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That's crazy lol, the car would have much more potential with a good 5 speed ( overdrive ). Although the 4 speed is pretty damn wide ratio, it's lacking in giving the car a proper top speed. I mean okay you can pull it to 190/200 km/h in a sprint and max out the rpm, but for continues driving at high speed it just isn't suitable.. you really need an overdrive here. Offcourse I have to consider back in the day 120 mph was alot

Good question ?

Nice pictures Kats... I feel the biggest mistake is giving the US 240Z a 4 speed, it would have much more potential and top speed with a 5 speed wide ratio gearbox... Everytime I drive my 240Z in the modern traffic around 80 mph and after that the engine is allready making to much rpm to be cruising @ a higher speed... so really missing another extra overdrive gear here :(

I can see your point here, but people who are in the classic car business, would disagree with that... real collectors would want matching numbers Would regular people at a car show care about VIN numbers ? I think you'r right in that part.. NO

I would put this in a museum and leave as is... ( engine and gearbox out ) for future generations. I don't see a point in restoring something with a non matching engine to it.. Cool to say you got 181, but what's the point ?

Carbs are not designed to have an electric pump feeding them ( unless the manufacturer wanted it ). Many people don't seem to understand how carbs work instead of fuel injection these days... Yes the fuel lines need to go from tank directly to the mechanical pump... , remove the electric pump. Don't forget the spacer plate between the block and mechanical pump.. Sorry to say this, but your best bet will to rebuild the carbs to OEM spec, THEN adjust them properly.

Exactly. It depends on where you are though. We can't get redline MT90 here in Europe. But I'm using the classic line from Kroon Oils here, and that's about the same stuff I think. It's formulated for the old post war cars. Never had problems, and my 4 speed hasn't been open since new. There's a slight difficulty going in 2nd gear when cold, but when it's warmed up everythings fine. I'm only using everything from the classic oils line, for my mustang to. I won't put modern oil in these old birds...

More low VIN's will keep popping up I'm sure. Some just haven't been discovered yet.. Back in the day people just parked them or left them in a barn somewhere when repairs got to much and never looked back..

Prob more rust, if you have it dipped or soda blasted... you can see what's really left of it :O Yeah to bad the engine is not there..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Datsun-Z-Series-240-Z/292640240059?hash=item4422b7b1bb:g:xc8AAOSwI-dbSRKf&vxp=mtr or search Ebay: datsun 240z , the z cars, the black one 11/69 factory stamp

No, only in summer. But I have a US spec 240Z.. I think it has more to to with the state of the parts/ethanol free fuel though

Yes, seeing those pictures, the state those parts are in ( if that is yours or just an example pic ?! ). Make sure everything is in good condition first. Like 87mj says about the fuel lines make sure the fight tight, and the hoses are black and new, ethanol free fuel helps to. I work with carbs all the time for my work ( bike carbs, but the act the same as SU's.. ), the problems ethanol gas ( although it's still only max 10% here ) can give are huge. Everything in the fuel system from tank to carb, needs to be clean, free flowing, and air tight, or else you will have problems. Do you have the spacer ( isolator ) between the fuel pump ? Mine was missing to with the previous owner, I just noticed it when rebuilding the engine.

Even with 100 degrees, it shouldn't happen. I think this has more to do with a ( proper tune/some parts not functioning correctly/quality of the gasoline ), then so called vapor lock. I've driven my z in 40+ C days ( 105 F ), without any issues. I do only use ethanol free fuel... Vapor Lock is air in the system, there's an underlying problem you need to find.

japan classic sunday 2018

Yes, if you know what your doing, it's not that hard actually. I did mine to like you can see above.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-Datsun-Z-Series/222995305621?hash=item33eb8e5495:g:usAAAOSwLs9bC3L0&vxp=mtr It's a 70 for sure, seems in a good condition for restoration

doesn't look like the right seal to me

Ebay has used ones for around 270 and rebuild for 500

I have one if you like, rebuild with new bearings, clamps, rubber hoses etc according to fsm, but shipping will be $

Finally saw time monday to clay and wax the Z... Looking good, might need some more claying next month or so, there's still some dirt trapped in the paint, wasn't expecting that for 2 year old paint Also got the 351 back in the Stang..

Thanks Chas Lot's of work that Mustang.. engine build isn't so easy as the Datsun... You gonna be @ JCS 2018 ? I think I will be there with the Datsun if they weather is nice.

Well time has moved fast, didn't have much time on my hands for the projects in between work, but got some things done. I hope the Mustang will make it's way back on the road this summer. I picked up the Cleveland engine 6 weeks ago, so far it's almost back together. I hope to put it in the car in the next 4 weeks. Had to get hardened push rods + taller valve covers because of the roller rockers, so that took a while to get here from the states. Not sure what the horespower numbers will be ( have to dyno it to know ), but somewhere between 500/600 at the crank. Also ordered an Autometer RPM gauge, looks cool as ****, and functional to The datto also got out of storage since last month. The brakes got stuck from sitting 6/7 months, but took care of that, also replaced breaker points. Also replaced the glass fuses ( FL headlight beam was bad, came out the be a fuse ) in the fuse box while @ it, heck they could be 30 years old. Waiting for better weather then will give it a new coat of wax and polish the crome again.

Just wanted to check the forum in a while, and the first topic that comes up is rust repair haha... datsun Like JDM says I believe these are the fresh air channels ( you know that lever you pull inside to get cold air to your legs.. ) Pretty easy to see why they rust... ( air + moisture ).

Maybe...

This fume thing really seems a problem with the early z's, not sure if there are complains from 280Z owners ? I've replaced everything in mine and sometimes I still smell it.. with the windows closed no smell, but when windows down in the summer there's a light smell ( not Always ). It could come from anywhere I gave up searching, just accept the smell it's not that bad.