GRLS30-001855

Thanks for the replies, I really do appreciate them. The rear spoiler was from Motorsport Auto along with the side and rear skirt. Mike

After almost 3 years of blood, sweat and tears, the Z is complete ( well 95% it will never be 100%). There is a ton of pictures from start until now. I know most will like and some will pick this apart, so be it. This is my first shot at a restoration and I am very pleased with the results. I am not afraid of comments and welcome them. I do want to thank CZCC and the members for all the information that I have "borrowed" to make this car "better" and will continue to use. I would like to give a special thank you to Mystic Autobody for the paint/ body work and Marks Custom Interiors for installation of headliner, seats and carpet. I also would like to give a big thumbs up to Motorsport auto, zcarsource, and Oliver at Zspecialties (custom 2+2 floor pans) for all the parts I needed. Quick history of car: My father purchased this used in 1975 ( he had to have the 2+2 ( 3 kids)), drove it until 1982 when he got into an accident with it, sent it to body shop in 1982 where it sat in the garage until he received call in 2012 asking if he wanted the car back, I picked up the car and started the rustoration. Hope you all enjoy these as much as I do. Mike https://goo.gl/photos/V8tJ7gMZmtjh7qUu9

I know the topic is old but thanks for the info.

This is the controller I used and am very happy with. Straight forward installation. HPC Electronic Radiator Fan Controller Control Module with Sensor 102001 | eBay

Just unplug the E12-05 from the harness. It is just about that simple. Yours is definitely doing what mine was. Hope this helps.

I installed the Crane XR-3000 and PS-91 yesterday and she fired right up. I am very happy. Install was pretty straight forward. I could have used my Pertronix 1.5 ohm coil, but decided to make the install manufacturer specific. My tach is still not working ( didn't operate before this install) so I will have to trace that out. Thanks again for the help, Mike

Captain, here is a quote from HybridZ on the vacuum advance "solution" they came up with. Ducer, on 16 Mar 2012 - 4:01 PM, said: Additional zx dizzy modificatio. Retarding the vacuum adcance. So after experiencing the massive zx vacuum advance and curve i pondered about a solution and i got one. As an aquarium hobbiest i found that using an adjustable air valve is a simple way to reduce the suction and thus limiting the zx dizzy's diaphram operation. So i went on ebay and purchased a nice chrome $3 dollar air valve. After setting the base timing at 7 degrees and playing with the air valve ive managed to get the advance to be at 20-25 degrees at full load. Without this limitation it would be over 30 degrees at full load. With this simple valve you can set your base timing higher to 10-15 degrees and you can lower the advance under load. In addition you can diable or enable the vacuum advance with a turn of the knob. I highly recommend doing this instead of plugging off the vac advance. Its like a simple manual vacuum contol. And it works awesome and looks cool. NO need to fiddle with the distributor plates and complicated process to reduce the vacucum advance. Enjoy fea84b29.jpg

Zed, The manual said to test the transistor box on the Datsun transistor box tester. Kind of funny. I have ordered the crane xr-3000 and Ps-91.. When all completed and running(fingers crossed) I will come back and let everyone know what/how completed. Thanks to all again, Mike

Check 123ignitionusa.com

Thanks for the replys. I have to try a few suggestions this weekend. Then I will make my decision. Madcaw, I will let you know. Thanks again. Mike

I have an early 74 260z 2+2 with factory E12-05 transistor ignition and stock electronic dizzy. Car was starting up and idling fine 2 weeks ago. Last week went to start car and it fired once then nothing (no spark). After testing the coil (pertronix flame thrower 1.5 ohm rating (1.1 ohm primary and 8.99 kohm secondary as tested)), pick up coil in dizzy 6.99 kohm at plug and to transistor box, and ohm'd wires from transistor box and all seems ok. . Then I noticed that I would get a weak spark when the key was turned to start , nothing while cranking ( would get a weak spark once in a while), then would spark when key was released back to on position. Me and my buddy have spent several hours trying different things, Which leads me to believe the transistor box is bad. I have no way of checking the box. This was my fathers car and he had told me he changed the E12-05 at least on two occasions while he owned the car from 1976 to 1982. I have searched this and several other forums and there are so many different ways o go about this it makes my head spin. So after all this I am looking for a reliable ignition system. I am not into keeping the car stock If there is a better item I am all for it. My thoughts are: 1) crane xr-3000 with ps-91 coil (motorsport auto recommendation) This is my choice as of now. 2) msd 6al (expensive) 3) 280zx distributor E12-80 module (30 y.o technology) 4) pertronix ignition unit ( would I need a 240z dizzy) I have not seen a lot of feedback on the xr-3000 Any Help is appreciated Thanks Mike

Pm sent

I have been "lurking" on here for almost a year, after doing research for a header/exhaust on this forum I ran across a post that said there was a discount code for MSA. After following the directions given I placed my order and yes there is a discount (approx. 10%). I have ordered parts in the past from MSA but didn't know or ask for a discount, shame on me. Better late than never. On a side note, if any Vendors read this put in your Bio that there are club discounts, you may gain more business that way. Thanks Again CZCC, Mike