bartsscooterservice

By the way the Mustang has not succeed the test @ the RDW, there where some small things to repair: 1 brake hose rear ( to much wear they said ), rear drums brake difference ( I think new shoes or brake cylinder not applying enough force ), and one headlight could not be adjusted. Some small things to do.

Yeah it's like Dennis says.. hand pump how much you want, and then the small lever releases the fuel into the tank of your moped. This one is for 50cc bikes, and was 2 stroke, you could mix it with the small lever on the top of the tank, before using it. I just put regular gas now, because 2 stroke bikes are almost non anymore.. But it's for mopeds and small bikes, not for cars. Although I could use it haha, but it would be empty soon, I think the tank holds about 80 or 100 liters of fuel. It works like this: There's a pipe going all the way to the bottom of the tank, in there there's a mesh filter ( you can replace that filter from the bottom, there's a plug ) The pump is in the upper housing, beneath the valve, so when you pump it's sucked directly from the bottom of the tank. It then passes a one way valve with a spring, the valve is pushed open by the force of the pump, the fuel then enters the bowl on top. One you get the desired mixture just stop. The valve will close very quick because of the spring return, so the amount of fuel you want is kept accurate. Then the small lever on the side of the valve housing, when you turn that you open up the exit for the fuel trough the hose. If some fuel is left in the bowl, just put the hose back in the tank and drain the remains for re-ruse.

Something more cool I want to share with you guys. I bought an old 2 stroke fuel pump from an auction, the tank was solid ( surface rust but not trough, every rubber dryed out offcourse ) but it stood there in a garage storage for like 25 years. It's from 1978 and the brand is Bereila, which is actually a Dutch brand. And they even stil exist today, so I managed to buy spare parts from them to restore this beauty ! I could go right into a museum now.. but I will actually use it to fill the scooters for my work. But I will make sure it stays in good condition I might want to sell it in a few years, who knows.. I am addicted in restoring this old stuff ! Anyhow.. here are the pictures from how it came in, and how it is now.. And how it is now:

The first ones look in much better condition if you wanna be picky. but 850 yeah it's madness, but maybe it's worth it I have no idea

Yeah, looks like a nice one, who was kept inside away from the elements. Can't see the underside, but on the pictures it looks fairly Original, only the sunroof must be added later on. Great find. Clean it up, polish it some, and just enjoy it, keep it Original would be my advice

Thanks everyone. Yeah great memories... of the good old times

Nice work !. I saw another NOS center Valance on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-New-NOS-FRONT-Center-Panel-Valance-Apron-Panel-Genuine-Factory-/401064184325?hash=item5d6149ca05:g:t~8AAOSwpzdWrolq&vxp=mtr

Not Datsun.. but my 1970 Mustang Sportsroof 351c 4v , that's now finished restoration.. going for RDW ( road worthy check, registration etc .. ) next week. Paint is still some DIY job in the US.. but I polished it for 7 hours straight and this is how it came out.. good enough for this year, maybe a respray next year..

If you get that thing down to bare metal there will be a lot of rust to handle on this 240..

First type valve cover with the 2400 on it http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-VALVE-COVER-2400CC-SERIES-1-280Z-260z-RARE-/291646172182?hash=item43e7776c16:g:mKwAAOSwYaFWfG3p&vxp=mtr

Well here in The Netherlands I can see a growing interest for JDM classics, but still way not as much as the US and EURO traditional classics.. Maybe in other parts of Europe.. It will take a while I guess, before they are really recognized. But who knows what the classic car market will be in 2030 ? Maybe the newer " computer " generation will loose interest...

It's the diff mount, it was just not that solid, the diff has some room for play when the propeller shaft releases the torque on it. New OEM can solve it for some time, but it will come back. I replaced mine not so recently, including all the shafts, and it has come back again ( not all the time ). Maybe some aftermarket reinforcement brackets for the diff are a good idea. That thing needs to be rock solid in the chassis.

I think I know what it is.. this is only to 240's with factory AC. It's the mounting bracket for the condenser/radiator.

Nothing !

I remember when I did mine, the only way I could get it right was to follow every step in the FSM ( Factory Manual ), only then I got a full lock at 3 clicks

$ 125... pfff these things would be a few bucks back in the day They are sure making a business out of it !

Windows 7 and IE 11 I just used the embed function, so it should work, but only thing I see is a link

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/CtdDWB9pj7A" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nRBkwgpxMbA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I used the share button now in youtube ? Stil showing link ? The source button is not doing anything when I copy both types or URL

https://youtu.be/HML-cWNoLu4

That's what I think of it to really.. just post a link, you will go to the video anyhow.. and it isn't taking up half the page..

You could also use this for the stock cast iron " look " Motip Heat Resistant Lacquer Anthracite 400 ml 04037 8711347040377