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Forgot to say if you haven't done allready: drain the fuel tank and put in fresh fuel before diagnosing anything, also replace the fuel filter, and any fuel line that looks bad..

Starter fluid in the air filter is fine, the stuff is very explosive, so only a slight vapor would make the engine react/run if....you have a good spark. So when the engine is dying, and you try to re-start it with starterfluid and it doesn't react in any way, you have an ignition problem.

The head gasket gave way, and I drove it for to long, and burned to pistons into the wall... no coolant/engine overheat But after the engine shop checked everything.... They and I found out it was time for an engine rebuild anyhow . The head I know was bad..., because I couldn't adjust 2 valves anymore. But now the engine shop also said the head needs to be welded up because a coolant canal or something was damaged. Anyhow I said I couldn't go for another head, because I want to keep the E31 head and it's getting pretty rare to. Then they found out after measuring that the crank was worn in axial, and had to be replaced to. So on one side I had bad luck, but it seems the engine was about to go anyhow... The clutch plate was also on it's last breath. So...

So they are saying the fuel injection on the 280z is more reliable than the SU like carb setup on the early 240z ? Uh no... It's just that most people never cared for maintenance on the carbs, if they did they are very reliable.

I want to Japan Classic Sunday, the weather was very nice and lots of friendly people there. I was the only 240Z there, I did saw two other 260Z one original Dutch the other one was US import and came from Germany. I found some pictures. The way back didn't go that good.. It was hot weather and the temp gauge showed the engine was pretty hot, I thought due the weather... suddenly the temp gauge went all the way to the right and the engine started losing power. ( at that point I was almost home ), and stopped alongside the road.. opened the hood and ALOT of white smoke, burned oil smell, coolant everywhere etc.. @(&!@#^!@ Towed the 240Z home, and pulled the head, and found 2 cilinders with lot's of scrape marks and half burned pistons.. The engine is now out of the car for a total rebuild... and is at the local engine rebuild shop.. I need to order ALOT of engine parts from the US, working on that right now. The rebuild shop called yesterday and I need all 12 valves replaced from the E31 head and also a new crankshaft with bearings in .010 overbore.. Alot of $$$ ...

@ Gav: it can't be that bad that's it's beyond repairable. The bodywork seems to line up fine from the pictures, but I can't tell for sure. Maybe the topic starter could get the car to a good body shop to have a closer look ( pay them a few dollars to inspect the bodywork ) if he doesn't know where to look for himself ?

There's some more collector stuff on there: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Nissan-Mr-K-Signed-Z-Day-Z-Store-Datsun-Collectable-240Z-Poster-Ad-/181790255129?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a538b2819 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-BRE-Zeal-Autographed-by-Mr-K-Peter-Brock-John-Morton-Car-Poster-/380512982252?hash=item58985754ec&vxp=mtr BRE vintage signed http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUTOGRAPHED-ORIGINAL-BRE-Datsun-240Z-George-Bartell-Poster-NOT-A-NEW-PRINT-/181784753396?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a533734f4

Okay different opinion there. I to have a Mr.K signature on a Datsun poster signed in 2011 in Tokyo hanging on the wall. I don't feel it that way, just that I have some living history on the wall, knowing " Mr.K " signed it in person, it's pretty cool.

I would use 15w40, 10w30 is to thin in my opinion, it's also hotter there in Texas, so the oil will be like water that thin. Kroon Oil recommends 15w40 for my 240Z here. But if I look at MPM oil for instance, their advice as you can see depends on the outside temperature, hotter weather needs a thicker grade oil, then colder weather.. Engine L24 Capacity:5 liter Use: NormalProduct recommendation:04000 - Motor Oil 10W-40 Semi Synthetic Service intervalsChange each 5000 km Use: Initial service, at temperature: above -20°CProduct recommendation:04000 - Motor Oil 10W-40 Semi Synthetic Service intervalsChange each 1000 km Use: Normal, at temperature: above -10°CProduct recommendation:01000 - Motor Oil 15W-40 Multi Grade Service intervalsChange each 5000 km Use: Initial service, at temperature: above -10°CProduct recommendation:01000 - Motor Oil 15W-40 Multi Grade Service intervalsChange each 1000 km Use: Normal, at temperature: from -20°C to 20°CProduct recommendation:01000B - Motor Oil 20W-50 Multi Grade Classic Service intervalsChange each 5000 km Use: Initial service, at temperature: from -20°C to 20°CProduct recommendation:01000B - Motor Oil 20W-50 Multi Grade Classic Service intervalsChange each 1000 km Use: Normal, at temperature: above 30°CProduct recommendation:41000D - Motor Oil SAE 40 Super Single Grade Service intervalsChange each 5000 km Use: Initial service, at temperature: above 30°CProduct recommendation:41000D - Motor Oil SAE 40 Super Single Grade Service intervalsChange each 1000 km

Looking at the pictures, there was some welding done to it. But I don't think it's that of a problem, you could get a bodyshop do some repairs to make the body solid. The interior is in decent condition to ? Looking on the pictures it even has the original size tires with hubcaps, at 6K I agree with the rest above, this is a steal, even if some bodywork was needed. One question does it have the matching number L24 ? If not that would be a set back..

This is something for Car S.O.S ( Discovery Channel ) ... I can't see anything on the condition of the 240Z from that pictures. But living on such a tight budget, I would sell the 280 first, to raise some money for the 240.. Would love to have a look or help, but don't live in the US.

It was manufactured on 10/70 but they sold it as a 71 year.

That does sound alot better What engine oil are you using, I would recommend the classic line oils for these engines, not the modern ones.

Good chance it's the wheel bearings, but to be sure you have to check it

ok

Also thanks to Philip for some help on the Bricklin parts !

I can see it. Try F5 a few times ?

Did you replace the rocker arms/camshaft or just re-installed after the head work ? Big chance you need to change those 2, they are worn in on each other. In the picture below the arrow points to the place that makes the noise.

We went for a small drive today through Germany, here's a picture of the 240Z and my friends Bricklin SV1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-240Z-GLOVEBOX-MR-K-SIGNATURE-KATAYAMA-LID-DOOR-RARE-/271899055792?hash=item3f4e7256b0&vxp=mtr

Thanks Edit: The 240Z has been valuated again, the expert said somewhere around 25 to 27k euro, but I still have to wait to get the report from them, so I can also update my Insurance to it's value.

Little update: 2 upcoming events for the 240Z 5 Juli I will be at Japan Classic Sunday again, http://www.japanclassicsunday.nl/ and 2 August I will be back at the Sinsheim Museum in Germany, where they hold the anual US car treffen, http://sinsheim.technik-museum.de/us-car-treffen

It's nice to see a 240Z but you can't call this a restoration, more like a quick buff up for re-sale. But it's for a tv show anyhow.

http://www.classiczcars.com/uploads/monthly_03_2011/post-13952-14150814228435.jpg You can take the rear part of the gearbox off ( when the gearbox is out of the car ), if the drive gear is damaged. You sure it isn't the driven gear part that goes into the gearbox ?

Good luck finding this. Mine did all sorts of crazy things untill I replaced basically everything on the drive train and suspension it was all worn out from years of abuse. If you replace the bushings your best bet is to do buy a urethane kit and replace everything. Some things needed to be torqued down when the car is on the ground, the FSM has all the torque values. Engine mounts can be done with the engine in the car, it just needs to be lifted up a bit with a crane of lift from underneath.