malibud

update i am a dumb A. i put the the calipers on and finally realized that they are s12W and are made for vented rotors . got the s12+8 all is good no spacers . would make someone a good deal on some a good deal on some s12W calipers and almost mew EBC green stuff pads . got them on ebay . thanks for the help.

well since you put it that way... i will get the studs . now if i can justthe front brakes bled. i cant seem to get them to go anywhere.

I am using the stock solid rotors. I tried to measure by using washers and best I can tell 5mm will clear it but they only come in 61mm hub size should fit the back (i ordered all 4) but am going to have machine the front ones. Best I can tell it will need to be 73mm for the front. would like to get as close to hubcentric as I can. Can anyone confirm the front size ? I am going to go out there and measure with a string and divide by 3.14 and see what happens . Thanks for the offer Jerry but i already ordered them. 14 and 15" Konig will not clear Toyota calipers without spacers I tried both . I think with 5mm i can get about 5-6 turns on stock stud bolts should be OK a think Dan

I put Toyota calipers on the front and my rewinds will not clear I tried 5mm washers so I getting 5mm spacers looks like it will work , Question do I get the spacers for all 4 wheels or just the front/ I am leaning toward all four any suggestions would be helpful. thanks

i know the topic has been beat to death but i assume that a series2 240 would work ?

Thanks Patcon, I am trying to find a parts car. I have not seen the car but need a windsheild, dash, wiring harness, heater fan, core etc. the car is at the fabricators shop now. He was welding floor pans in and didn't realize someone had dischargered the exstingisher. Of course my worry is not being able to get everything together to work right.

Well.. my person who was welding my floor pans in caught my car on fire and burned up the dash headliner and broke the windshield . What years will fit I understand that the early 70-71 are the same dash. what about wiring harness and windshield any one know where I can get one ?

I have a 280z bushing kit bought in 2005 for a late 260-280z anybody know which ones might work on my 70' 240z ? they are poly. and kinda hard i guess that is the way they are supposed to be ? thanks

i found a 4.11 bolt in . would it be worth it to pick it up and try to sell off the 3.9 . it is going to to be a weekend street machine . think i would notice a difference between the two? tried to find the ratio caculator but it was gone.

the one I ordered was bolt in. would like to find a 4.11 it is difficult.

i have a 70 that has a long way to go. i wasnt sure which way to go and this one came up. they are hard to find . i hope that i made the right decison . i went with the 720 because it sounds a lot easier than to have to scource out all the parts for the r200. all said and done the cost was about the same . 4.11 give you more bottom end? is it a direct bolt up? it is a r180?

I really can't remember be honest, after further reading I found it has a taller 1st and 2nd. i am going with it since it is what I have sitting the garage.

i been looking at a r180 with the 3.9 ratio from a 720 truck 4x4 . will it direct bolt in to my70 240z? or do i need new shafts . this one has bolt flanges. i am going with l28 and want to make the best of it. i am going with the 4 speed for now although i have 5speed from a 83 zx . but from what i read i should not use it.? any ideas would be helpful. thanks dan

i think they are they are Kong rewinds I was more worried about the highth of the tire thanks

I have a set of 15" rims with new 205/65/15 tires . I have a set of tokico hps . I want to install the blues with the EIbach springs from MSA on a 70' 240z .... Will I have enough clearance ? any experience with this set up thanks Dan

yes they have the bars thanks I will pull them out tomorrow it is a 70'

In the middle of cleaning out engine bay for sand blasting ..Can I take of the hood hinge is it spring loaded ? I guess the real question is can I get it back in ? also what color is it suppose to be ? thanks

i think i will skip it too feel better relying on theol pressure switch . thanks interesting though

where did you mount the inertial switch and is needed ? I have never used one will cut power if you hit some railroad track hard ? thanks for the write up going to follow your directions on my build .

Good thread so it looks like .0025 is max to distance between piston and head

I will let you all know what he says. I still have a long ways to go. I picked up someone elses project engine up. so i may end up needing a new block and start over we will just have to see. John williams and the machine shop next to him are in Sugar Hill GA I think it is up 75 just north of ATL his number is 770806 2926. I dont think he would mind putting his number up since I have seen it here before. A good guy does a lot of race stuff.

I went with John Williams in Atlanta a little closer. The problem now is that the pistons stick about .050" out. the block was shaved too much and the head had .006 taken off. I guess it is time to shave the new pistons

i am going to stick with the su style carbs. keep the 4 speed and rear for now. next will be brakes and suspension . still have a passanger floor pan and body for later. would a n42 head make that much difference? any ideas where my 0-60 or 1/4 mile would be with a mild cam and 079/ f54 combo in an early 240? thanks

ok i just picked upa f54block with p 79 head bore .30over . it all has been to the machine shop but has not been put together. pistons are in valves and guides are in though. should i stick with the head since it has been fixed and ready to go even though i am looking at 8.3:1 compression. i need a cam since the cam was lost. Any ideas on the cam ?. i have searched around but most are using a n42 or p90 head with this block. thanks dan

also it helps to tape the carter pin to the top of center punch and push it in. justed put the master cylinder in after reading the post . yes take theseat out....