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Hi Chas, Thanks, yeah I feel the paint came out great. It's such much better without that stupid sunroof ! The Chrome work should last, it was just they did a poor preperation job ( I asked other companies on their opinion based on the pictures of their result ). I'm curious if they get it right this time. I didn't want to go for the harrington ones because I would like to keep it stock.. The Mach 1 has arrived, first I will get everything out of the car, engine out ( will be a crate engine anyhow ), and make a '' to do '' list.. Bart

So far now it's finished, only waiting for the bumpers to come back. I was told from the chroming shop that it would be about 4 weeks. The 71 Mustang has also arrived in port, and going to pick it up monday, so I will have plenty to do when the weather cleares up haha

If you wanna make around 175/200 hp on the L24. I would use stock internal parts on the engine and nothing else, maybe a stage 1 cam and head ( flow ) work would be recommended. Also triple carbs would increase hp output.

You could... with one of these... ::

" would make a great drag car... :: " ....

On carburetors I would use nothing else than ethanol free gasoline ( pure gasoline ), or a max of 5% ethanol.

Now I know why all those wheel bearings are shot ::

Nice build so far. Good that it worked out okay with Rebello.. Are you going to put any type of air filter on those carbs, because if not I don't think it would be nice for engine internals sucking up road dirt..

http://mycarquest.com/2012/02/the-controversy-barn-find-original-versus-restored-classic-car.html http://rtcpal.info/the-rise-of-the-barn-find-collector-car-difference-between-barn-find-and-preservation-class-is-bigger-than-some-realize/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9EcPqgl0_E

I don't mean a worn out one. But like if you have a 71 Z that has been well kept in garages, serviced and un-restored during it's life time, or a 71 that has been used intensively and than restored. There's a difference in that.

49k damn that's alot. Personally I see many reason's why I wouldn't give that much money for that Z, although it's an early model with 240z on the side pillar. It seems the dash is also repaired and then texture painted, don't like it, it's to rough. Also a completely restored 240Z won't give you that " old " feel to it. But that's just my personal opinion.

Nice bodywork so far !

Only option is to take the head back off...

I was putting together the chrome bumper parts, but as I was doing, it just peeled of on the inside of the bumpers, and all rust and everything. Thought...wtf ! Called the chromer, and they say everything will be re-done thankfully, after a good conversation There's a picture with the bumpers, but they are off again now, they will go back on monday morning. Heres some pictures if the car with the new paint ( there's dust on it and everything, but I will polish and wax it once the weather starts clearing up in the spring and I have some time.

Since my car was recently painted, I thought what the heck lets try the door seals from precision, since the whole kit was from them. But I needed to slam the door again. So put back my old seals for the doors that worked fine. Anyhow the problem with the seal from precision ( and other immitation brands ) is that when you close the door, it starts rubbing at the lower front of the door when you start closing it, about halfway, and then from that point the friction prevents from closing the door normally, so you need to slam it. Also the rubber is to stiff, preventing the door from lining up properly with the body on the outside.

yes

I can get you the exact rubber door strip on a roll. I used them on mine. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/42681-door-slamming-issue-fixed-finally/page-2?hl=%2Bdoor+%2Bslamming+%2Bproblem#entry385316 Post 39

Good old days

Get a wiring diagram from the FSM. And measure wire by wire ( A to B ) for shortcut first, then start with the control switches. Figure out first what color does what. If all that works, your turn signals should work if wired/connected properly. I repaired mine to a few days ago, some where not working, one wire was getting hot also when I turned on the flasher to the right side, and it was a shortcut in the postive wire after some measuring. Not a big job to replace, and it worked again.

Something in the ignition/timing. Need to check everything, change coil for test, and check if vacuum advance working.

I don't have mine 16.5 years haha, only 2 but I'm sure the total cost including the car is allready over 15k euro. I don't want to know how much

I sent the previous owner Alan van Gundy some pictures of the car and here's his reaction: Hey, thanks for the pictures! Looking good, glad you kept the same blue - it is a pretty color. Looking forward to pictures after you get it all put back together. I hope you get years of pleasure from the Z after all the hard work and investment! Merry Christmas! On Dec 18, 2014 3:19 PM Alan VanGundy

Yup. Was with the paint shop yesterday and they are allready putting everything back on the car with new seals etc. I picked up the bumpers today back from chrome plating, really " shiny " ! I will have to be patient and carefull putting it back on the car haha.

I read one of his reactions on youtube and he didn't mean it that way, only that the engine comes alive in the higher rpm range.