bartsscooterservice

took the gas pedal off, and cleaned/lubed the rotating part, it helped again in anything above 1500 rpm , but still not the heavy part in the beginning for driving away

If you found a solution let me know ! My dad also said something about idle speed, but setting it back to 800 rpm didn't have any effect

yeah something like that, I checked between work today but couldn't find anything odd. But if the butterfly valve was contacting the throttle body, then wouldn't it also be when the engine is not running ? It's only when it's running...

yeah when engine is running, it feels like engine vacuum is pulling on it my dad had one in the 70's and he said didn't have it, so must be a wear problem. Still thinking the carburetor axle and the linkage on the manifold cause to much resistance due wear.. but didn't have time to check it yet, will do saturday

Did this project ever finish ?

Maybe the butterfly axles in the carburetor are just sticking in the closed position due wear overtime, i'll have a look next week. Because it's the heavy point I need to overcome then suddenly it goes, I can't see how this got to do with even a linkage with play.

mm, so the problem must be in the butterfly shafts on the carbies...

Seeing that rust, It's ALOT of work. The part under the doors is prob crispy to. I would fix that first if I where you, then look into the mechanical part. Rust that bad takes some serious skill to repair it SAFE, that's the most important thing imo.

The engine dying must be some other problem. There must be enough oxygen there, your buddies car keeps running..

I want to keep it Original, so cable is no option. I did the bell crank mod, and for a while that seemed to help but the problem is back. @ Kenobi : I was thinking the same way, the problem wasn't there when new ! It must be wear.. or a little sticky butterfly valves in the idle/lower part ?

Everybody knows the problem: it's really hard to drive away without flooring it right away and having a wheelspin. I lubed everything, I adjusted the play, even did the bellhousing modification, that helped a little, but still I have problems driving away normally. What's the problem here ? It's driving me crazy..

Guys thanks for the fast input ! I just took it apart and saw my mistake, there's indeed a groove, where the clip goes in. Everything works fine again.

somebody has a picture how deep it needs to go, and how the retainer clip holds it down ? I just changed the o ring on mine, but now, the speedo doesn't work anymore and under driving I can feel vibration on the gearstick... is it to far in or ?

Okay.. it's back on the road again. LeonV managed to drop off the diff, so let's see if it makes it to Stolze. I also changed the engine and gearbox mounts, the ride is pretty good now. 29 september the 240z will join a local classic car rally.. Betuwse Rally voor oldtimers, Bemmel on Wheels

me to, I really need a good non whining differential matching a 4 speed manual

Think your right. So it's coming this way, interesting. Where does he live ?

Yes 3M actually has a product for it, you'r right. See my post above.

I have found the right stuff after asking the bodyshop: 3M productnr: 08115 and the nozzle 08193 On-line Product Catalog:Â 3M? Panel Bonding Adhesive, 08115, 200 mL Cartridge, 6 per case

Yup, you have to get the right stuff for permanent attachment.

hahahah yeah crazy guy

Alan, I think I found out the rear bumper must have been damaged during shipment! Gr Bart

I don't know what stuff I will ask. I do have great experience with Bison Polymax... Did a few spoilers with that in the past, and it's rock solid, they never came off, and I could even hang on it with full force.

So far things I need to do are torque everything on the front end down now it's on the wheels, and bleed the front brakes again. Then it can drive again. Engine runs fine now with the new waterpump. Alternator is giving a maximum of 15 volts @ the battery, is this okay or to high ? I am not sure. The condensator on the alternator is broken, I need to get a new one, or can I leave it out ? At least I can drive, but it would be nice if the diff from LeonV makes it to here.. and the part from Charles. W'll see. Meantime I managed to fix all the locks. The situation was I only got 1 key with the car from Stolze, and it didn't fit the other locks, now I took my rear hatch lock to a professional company in security and locks, and they made 2 new keys for the lock, and it now also works on the doors.. so the ignition lock must have been changed somewhere.

Datsun : Z-Series Sport / Race in Datsun | eBay Motors :stupid:

Hi E-tek, I'm also planning of getting rid of the sunroof, a bodyshop told me that there's no welding required, the will cut a metal plate to the shape with a little overlap and use some kind of superglue, it's the same strength they claim as welding. It's glued underneath from the inside, the rest is filled with bondo. Bart.