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So how the doors shut with those seals ? Be honest, do you need to slam, or a modest slam, or easy close like modern doors ?

Okay then it was two piece.... Well I solved that problem with mine, it closes as easy as a mercedes benz, so no problems with that. The problem with most immitation seals is that today's rubber that is used is to stiff for compression.

If your Z is early 71, cause i think so seeing your vin, you originally had the early insulator, those are different, but not obtainable anymore. I made a topic on that once. The later model was changed, because vibrations the differential was moved a little forward i believe it was

I have small inner pullers for this stuff , works great. just add some heat first before pulling

Any one knows the stock et value?

What is the stock ET value for 240Z steel wheels? Does anyone know

I dont like those Mart. I will ask around. I can find some vintage 14 inch wheels on the internet used. But big chance these are warped to. My wheels are Fenton Gyros... I googled and found not so nice things about them 🤐 Dunlop T-E Lemans 24 wheels 14x6 et10 4x114.3 | eBay I really love these, but so hard to find. He lives in NL but only has 2. There are also replica z432 but I believe these are not approved for safety DOT

Guys... Does anyone know where to get vintage mag wheel replicas? I bought fenton mags from somebody years ago they where warped, i brought them to a wheel shop to get straightened. I recently put new tires but sadly they are still warped from the heart out, i saw it on the balancer. There was always a little vibration in the steering wheel and car and its now time to deal this.. i don't drive long distances but its time to get new wheels and deal with this. For my mustang i bought American racing wheels, and they have that vintage look... I want to keep the same for the Datsun. Any advice on wheels 14 inch? I would prefer 14 so i can keep the new tires and the vintage look

pretty sure the original was not a 2 piece design, cause I took the original one out of the car that time. I allready had a rubber kit in that time with those replica door seals that where to hard, couldn't shut the door, so I went looking for a replacement

I found these at an industrial supplier years back for 25-30 euros on a roll when I took a piece of my original door seals with me , looke the same like original. I sold one to a member on a forum here a few years ago. I still must have the drawing somewhere of it. Because the aftermarket ones where crap indeed the slamming.. This is not just a Datsun thing, many classic cars in those days used moos rubber. ( middle one in the picture )

Mart I believe we are coming to a point now, that restoring cars from the 60/70's becomes so expensive, its easier to buy a restored one almost. Currently we are doing the 67 chevelle ss , 2 worn outs seats 1000 usd, 1 door panel 600, prices are going crazy, to when these cars where just 35-40 years old... I also start to see a trend where 60\70s classics are not for the " common man " anymore....

I see some things that I am not a fan off, but overal great restoration. Prob ends up in some garage never to be seen on the road again. I personally like to drive my classics, even if it's a 1932 Packard... The wheel wells and underside is correct for collectors, but I wouldn't do it myself, if I drive that here even in summer, rust would be pretty quick... I use tectyl on all my classic car restorations.

Same here, maybe 50k was a low estimate. But if you can do a lot yourself this saves a LOT, Painting is getting more expensive by the year to. It's crazy the prices they ask the paint shops. Last year I did my 70 mustang with a paint shop I know, they charged me 4500 EURO. Other shops asked between 6500-9k

More like 50k EURO here to restore that. Part in the US are a bit cheaper still.

Could be Mart haha, anyhow, no bitumen wouldn't work here, it would be rusted away quicker then I can restore lol