NCdatsunZ

Yes new fuel pump. A bunch of other new parts as well.

I went out and bought a timing light and set it. Also I pulled the plugs and they're a little dark. It took me about 4 tries to get the float levels right using the clear fuel tube method so I don't know how it could be the float levels.

Did some tinkering today and found that no matter what I did I couldn't get the front carburetor to suck nearly as much air as the back carburetor. Just some more bit of info for you guys. I uplugged the coil and the fuel line to each car and cranked it for 20 seconds or so again and found that the front carb did not have a steady flow of fuel whereas the back carb did.

The car sat for a number of years before the carburetor rebuild. I had the gas tank boiled out and sealed professionally and double checked to make sure that none of the lines were clogged (return line and vent lines). I blew out all the gas lines. New filters, coil, distributor cap, points, coil, spark plugs, wires, etc.

Well I tuned the carburetors to the best of my ability, rolled it down the driveway (slight incline) and attempted to drive back up the driveway and had to rev it up and dump the clutch constantly to get it back up.

The plugs are clean. I was thinking the timing is the likely culprit because I don't have a timing light.

I have a 1972 240z with round tops. I rebuilt the carbs with the Ztherapy kit. I got the car warmed up and tuned them as best I could but when I went to drive the car, it struggled to move along. The car revs up fine while in neutral. I tried messing with the timing and it did nothing to help. I checked the vacuum advance in the distributor and it appeared to be functioning properly. The spark plugs are new. I pulled the fuel lines that go from the fuel rail to each carburetor and cranked it for 20 seconds or so and they both flowed well and the gas was clean. The float levels have been set properly. I took the return fuel line of and blew air through it and i could hear it bubble towards the back of the car, I'm not sure how easy it should be to blow air through the line but it seemed ok. Any help would be much appreciated. This car is driving me crazy :ogre:

Thank you so much. It works fine now!!!

Hi, I've got a 1972 240z that I've been refreshing and I decided to change the alternator. I bought a duralast alternator from autozone and am having trouble with the wiring. Installed the alternator and messed up the wiring somehow. after rewiring it I reconnected the battery and the fusible link burned up. I've got a new one from MSA and want to make sure my wiring is correct before I burn it up as well. I have used the search function but couldn't find anything clear enough. I also looked the the FSM and couldn't make heads or tails of the wiring diagrams. I am a complete electrical noob and would appreciate some help. Here are a few pictures of what I'm working with.

Wow so many responses so quickly. I think I am going to replace all of them, with exception to the TC rod bushings. I have two reasons for this. Number one being the frustrating nature of the job. Number two being that I'd like to replace the struts and springs as well. When that time comes around, I will decide whether to do it myself or have somebody else do it. For now I'm replacing the alternator and voltage regulator while waiting on the insurance companies to get back to me. Then my Z will be on the road!

I've got the FSM for my year Z as well as a haynes manual. I'd consider myself somewhat mechanically adept. I'm not really concerned about the ride. What I am concerned is safety. I don't like the idea of riding around with the bushings as bad as they are. There is also some play in the steering which I hope to eliminate. Is there a master rubber bushing kit available anywhere?

Hi I've been refreshing a 1972 240z and want to replace some worn bushings. All of the bushings in my Z have pretty much had it. For instance, If I wiggle the front sway bar it will move about a half inch back and forth. I want to replace all of them with Urethane bushings, but I have a few questions. 1. How hard is the job? Refreshing this Z is the first car project I have ever done and I don't want to end up damaging the car. 2. Is there any special tools (read: expensive) required for doing the job? 3. Does the job require more than one person to do? 4. Is the MSA master urethane bushing kit the best kit? Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Today I replaced a water pump that had a bad bearing and did some engine degreasing. I also fashioned spacer so that my shorter battery would fit with the stock battery hold down tray. My Z purrs like never before!!!

There is absolutely no bolt showing and it's not leaking so I'm going to just leave it there for now. Later on down the road I will probably pull it out. At this point I'm in "get it on the road" mode so I'm not too worried about it right now.

Brevard, about an 45 minutes to an hour south of Asheville.

Ok sweet guys thanks a lot!

Hi I've got a 72 240z and I've lost a bag of bolts somewhere so I'm going to have to replace them. What size are the bolts that attach the cowl to the body of the car? Thanks Will

Drove my Z for the first time ever!!!

Ok Should I just plug it up?

Possibly. I'll see if I can upload one later today. Yes, is that bad?

I think I need to break out the multimeter and check the battery while the car is running. Also the alternator. I think I know somebody with a uni-syn tool that I could borrow as well. Tomorrow I will post the results of those tests.

Another shot in the dark. I'm using ATF in the carburetors. I checked to make sure the amounts of ATF in the bells was correct, and they were. Would using ATF rather than 20wt oil cause this problem? Just another shot in the dark.

Yes this is how I had them connected before I took the spark plugs out.

Be glad to. In this picture I'm holding the number 1 plug wire. Going counterclockwise the order on my distributor is 1 5 3 6 2 4. The spark plugs are still out as I was checking them earlier tonight. but the number 6 plug wire goes towards the cylinder that is closest to the firewall. Correct? edit: forgot to add the picture haha

Here you go. I'd be glad to take more pictures from whatever angles if it helps anyone. Just some shots in the dark here: Could the problem be because of timing chain stretch? Just out of curiosity, what do the different numbers mean in the compression test results? Is it due to improper valve adjustment?