malibud

I am sorry just had a train of thought. Will the 2+2 clutch fit on any flywheel ? . I have 280zx trans so I will use that collar with a clutch kit . I will get my spare flywheel surfaced . Thanks DC

Thanks I think they are all the same so the next ? Can I put the 240 clutch fit on the coupe. Thanks

280z engine in a 240zna lost the clutch yesterday so ... I have a l24 flywheel in the garage can I have it surfaced and ready to go (in other words are the l24 and l28 flywheels the same ) Is it worth it to buy a lighten fly wheel on a NA car? I was think of saving $ and put it in my turbo car thought it would have a greater effect. Thanks DC

Sure I sent you a PM. Hes a nice guy and has a race shop and only works on diffs on the side to help pay for racing. I say its a race shop but maybe more like a huge garage that would make everyone here jealous.

Travelin' man you'll notice a difference in the mountains. Especially with the extra HPs you have. It makes a bigger difference in my turbo car than the NA just because of the torque but a nice upgrade. There is a guy in Weaverville who works on diffs. especially the Subaru and Mazda stuff. I had him re-stack the shims in mine after I broke the c-clips. I was told it is better than stock but don't know for sure since I broke mine before install the 1st time.

No, Highly recommended I have a r200 LSD in my turbo car. I like the sti diff a little better maybe because I had the shims re stacked in the sti. I found my STI diff on the WRX forums pretty cheap.

After installing a STI diff in I figured I would share my experience. Ok the folks at Wolf Creek say to hit the stub axles in with a hammer. Mine did not go in so easy so i put it on a press . Don't do what I did~! You must center the C-clip that lies in the diff between the shims of the LSD. I being a newbie did not know and broke the C-clip. Luckily it fell into the spider gear and locked the diff so when I turned in a parking lot it was like having a welded diff. After taking back out again and taking it to local diff guy he re-stacked the plates and replaced the C-clip all is good now. Much better handling ...

Glad you liked the car . It took a while to get there plus a few hiccups that George did not mention like the state of Tenn. miss printing the vin numbers on the title and the customs not letting him have the car but thanks to Tenn. to rectify the situation. Glad to hear it went well. That is the only z that I have ever had that has little or no cabin exhaust fumes. I am still trying to fix mine on my 2 240s. I hope to pay you and the car a visit one day in Greece. As usual if you need any parts from over here let me know.. Dan

Zed Head, Thanks for the help I tested everything and traced it back to the the temp sensor going to the head was broken. Replaced timing jump to 20 degrees at idle. Still had the problem with it and called Jim wolf . They said to recirculate the BOV into the intake. Since the Bov was ging into the atmoshere it was tricking the MAF sensor. I am working on it now keep you posted.

Sorry I left out details . yes I have 2 72s . This one is a turbo swap it is new to me so I don't know everything. it is kinda of a hodge podge bored out f54 block, n42 head, Jim Wolf ECU (modified stock) 420 injectors, garrett turbo, water/oil cooled external waste gate about 1 bar of boost. I think the wastegate is a TIal knock off I have read it is best to spend the money here and get a new WG. Yes I tested the TPS circuit at the ECU box worked connection with no throttle infinity ohms at throttle(no connectivity). There is only a limited amount of adjustment by moving the TPS. I did move it up as far as it could go RPM increased but still did not help problem: Coming off high rev Rpms drop then car dies. Maybe I should open the TPS and clean contacts . I did test the FI temp sensor it checked out OK 2.6 ohms (it is mounted on the fuel pump delete plate) I will try to figure out where it plugs into the ECU this week and check connectivity there to rule it out but perhaps this is where the problem is. Thanks again

The problem is in the TPS .. my throttle body has been replaced . in the manual it has the TPS facing up mine is horizontal. Make a difference ? when I move it down RPM drops . I did the OHm test per FSM everything checked out. maybe time to pull the TPS apart and clean points ? or try to turn vertical but I would only have one screw to hold it on. Does the placement of the TPS hold open the throttle at idle ? Man the more I learn the more ?s I have. the old s30 is much easier but boost is fun.

Got it I will check tomorrow many thanks...

I have spare from a 75 280z that I can switch are they the same ? So the there is no more adjusting the timing advance ? What about unplugging the tps ? Interesting because it idles fine but dies after running hard . I guess the egr has nothing to do with it it does not have a vacuum line hooked to it. Thanks for the quick response

Ok the FSM says 24 degrees , I loosen the 2 bolts and turned the dizzy but 12 is as far as I can go . I can't find any other bolts. I think I have eliminated all vacuum leaks. Is there a bolt to loosen so that i can get more advance? My car dies at idle. thanks

Got them new at wolf creek . I had trouble getting one past the clip. With the press I got it in. It drop until the clip fit in the grooves. I will google and see if I figure out How do you take the clips out . thanks

I am sorry did not mean float . just clunk from take off like the jostle from the drive shaft moves it then clunk it quickly goes it way . no other problems at high speed . I used a press because it would not go in with sledge hammer and 2x4. Dude a wolf creek thought it might be ok .

So i did the sti swap everything is great except for 1st gear. When I let out the clutch (especially if it slow) I get a clunk and a funny grinding noise ? Everything is tight but the diff kind floats there anyway . Is everything OK ? I did have to use a press to get in one of the shafts and was a bit worried there. I was going to drive a bit more and change the oil to look for metal shavings . Any advice is welcomed.

I would not cut it takes a lot to get the fumes out even filled with water

I am more interested on a stock car . I am in the process of buying a stock car with some ugly rims . I have 14" rewinds I my other one . Thanks for the time in putting it in the calculator. I have learned a bunch on off sets . Man I wish they were 15"

Sorry about that the wheels are panasports the ad just says that they are 225/50/16 +6 offset . The owner said they would not rub but I know they would be real close. I have two cars one is lowered 1" (don't think it will work) second car is a 71' with stock suspension. (maybe) nankang tire (never heard of it ) hope this helps Thanks for input

Has anybody tried it . I have looked but no real answer ... I think it will but thought maybe someone out there has tried it . Found some bought but never used for sale and am a little wary Thanks Dc

I have a used closed ratio I will let go for 300 +ship. I was told it was from a running car. I have the same set up as you 3.9 STI diff with closed ratio . I never ran the rear with a 4 speed but imagine it would be rough on the interstate but 4th gear is fun for passing . Just did all at once. I just grabbed a used trans and put it in no problems yet ...

I don't think the rock or chain method is going to work with that sealant in there

you got to find a place that will still cook them . there is a place here on the outskirts of town who will boil it and cut open sandblast and seal. not to many places that will still do it

Thanks ! thats why I got it so cheap, the stripped bolt. well that and it was low on fluid but for the price I figure i could give it a shot. it has 110k miles on it the engine spun a bearing so I wonder about the condition of the diff. thanks