getrdone

If you get a chance, take some pics. I'm going to have to do the same thing with my back window shortly. Not really looking forward to the whole ordeal. Thanks.

The money they are worth also has to do with the width of the rims. It is getting harder to find 7 inch wide slotted mags. the ones in the pic look like 6's. I bought some on ebay a month ago for 198.00 us. Paid more than I would have liked to ,but I'm trying to get this car done. They also had nice center caps. I would imagine 175 to 225 would be a reasonable expectation

I think that 8.0mm is correct, but I couldn't find that size the day that my engine was spraying me in the face with gas. Wound up using 7.0 mm from the closest autopart store without any probs.

I'm thinking of doing the same thing with the Tokico's. The price is right and my car seems to ride a little too high with the front and rear bumpers removed and fiberglass ones installed. Had new struts installed before I started the resto and the car now looks like it's a 4x4.

I was reading that Tokico's lower a z about an inch. If this is true, are strut spacers needed for correct suspension geometry. I know neg camber within reason is usually a good thing, but I think it was a Jim Cook catalog that talked about chaning the z's roll center being counterproductive

Chip Foose from the dark side

sorry, picture went missing

Anyone know who makes this wheel. Recent pic from MSA show(attached)

It ranks up there with that "classic" from corvette summer

a starting point might be to put a meter on the car with engine running and nothing else turned on. Then load the sytem up with lights and radio etc. See if the voltage drops off significantly. Possibly a voltage regulator prob. Should probably be in ballpark of 13.8 volts if it is ok.

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best of luck to you with your z car search. There are alot of z's in your price range. So if this one doesnt work out no big loss.

some people are trying to build a concours car. It is all about expectations and what you are prepared to pay for something. A 17 year old just might think that hood pins would look good on an old z. Who knows. It may be a solid car to rebuild who knows. For the asking price it is possible to do much worse. I a gree that you buy the best car that you can for the money. Just plain cheaper to restore and drive.

I wouldn't get wrapped around the axel over the hood. That is exactly what an unlatched hood looks like. So it may be fine just unusual Worry about the big stuff and if you like the car. That price probably isn't far off. If you plan on painting the car if you buy it, picking up another hood and the correct latches is not that difficult

How much does the owner want for it and what are your expectations for the car. If it has little or no rust you might be able to overlook a few imperfections. I would not worry much about things that you can easily fix. Check for rust on or near the battery tray, the spare tire and door sils underneath trim. If you are unfamiliar, carbs can be a pain to rebuild and set up. My 2cents.

74 260 new tie rod ends and rack mounting bushings but still a reasonable amount of play in steering. rubber coupling seems ok. Has anyone had luck with tightening the retainer adjusting nut on the rack itself. Any suggestions to remove play or "dead zone" from steering? Thanks

yea and i can replace the flywheel too, but was wondering if anyone else had this problem. Bendix has normal wear and appears to be fine.. thanks

got a 74 260 auto and the starter is eating the flywheel. Doesnt seem to be a way to shim the starter or adjust how its wearing the flywheel down. Anybody have any ideas?