M3333hp

View Advert Tires for 1970 240Z wanted Source for a set of 4 tires for a 1970 240Z wanted. Japanese brand preferred. Advertiser M3333hp Date 01/14/2020 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z

Sorry to throw cold water on this idea, but the Ferrari 328 is a mid-engine design with the engine set 90 degrees relative to the front / rear centerline of the car. You would need to totally reengineer the placement in the engine bay. That would be hard enough, but what are you going to do for a transmission? In the Ferrari 328 the transmission is set beside the engine, behind the cockpit. It would be easier and better in every way to just save your money up for a 328. They are not expensive, as Ferraris go, and would handle, go, stop better too.

View Advert Emissions air hoses wanted for 240Z For a 240Z I need the 2 long air hoses that connect 1) from the back of the air filter housing to the emissions air pump, and 2) from the emissions air pump to the emissions devices that are mounted on the top of the engine. I do not need the very short emissions hoses that go on top of the engine. The hoses I need are numbers 9 and 10 in the attached diagram. Text me at 250-734-3811. Photo appreciated. Advertiser M3333hp Date 12/02/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z

View Advert Wanted: 240Z original resonator + connector pipe WTB or source for: stock 240Z resonator & attached pipe to the rear muffler Prefer new but will consider good used. This is the exhaust part that connects the stock exhaust downpipe to the stock rear muffler. I need a stock part. Cannot use 2 1/2 inch, stainless steel, or other aftermarket exhaust parts. Please send photo of what you have I will pay for the shipping Advertiser M3333hp Date 10/29/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z

View Advert early 240Z coil bracket (only) wanted I need an early 240Z coil bracket only, like the one in the photo. ** I do not need the coil.** It needs to look like the one in the photo and be zinc plated, not yellow chromated. I cannot use the later style coil bracket. If the zinc isn't perfect that's OK, but I would prefer a bracket without much rust. Will pay shipping. If you can't / won't ship to Canada I can give you a US address to ship to. Text me at: 250-734-3811 Thanks! Advertiser M3333hp Date 10/29/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z

zspert, Understood. Pete

zspert Do you still have those exhaust parts for the 240Z cars? Are they for sale? Not sure whether we can exchange phone numbers, but if yes please reply with your number and I will call you. Thanks! Pete M3333hp

What you want is an early Euro or Canadian balance tube, the one without all the bosses for mounting emissions equipment on. I had a Canadian car, 03778, that had the Euro balance tube, as all the early Canadian cars did. I would guess that maybe the Japanese Fairlady cars had that kind of balance tube also. I had a spare Euro balance tube that I got from the UK a few years ago but sold it. I would try placing want ad notices in those countries. You need persistence and patience. They are very in No America.

I would call the air scoop on the early backing plate an air scoop instead of a baffle. Both early Z cars that I have owned had a scoop on the front brake backing plates. The attached photo shows a front brake of a very early car that I am restoring with a scoop on the backing plate. There are some 240Zs coming out of the woodwork, and in some cases, dirt or mud, now that values have gone way up for the early cars. You might get someone to part with early backing plates of you contact sellers of those early cars. But be aware that the hub and brake disc will have to come off first, and then the (maybe) rusted bolts that hold the backing plate on, before the backing plate can be removed.

Sorry to see how rusty and beat up the car is, especially since it's an early car. The moral we all need to keep in mind: Get someone to look the car over directly. Post the request on here if you don't know anyone nearby. Otherwise, assume the worst.

And now for something completely different.... Looks like the real thing, pretty amazing. Not sure you could do much with it other than display or track it. To the seller's credit he does not make claims for the car beyond that. If a buyer goes that route, the car should be the terror of any Z car track meet it shows up at.

For what its worth to the sceptics, early today I emailed the seller and received a thoughtful reply saying that he listed the car at $3900 and isn't going to raise the price because he needs it sold. For the sceptics, I would guess there might just be someone in the greater Boston area, population 10 million or so, who reads this site who could go to Belmont, MA and see if the car exists and talk to the seller. You might just get a good car cheap.... As for myself, I think the car exists and I would buy it if I were anywhere near the Greater Boston area. Your view might differ …

WAY too cheap. 240Z values have risen significantly, and if your car is solid, with little or no rust, it is worth much more than you are asking. You could do yourself a favor by doing the following: 1) change the asking price to 'best offer', and also change your CL ad the same way 2) have a look at auction results on BaT (bringatrailer.com), where a variety of 240Z cars have been auctioned off in the last couple of years. Pay close attention to the cars that have sold in the last year. That will give you an idea of current values. 3) add many more photos, including engine bay, underside, floors, rocker panels, hatch area floor, document the low miles with photos of service records of you have them etc. Best wishes for your sale.

View Advert Inner door sill vinyl trim wanted for '70 240Z Wanted: for 240Z a pair (L & R) of inner door sill vinyl trims, in black only. This is the vinyl trim that's attached to the inner door opening sills. They are attached to the body sills, right beside the seats. Attached is a photo of some aftermarket vinyl trims, but I would prefer to get a pair (L & R) of original vinyl trims. These usually come off easily with a hair dryer or a heat gun set to low heat. Prefer a L and R set in excellent condition, but will consider a good single, maybe with small glitches, if you have one. Glad to add your cost to ship to the payment. Advertiser M3333hp Date 07/01/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1970 Model 240Z

I tried to figure out the VIN, which isn't clear and has at least one obvious error in it. If it's HLS30-113XX then it's not a 1970 M.Y. as claimed. Anyone have any ideas what the VIN is from the seller's less than clear info in the ad? If it's a San Diego car and only has patches in the floors and no big problems this could be a really good buy for someone who wants an early Z car to drive. The floors could always be replaced later if the owner wants. Well done patches in otherwise solid original floors would be preferable to me.

This car has been doe sale for a couple of months....on CL in February for example. Looks like a good car, but the paint looks like robin's egg blue. If so, is probably hurting it. It's not an original color, and not an appealing color either.

@87mj You could be right about the cowl drains being clogged. The question is how thin is the firewall metal around the perforation. If the surrounding metal is thin, especially below the perforation, and if you want to keep the stamped pattern of the firewall, then you would need to source part of another good firewall for the fix. If the stamped firewall pattern doesn't matter, then a piece of flat sheet metal will do. But if I were paying up for skilled work on the firewall I would want to source a solid piece of real Z car firewall so the finished area would look right. It depends on whether someone wants to just fill the hole or have it be right for when the car gets sold. If the car is ever offered on BaT, say, there will be viewers who will pick up on a flat firewall, and then probably start to wonder what other shortcuts were take. It depends on what you want the car to be when it's done. @grannyknot Yes we definitely need to see the underside. Anyone who has owned one of these cars, and especially anyone who has restored one, or paid someone to restore one that had damaged or rusted body metal would want to see the underside to know what they were getting into. But so far we have not seen the underside, and from the photos that have been posted so far I have not seen "tell tale signs of a lot of rust evenly distributed all over the car". That seems to me to be a pretty broad / negative statement. Like I said earlier, I don't see any signs of rust on the shelf at the rear of the hatch opening for example, which is often rusty in these 50 year old first-year Z cars. Similarly, from what you can see of the rocker panels, I don't see rust perforation there either. Maybe there is some, but so far I don't see it in the posted pictures. Maybe being a Texas car has saved it, but I have seen way more rusty or butchered cars being offered lately. In my experience I would much rather have an honest, unbutchered early Z car body to work on than so many of the cars that have come out of the woodwork lately.

The new pics show perforation of the firewall adjacent to the top of the battery, which is unusual. Usually what happens is battery acid drips down onto the inner fenderwell right under the battery, and that perforates. But the last pic doesn't show any perforation, which is a big plus. That area can be fixed, but if you want it to look right you need to have someone with an English wheel form new metal to replace the perforated metal under the battery that needs to be cut out, and that takes skill and $$. With this car what needs to be done is to cut out the perforated and thinned firewall area and weld in a new firewall section. If you can get the area that's needed from a donor car that should not be too much trouble. The rest of the pics that Snaponfitz is going to add should show whether the frame rails are OK. If OK then the body shouldn't be too big a job, since some of the areas that often rust, like the narrow horizontal panel at the rear of the hatch opening, isn't rusted, and the rockers look OK from what the pics show. It needs a LF fender and the 2 headlight scoops, plus probably all of the rubber seals. By that time you might as well get it repainted in 918 orange, one of the best first year colors.

The comments above are right on. $10K is too cheap for an early first year car like this. For a look at what these early Z cars are selling for have a look at Bringatrailer.com (BaT) There have been quite a few auctions of these cars in the past few years, especially during the past year. You can get a feel for what these early Z cars are selling for by looking at past auctions on that site. If you go through the comments on BaT of some of the auctions of early cars you can also get a feel for what potential buyers and Z car fans look for in an early Z car, and what you need to do to get your car sold for the right price---what it's worth in today's market. You need to upload a LOT of photos of just about every square inch of the car, including the underside----especially the underside. Get the car up on a lift at a shop, make sure there's enough light, and take a hundred photos of all areas of the underside including the frame rails and the floors. It won't matter how dirty the underside is. What will matter is how much rust there is. From what I can see of this car's frame rails looking down into the engine bay, they look OK. That's a big one---how rusty, or unrusty, the frame rails and the floors are. Don't try to hide anything. The people who haunt BaT know it when something important isn't being shown. You said the engine runs well and the transmission shifts. Try to get a video of the engine running and also the car going down the road----from both inside and outside the car. That gives people a lot of confidence about a car. Do a cold engine start video with the hood open, and also a full walkaround the car with the engine running. Then get a friend to drive the car while you film from the passenger's seat. It doesn't have to be a long or fast drive. You just want to show that the car and the drivetrain are roadworthy. And remember, originality always brings the best price. Don't take anything off the car even if it's old, dirty, cracked, or broken. People pay up for original---and rightly so. The best way to destroy the value of a car like this one is to take original stuff off of it or modify it. The only exception might be if you can source some early wheels to replace those later wheels that are on the car. The best kind to have would be original steel wheels with "D" hubcaps, but those are pretty much unobtanium these days unless you have very deep pockets. The next best would be 1970-72 vintage slotted aluminum "mags". I would offer to buy your car instantly for your asking, but you deserve to get about double that or more for it, depending on how much of that rust that you mentioned is present. Good luck with the sale!

Hi Z, Thanks SO MUCH for finding your fuel rail. I'll take it. The small difference in one of the brackets doesn't matter. And I see you are in Calgary---excellent! I'm in BC, on The Island, postal code V9P 9J2. If you could figure the cost of shipping and a strong box, or maybe even double boxes, one inside the other if you can find them, of course I'll cover those costs too. You can text me at 250-734-3811 or email me at: cain@uwo.ca Thanks again! Pete

Hello all. I need a fuel distribution rail for an early 240Z. It needs to be the early type that has a block at the end nearest to the firewall >>>See the illustration below for the type that I need. I can't use the type that has a 180 degree turn in the tubing at the firewall end. You can text a picture to me at 250-734-3811. Thanks! Pete

Mike, I received the firewall material -- Thanks! It's just what I need to fix my firewall material. Look for an envelope in the mail soon ….. Pete

https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/wto/d/bellevue-datsun-240z-280z-stock-oem/6792822848.html Three TOPY steel wheels dated 1971 Two TOPY steel wheels dated 1976 In Bellevue, WA These are rare, most were scrapped. I have no financial interest in these, just want to alert anyone who needs them for a restoration.

https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/d/north-manchester-1973-datsun-240z/6789955618.html Yes it's a '73, but looks to be original and has been in the same family since '94. About 45K miles. Green, with one repaint. Yes it has the flat tops, but well worth a look.

hiyabrad, I was able to get the thickness of the disks I have measured, and they are right at the wear limit , so if they were turned they would be even thinner than the wear limit. They are not going to work for you. Sorry about that.