bryantatem

I have the Tokiko adjustible struts and springs on my 72 and stock on my 71. DAY AND NIGHT. Worth every penny.

1. New distributer VS new pickups = new has new bearings whereas replacing pickups on an old dizzy can give wobble. The Zeds are notorious for wobble. 2. MSA is cheaper for that fact, it replaces points on the existing... 3. I would replace / upgrade the coil. Not much cost, no electrical loss... remember the car is around 30 years old. 4. If your stock wires are good (no cracks or electrical loss) they should hold up fine unless you get soem kind of radical coil. This is a good upgrade that will also give you reliability and a better drive. Also, for the gain and benefit, the cost is not too bad.

regulator??? I would start there...

I am in Cleburne , Texas (south west of Fort Worth) and I am 31. I have a 1971 (late) and a 1972 240Z. The 72 will be an autocross car while I am trying to get the 71 into a daily driver/ show car.

Paint is one of those things... You get what you pay for. Easy comparison, go to MAACO and lok at a AFTER example of what they just painted and look at the other guy's work. The quality will be there. I always want to see someone else's car after it is done before I get the same done to mine.

I have had a few exhaust systems that I have had to pull the exhaust, and some that I could just leave alone. It is jsut how the header is made and how the pipes are laid out. Good luck!!!

It should interchange. The really good part about that early 71 is it is adjustable where as the later ones are not. Make sure you usr the clutch fork from your origional 4 speed (it has a hole in it for the adjuster) This will give you the ability to adjust your clutch.

VERY IMPRESSIVE!!! Great job on the car (and the site too)

Well, mine is a early 72 and it WAS an auto... NO BADGE. Origional hatch. I bought it from the origional owner.

I would go Centerforce again and again. The extra money you spend there will pay for itself in the length that that clutch will live vs a stock one. And the performance difference... WOW!!! You'll like it.

I would bet on a dealer nameplate...

That is the way they are susposed to be. Make sure there are no vacuum leaks in them.

7MGTE is a Toyota Supra Turbo engine from a MK III.

You just unscrew the louvers and then it will come off. The mounts are kinda just shoved under the weatherstripping. You can just pull it out. Use water and some dish soap as a lubricant and it will slide out easier.

a CAT converter is NOT required on a 71. It did not come on it when it came out from factory.

This might sound stupid, but do you have the firing order correct??

Well, it does take a lot of extra time to have it boxed. You know it is really hard to do. And boxes are so expensive too.

You can get started wherever you need the most help. There are a LOT of good people here. Just tell us what you are needing, or give what you can offer.

If it is a standard, just put it in neutural. If it is an auto you have to remove the driveshaft. Also, the only onter problem I have found is make sure the rockers clear the drive on ramps. This has been a problem for me in the past. The dollie I use now has removeable ramps and U Haul's are good. (And pull nice too)

Yes, nail polish works REALLY good. Nice fine brush and a good selection of colors too. Really nice for trim and interior stuff.

Instead of going that way, get a oil cooler. That will help you more.

I found that the bracket for the pedals worked fime for me . All I had to do is unbolt the old auto brake pedal and bolt in the new pedals. WORKED FINE IN MY 72

Well, it is not too hard to do actually, just a pain in the arse. PARTS LIST: Transmission Manual starter Clutch kit (I suggest a Centerforce) MSA sells them Pedals - both the brake and clutch (I have a set) Flywheel with bolts (I have that too) Clutch Master Cylinder (bolts right in) Slave cylinder rubber line to slave cylinder medal hydraulic line pilot bushing for the crankshaft (autos did not get one) I do not know if the driveshaft is interchangeable??? Also the rubber boot for the shifter and actually the center console is different, but I just made me a custom outer shifter boot. Works great and is a BUNCH cheaper than a new console. That is most of it from the top of my head. Let me know if you need any more help. Also I am in San Antonio (not too far from you) if you need visual help.

Well, the dash mat like the one you'd find at a nice place like Pep oys is a scrap of carpet that will be glued or velcro ed to your cracked dash. The dash covers from like MSA is a piece of plastic that actually covers the dash to make it look like a factory dash.

It might work, it might not. It might hold. it might not. Just depends on MANY factors. The way I look at stuff like that is: -How much does it cost to fix it right? -Will it take longer to fix it once right or many times to patch it up? -Will it cost me more in the long run? (both in time and money) AND THE BIG QUESTION -Will it F%$# something else up that costs a lot more money?? (like the entire engine)