors, and back side of wheel wells, redo front section of body harness (rats yikes!), clean up of rust and put some nice por-15 on hidden areas with truck bed coating over it, and some stuff that is held up for spare cash to get such as weatherstripping and paint when I also get far enough. Maybe this year I will finally get it done. But bottomline, figured I would finally share with you all my Z.

One thing I don't look forward to having done to mine when it gets to that point. I got lucky with my 280z even with it having been bought for my dad when it was new. I have rust and dirt inside the frame rail (and slightly bent and lucky as hell that it didn't get messed up far enough to have caused rust) that I spent a day having fun with a blow gun for about half an hour trying to get a chunk of it out. Btw, any tips for trying to get something on the inside of the rails to help delay the inevitable?

Pic before I put in the speakers, and yes it is a little off and the speakers are set behind the seats but are fine from what testing I did

Better yet, since the tales of caution of spares, build yourself a cooler that can be removed and fit snuggly between the strut towers. I built a removable speaker box/tool compartment (for access to stuff outside the tool compartments that can be stored) that worked well, and you can make it where it doesnt require any permanent or rather noticeable modifications.

Just out of curiousity, what are the value of the 77-78 Nissan "mags"? Lets just say for sake of argument that they are in sitting in somebody's backyard for the past 20 years condition without the emblems (actually have no idea of condition). Also for a set of the 14" 5 slot wheels as well. Currently I have the set of 5 slots on the 71 240z I picked up the other weekend (parting out since it is about all it is worth) and the 77-78 wheels are another parts car I may be picking up if I can get rid of enough stuff. I do also realize that value for something like this does get down to more of what somebody who wants them is willing to pay, so reasonable price ranges that yall may have seen would work fine.

Pity we can't run the year correct tags for most of the Zs here in Georgia...Only the lucky 1970 240zs get that honor. Cause if they would move it up for us, I have a 76 tag that I have my eye on at a local restaurant hehehe... Off topic, I know

At least the original integrity wasn't compromised with the speaker system...but the rest though, who really cares? And btw...I WANNA FLIP THE SWITCH!!! Seriously, red toggle switch cover behind the choke.

Almost thought I might have had one with the 71 240z I just picked up yesterday...but then I remembered it was in the process of being swapped to manual >_<

All I know is that the guy i'm getting it from got it just 3 days earlier, from a guy who had done some work to it, but was still plenty of a project, and had some health issues with a family member so he had to resell it.

Marietta, I am gonna guess you called him after I did. I hate that he has to wait til Saturday for me to get it, but glad to know how nice of a guy he is about holding it for me.

Dang, i should live in his world. I could sell the 240z im picking up this weekend for at least 10k

On my 76 it still has the stock exhaust. Granted the resonator was cut out back in the day, and the car hasn't seen good road time in about...25 years and has only about 115k miles, I was able to clean off the surface rust that was on the outside and throw on some high heat paint, to at least not have it rusting as badly from both inside and out, which should give a little longer before I have to replace it, or at least long enough to get the car done where I can have it back on the road

Id say do your best to cut out repair panels to sell. I had a guy cut off a weld on kit on a parts car I got, and he said that every single Z he went to look at up north had the spare tire wheel well were rusted out, which is about the only thing I have left to do before scrapping the shell. It would take time, but would be able to get you a little more out of it cash wise, even if you have to sit on the parts for a little while. Just get it down to just bare body, especially if you have a way to get it hauled off, since any part in good enough shape (even some minor pitting) on axle parts should be able to get you a few dollars.

Hmm...thought about doing this myself a while back, then I forgot and now realize I have a broken office chair about 5 feet from me and I have 2 seats (redone by po of a parts car in burlap) that aren't doing anything.

I'm trying to see if I can get lucky (when I have the money) about getting a good condition lower valance set for a 240z/260z for the lower turn signals...I know it requires modification, but I am going to be putting it on my 76 280z along with a set of 72 bumpers that are in "paintable" condition, oh and rubber for the bumpers too at a good price

1) It just is using the figure as reference for the path of electricity so that you have a visual reference. 2) Go here S30 and S130 Wiring Harness repair kits. You NEED this if you have an L28E or L28ET! - Parts for Sale - HybridZ, it is a full kit (minus 1 EV1 style connector) or you can just go to his eBay listing Datsun 240Z to 280ZX Wiring Harness Repair Kit EV1 TPS and afm Connectors | eBay. This will be helpful to you how ever you look at it, since you will probably need to replace other connectors too, and he has a great price on them. He also has them with pigtails if you rather go that route for a few dollars more. 3) Only if the continuity tests directly at the switch doesn't work. No sense in spending money you don't have to. Options you have are either junkyards for other cars that used the same fuel injection system (anybody who wants to chime in on specific models feel free to) or buy new. I searched online for the typical parts stores, and NAPA or Advance Auto Parts may actually be able to get them, though I am not 100%, they just didn't show "unavailable" like Autozone and Oreillys did. Just click on the name of the store, I put the link straight to their selection in it.

I guess I am kinda guilty on my 280z that I am working on...have a Mazda b2200 engine fuse box to replace the old fusible links, changed the hot wire with a single heavier cable, painted my engine compartment a simple gloss gray (spray can to just clean up appearances for a daily driver planned Z), cut off fender flares which weren't done right in the 70s and have replacement panels welded on and working on fiberglassing the welds, made a speakerbox that doubles as a tool compartment for a cd player...not to mention 84-85 300zx wheels, going 240z front end with MSA fiberglass valance. And top it off with planning on repainting with Honda silver. Im just terrible

My grandpa used to haul hay in the one I'm working on. Can't remember how long it took to get all of it out

I think its safe to go with B for the final answer. There is the possibilty of A, but the part that knocks that out is the idea of having the redundancy of the ECU controlling the CSV which would have to ignore the TMS or have the TMS tie into the ECU as well, but not the middle ground of how it does work and grounding to the ECU.

Just finally got a chance to look over the FSMs for the 280z. 75-76 harnesses are made the same, the 77 harness adds in the altitude switch, with the 78 changed the relays,has the altitude switch, and cut out wires 39 and 36 from the AFM. Oh and Captainobvious, I didn't know Wade was talking about a ZX, so just consider me an idiot for that part of my ramblings and pretty much the rest of it too. A little bit of time actually looking into the FSM straightened me up on my...we will just go with complete idiot-ness On a positive note, I think I figured out the only purpose of 21, which is checking continuity of the Cold Start and Thermotime Switch.

Then we will consider it business then. And I will be buying from Fricfrac for connectors. What I am doing is redoing the heatshrink, and replacing all the terminals for fresh connections for all ends as well for these with just reusing the connector housings that I haven't been able to find and the wiring from the old harness.

The other side of the injectors come off of the resistors next to the master cylinders giving the power from the battery with the only connection being at the resistors. At most (I speak from not much experience, so somebody feel free to correct me if I'm speaking from stupidity) from the cold start valve is to put more fuel to the engine when it is as you can assume cold, and can cause it to flood (or require a tune up as Nissan mechanics will falsely tell you back in the day) if your temp sensor has something wrong with it or the connection. I will be going through all the FSMs when I get the chance to check, was just trying to be sure if there was possibly something left out or missed, since so far I have been going off of the 76 (since that is the model I have and no since having 4 manuals on my phone when 1 will do) and it has matched up. But whenever I do get it done and on eBay, the old "check to be sure" should cover any problems other than idiots with only one choice of negative feedback since eBay probably wont help them