malibud

sweet !!! thanks a bunch paypal sent. dan I will email you my address ...

the pics did not turn out great but I think you get the idea if not I can post another ... thanks chuck let me know if they will work and price Dan

hope this works

Any one know the part number or where i can find 2 center caps thanks a bunch Dan

Ok wade I understand your point and no I am not supporting hair regrowth products because my hair is long gone. This is a hobby for me and first time messing with anything fuel injected. I cleaned up the connections and everything has worked for the last week although I still have fuel issue but I think it may have been fixed by cleaning out the fuel pump. But I have learned a lot from you and your patience. the people at auto zone said I had a bad alternator because at idle i was only at 11 amps. wrong . After taking it out and having it tested it was fine . I found the external voltage regulator it looked new and must have been replaced along with the alternator. After cleaning up all my connections no problems so thanks for the lesson on alternators . I am not past taking to the expert but only after giving it a good try ....

Thats strange my alternator runs at 14V at idle then drops to 11 or so then at 2500 rpm goes back to 14. I have other problems like lack of fuel now to try to tackle so far no dead battery but I have not drove it much. thanks for the lesson in alternators.

OK Wade I think you were right and I am a dumb A$$ . I think so far it is all working I cleaned up the grounds and starter connections and all is good 12v at idle 14 at 2500 rpm. Now it runs great until it warms up and then it putters and back fires like it not getting enough gas... ideas? might need to start a new thread . I am going to investigate tomorrow... thanks again for everyones help

Thanks well do I got the FSM but figured it would not cover alternator upgrade. Iam 90% sure i have an external VR in the car and on the new alternator. but if I by pass the old one in the car and the alternator does NOT have one what then can I damage anything or will I just blow the inline fuse ? thanks again

I am sorry it is a 75. It looks like I have an external vr attached to the newer alternator . There also is an external vr that is stock . After 5 mins of run time I am getting less than 12v at the battery and alternator

Where I you located ? I am in black Mountain did you have you have your tank done at Tommys? I think I saw it there . I had to go twice because they did not get all the rust out from between the bafels. Ya my gas was green for a bit after . I kind of had a time with them they ended up putting in a new vent tube which they thought was the pick up.

I bet in is the residue my tank was blue and my gas was green when I had it fixed at the radiator shop just for short time ...

The battery goes dead after running for 10 mins then no start up no fuel pump etc. The battery and alternator were tested good. I was going to connect the number 1 and 5 wires and the #2 and 3 as stated with the instructions on the alternator upgrade . But yes something is not working it will drop to 10 and so on until it is dead after about 10 mins .

1st of thanks for the help on my fuel problems. Now I only have 12 amps or less. I have the battery and alternator tested both are good. The alternator had been replaced at one time. I think i found it on advanced auto website it is listed as having a voltage regulator included but external and it is listed as 60 amps. Leaves me to believe it is the newer type. I think I am still running the old external VR. Would running two VRs cause my problems ?. How can I tell if the new alternator has a VR ? should I go ahead with the conversion as shown in this forum ? thanks Dan

You guys are right after filling and draining twice I still have a butt load of rust coming out . Gas tank is going into the shop next week. thanks DC

Or can I poke a hole through the pick up and add a inline filter ?

&% 280z the P.O. dropped the tank about 4 years ago and coated it . I have now flushed the tank out with gas until no bits of rust . I blew air through the pick up and filled it back up. Runs great for about 5-10 mins until the pick up screen gets clogged again. From the pictures I have seen the pick up sits in a tin can and I cannot clean out the can without taking the tank off and turning it upside down . So is there any way of screwing on a nipple to the drain bolt hole and using it as the pick up and blocking off the pick up ? Would this work ?

the switch post melted because it touch the spring switch on the afm and arced it causing it to get hot and spark. i think that may have weaken it . after bending it many times to get it to work the tip of the fuel pump control switch broke off. so ... i now have the conntact points zipped tied together so that the fuel pump runs with the key in the on postion. 1. is this ok? 2 can i replace parts inthe afm if so where do i get them or do i need to replace the whole thing ... thanks dan

i think it melted because the wires on the fuel pump were disconected i have been monitoring it and no hot yet . i will keep checking...

i got it fixed thanks ... i bent the fuel pump control arm, what was left of it so that it would engage . off for a drive ... thanks again..

you are about right . i closed the amf switch by wedgeing a piece of rubber hose behind it . i dont think the contact was all that great so it arced at the switch and melted the top of the switch. itried several times to bend the switch in order to make contact but it did not work . so wedged something behind it. now i need to try to attach a piece of copper strip to whats left of the afm fuel pump contact switch. can you buy the little control box that is on the side of the afm without buying the whole afm? thanks

ok the problem is in the afm the fuel pump contact point will not make contact after the potentiometer swings . so i tried to wedge it shut . not good. got power at the fuel pump which was disconnected , but it melted the top of the fuel pump contact. there is still some there but not a whole lot . it seems like this would always be abad conection . why is it hot now ?

Man it looks like I am in the right place .. THANKS for the quick replies . I moved the AMF switch but nothing happens at the fuel pump, but it does move when i start the car . I will check for power at the realy next I begining to think that there is the problem. I kind of like the idea of running a wire from the defrost (temporary) just to raise my spirits and go for a drive. I assume this would be safe > I down loaded the EFI manual and it points to the connection on the AMF switch that turns on the fuel pump. it looks like it is working and is clean . thanks again you all have been a big help DC

I am a newbie for sure and have 75' 280z bought it with no keys. Heres what I did first I got the key codes from the glove box. (iwas luck they were there) went to the locksmith got them made. they fit the doors not the ignition. I then took the ignition out (screws on the back of it seperate the lock and tumbler) it has 4 screws holding the key tumbler on one is a saftey screw with no head. I took a dremel tool and cut a slit into that one . it came out with a slotted screw driver . took the locking part out to a lock smith they made a new key . It maybe easier for you to do the above ... not sure . PS you can drive it after the tumbler is out just use a screw driver to turn the tumbler ..

1975 280, I had it running great for about an hour after sitting for 3 years , Problem much like the other post. I have no power at the fuel pump . I can the fuel pump directly to a battery and it pumps. I can start the car for about 15 seconds before it dies . I opened the FSM black side box and the switch is moving when i start the engine . Any ideas ? any way to test the big relay? something is preventing the fuel pump from getting power.. Can I bypass that big relay by putting a new one between the ignition power and the fuel pump? thanks a new car I would like to drive some more Dan in NC