bartsscooterservice

Nice find! Hopefully it's getting restored to it's original glory. The brown interior goes well with the green color.

Agree, heat gun with a scraper is way easier, few hours work and the car is down to bare metal. Which I would do, because there's always some dents or rust hidden under there.

wow ! moving along there..

Yeah, ít works great now But yesterday I was driving, and the car started sputtering again.. I just replaced the NGK plugs a few days ago for the ones that said in the manual.. BPR6ES. Took the plugs out and looked like this ( compare with the picture of the B7ES previous page ): Weird or what? It ran good again right away when I put the most basic B7ES plugs in. The 6's says made in France, the other one made in Japan, maybe that's it .

This is interesting, since I got the BPR6ES plugs for my 240. And it ran okay for 3 days, after that it began sputtering on acceleration. I took the plugs out and looked black sooted. I put back the B7ES plugs, and was running strong again. The B7ES also seems to color nice dark white in the middle, while the BPR6ES turns all sooted? Weird stuff... I must admit, I'm not a fan of modern plugs in old cars.. The BPR6ES says made in france, the B7ES made in japan.. maybe it just hates France

have you tried a loose thick cable from the + of the battery directly to the starter, to see if the engine is cranking? If so, it's somewhere in the wiring after the relay.

seafoam won't help. Clean with air pressure pistol. You might have deposits in the carb from sitting still for so long. That's a problem in the place where the needle goes into the seat, it will not close properly and leak.

I bet she does Okay, so the auto parts stores couldn't get a rebuild kit for the master clutch cylinder, only the slave cilinder. So with alot of searching, I found a new one: My brother helped bleeding the clutch, and ...smooth as silk now ! Bart

The only thing that horrifies me is what would happen with that strut tower in a frontal crash....

awesome work!

I'm not good in English, but I never had to use a hammer to get seals in... It's important to use alot of oil on the seal when installing ( or else you will damage the rubber, and it will be damaged on first start of the engine ), I usually just drip it into the oil. Then push the seal in place with a little clockwise rotation with your fingers. Some seals might need a little help, but very gently with the right driving tool. I also seen alot of seals pushed to deep. Harder seals aren't always better, usually I prefer the softer versions.

I'd say no. You mean it doesn't keep running when you close the choke? Your float bowl exit might be clogged... or the upper part where the needle goes into the seat.

I did mine, and didn't have any gasket kit... The float bowl is besides the carb, then feeds the fuel through the hose to the nozzle. It could be your float level to high or choke sticking what Captain zero is saying above. Clean the nozzle very well, so that the choke moves up and down freely. Clean the float bowl to, and the seat where the needle goes in, check the needle tip. I used special sealant for the float bowl, and it's holding fine.

I see a good middle piece of the rear bumper, need that one badly !

and Americans complain about their " Gallon " (3,78 litre ) prices ... I wish we would have their prices, a fill up would cost me at least half then.

little update: I took the master cilinder from the clutch off, but decided just as well take the slave cilinder off to. Now both will get cleaned and new seals, brought them away for rebuild.

sorry double post

75% of fuel price here is goverment taxes.. If I fill up in Germany saves me 18 euro cents a litre. Fuel prices are even higher up there right?

good luck ! I think once you got the transmission and engine dropped in, things will go pretty quick

Thanks! Okay, so today I took the Z for another drive to get alot of new parts.. points,rotor, distributor cap, etc basically all for the ignition ( allready changed the wires which made good difference ). On my way, halfway the Z began sputtering like madness, and was almost unable to drive. I managed to get back home somehow... I replaced all the ignition parts, and now it runs like a dream, and goes beyond 5 k rpm, which before it didn't Also put a new oil pressure sender unit on the block, and I finally have oil pressure showing on the dash now ! Next problem for now: it's hard to get into gear and grinds. I have taken the master clutch cylinder off for new cups. And will see what it does. I don't want to wreck the gearbox from this old lady.

yes..stock 71

I also still have this problem, when driving away, it's hard to get moderate rpm increase for driving away.. Is the problem the linkage 240dkw is describing above? I'm trying to understand why there is a dead point in the gas pedal on low rpm... I suppose it worked well when new from factory?

Yeah I think so.. it was standing at least 1 year with Stolze, and I believe it stood in the garage with Alan for a while as well.

This one is nice to Nissan 350Z Commercial - 240Z to 350Z - YouTube