JayZ12

Oops my severe typo — I have a 76 tank, sender unit and the engine converted to EFI so I meant to ask about a 280Z gauge (not 260). But nevertheless thank you for the very thoughtful analysis most of which probably still applies. Will need to check where loads are relative to gauge. And when you say “try again to adjust the [fuel] gauge” do you mean one of the two pots on the back of the gauge, which pot and how hard should I attempt to crank it for I can’t afford to break the gauge! And after some browsing, I found this image of the back of the gauge. The two holes circled have slots visible, but when I attempted to turn them there was severe resistance so I backed off. I also found this image which I assume depicts the slots visible in the holes, so there doesn’t seem much play here…

Could not adjust the gauge. Either the pot screw was seized or locked and I didn’t want to force it. So let me ask this. Again, my Z is a 72 model but has a custom setup including fuel injection and an ECU, so I have a 76 fuel tank (and sender unit) and upgraded alternator with solid state voltage regulator from Motorsport. I believe these factors render both the AMP and FUEL gauges inaccurate — the amp gauge regularly shows around +15A while running and the fuel gauge shows only 3/4 with a full tank of gas. The question is would a 280Z AMP/FUEL gauge show more accurate measurements, and would it fit in my dash as a replacement?

Can anyone give more detils on these adjustment pots? I removed the center controls face and removed the gauge and tried turning the pots with a flat blade screwdriver but they don’t budge and I don’t want to force them. Appears a substance was possibly applied to lock them in place.

For the record, I just replaced my old stock fuel pump with a brand new one — Nissan OE for 76 280Z and also beefed up the noise/vibration suppression. The results are simply amazing. The new pump is virtually silent. The old pump functioned normally but must’ve been on its last legs. Thanks for the tips.

Must report I just completed this project of replacing my fuel pump with a new original stock one, with increased noise/vibration dampening, and the results are amazing! The new pump is virtually silent. Thanks again for the tips. Winning!

Excellent read and very helpful. Thanks! I’m going to replace the pump with a new one and implement these cushioning suggestions.

Stock 280Z owners — how noisy is your fuel pump? Can you hear it spin up when you turn on the ignition? Constant running sound while driving? Annoying?

Now I feel like, duh! Should’ve known that.

Makes sense. Almost certain there is no corrosion as I remember the connectors being very clean and this is a CA/UT car, but worth checking. Thanks.

Good tip. The car is in storage for the winter but will try that next Spring. Thanks.

I have a '72 240Z with a Rebello engine, TWM EFI/etc, and a '76 fuel tank and pump. But the fuel gauge (not unexpectedly) doesn't show accurate fuel levels. That is the gauge indicates less fuel than actual, and never points higher than about 3/4 with an actual full tank of gas. Short of replacing the gauge with a '76, might there be an electrical component I could install to correct the signal sent from the sender unit to the gauge?

Thank you Zed Head for the thoughtful replies and details. The car is in storage for the winter so I will tackle this after things warm up next Spring.

Thank you, I found this label and others I needed at zeddsaver

No restrictions, fuel pressure is normal and steady. Thanks for the tip. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk