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@Captain Obvious yeah it's a very good tool, although I had to make a small adapter underneath to make it work with the stock pedestal mount. LSM makes them.

Actually it's tomorrow the 26th February, but I held it yesterday.

Got this for my birthday, pretty cool haha.

It's a must on a period correct restoration I think.. You can't have a late 72, 73 ( 73 only ? ) with round tops...

Currently no updates on the Z since it's still in winter sleep . When I take it out again it needs APK ( 2 yearly technical condition check from goverment for all motorvehicles ). Also then will give it some new oil and filter and the valves need adjustement. I'm planning on rebuilding the 4 speed in the future, since it has never had a rebuild since it came out of the factory, and I do feel slight vibration into the shifter and in the steering wheel I think the gearbox has something to do with this, since I eliminated everything else. Does anyone have a good adress for this here in West Europe ? Or The Netherlands ? Also good news from the RDW here ( Goverment Vehicle Departement ): currently the APK rules no longer apply for vehicles before 1 januari 1960, but in 1 or 2 years this will be changed to 50 years and older ( 50 years barrrier moves with time.. ). So this means my Z and the Mustang who are near 50 years old will no longer need that 2 yearly road check. It's a big relief for other classic car owners aswell I think... Another update: The Mustang is done, and I'm waiting for spring to arrive to give it also APK and get it on the road, then I can start adjusting the ignition and carburetor. I also installed a 12v vacuum pump + Canister to assist the brakes, since the engine wasn't pulling enough vacuum ( familiar problem with big cams ) to operate the booster. Also did a rebuild on the floor shifter, feels solid again :) . When I was breaking in the new cam ( had to replace valve springs afterwards for the stiffer ones from the camshaft kit ), I heard the drivers side exhaust leaking. Was a pain in the arse to take it off, but eventually got there, and found the header flange was missing some material on the number 8 exhaust port for sealing. So I welded it up and leveled the flange again, put new thicker gasket in between and now it's sealed thankfully. Also better copper gaskets between the headers and exhaust, This build was a pain ( took about 2 years from engine out, sourcing parts in the US and back in ), since space is so tight on everything, compared to the Z's engine bay space, this thing is a hell to work on ! During the cam break in, I noticed dash gauges not working, eventually took the whole god damn dash out to eventually find with a multimeter it was just a bad contact in a connector I could acces near the gas pedal lol. To bad for American Autowire quality ?! WTF no water proof connectors ?! Here's some pictures ( video will follow later, having some troubles uploading )

Hi Kats, Yeah I think it's best to restore it, then changing the body, then it would be more of a replica. Then again what is " original " in somebody's eyes ? There's a Mustang restorer in the village here, and they restored a 68 Shelby, only thing that was there of the body was the VIN plate, and like maybe 15% of the car, the rest is all new sheet metal ?!

Mmm, that's around 45.000 USD they want for it. And seeing the 432 in the first post in this topic has gone for 170k, i'd doubt if you would make any profit restoring this car and selling it.. It's a reasonable price if you keep it for yourself as a long term investement, but for making profit on it, i'd say no.

I'm pretty tall to. Talking about Ferrari's... I can barely fit in my 1970 Mustang with the seat all the way back ( wonder how tall americans where back in the day those little fellas ?! ), the 240Z in that case gives me much more room. It's funny...

this.... and I also get nervous as heck when people decide to use my fender as a chair on car shows

Couldn't that be sad also about the round tops ? Cause many Americans back in the day and even now seem to ditch them for a 4 barrel american downdraft carb + intake...

Love the 2000gt also. But there's a big difference in technology in favor of the S30, namely: Until the 1930s virtually every car had a structural frame, separate from its body. This construction design is known as body-on-frame ( 2000gt ). Over time, nearly all passenger cars have migrated to unibody construction ( S30 ), meaning their chassis and bodywork have been integrated into one another. I find it funny no one ever talks about thi in the whole 2000gt VS S30 debate lol, since the S30 is in fact for it's time it came out was way ahead of it's time ( with many other features on the S30 to ), with the unibody construction, while many US car manufacturers still used the body on frame design...

I put copper grease instead of anti seize, worked fine for me.

Put her into a winter coma last week, see you again in April

LOL, this is typical from back in the day... of not having the knowledge how these Hitachi's work, so just slap on a 4 barrel downdraft :P

Uhmmm no...

Okay... It does suck in modern traffic these days.. datsun looks ' quick " but you can't go faster, because of the damn gearing LOL. It's just missing one more gear ( overdrive ) for modern traffic to come along in higher speeds. I've been considering doing the conversion, but I don't want to go 280zx 5 speed, if I do then it needs to be the Original 5 speed option ( gearbox, driveshaft, diff ) that came on the 240Z.. and let these be pretty damn hard to find, it's all worn out if you can find. ( Excuse my bad English it's not my native language ;) )

That's crazy lol, the car would have much more potential with a good 5 speed ( overdrive ). Although the 4 speed is pretty damn wide ratio, it's lacking in giving the car a proper top speed. I mean okay you can pull it to 190/200 km/h in a sprint and max out the rpm, but for continues driving at high speed it just isn't suitable.. you really need an overdrive here. Offcourse I have to consider back in the day 120 mph was alot

Good question ?

Nice pictures Kats... I feel the biggest mistake is giving the US 240Z a 4 speed, it would have much more potential and top speed with a 5 speed wide ratio gearbox... Everytime I drive my 240Z in the modern traffic around 80 mph and after that the engine is allready making to much rpm to be cruising @ a higher speed... so really missing another extra overdrive gear here :(

I can see your point here, but people who are in the classic car business, would disagree with that... real collectors would want matching numbers Would regular people at a car show care about VIN numbers ? I think you'r right in that part.. NO

I would put this in a museum and leave as is... ( engine and gearbox out ) for future generations. I don't see a point in restoring something with a non matching engine to it.. Cool to say you got 181, but what's the point ?

Carbs are not designed to have an electric pump feeding them ( unless the manufacturer wanted it ). Many people don't seem to understand how carbs work instead of fuel injection these days... Yes the fuel lines need to go from tank directly to the mechanical pump... , remove the electric pump. Don't forget the spacer plate between the block and mechanical pump.. Sorry to say this, but your best bet will to rebuild the carbs to OEM spec, THEN adjust them properly.

Exactly. It depends on where you are though. We can't get redline MT90 here in Europe. But I'm using the classic line from Kroon Oils here, and that's about the same stuff I think. It's formulated for the old post war cars. Never had problems, and my 4 speed hasn't been open since new. There's a slight difficulty going in 2nd gear when cold, but when it's warmed up everythings fine. I'm only using everything from the classic oils line, for my mustang to. I won't put modern oil in these old birds...

More low VIN's will keep popping up I'm sure. Some just haven't been discovered yet.. Back in the day people just parked them or left them in a barn somewhere when repairs got to much and never looked back..