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The choke is working correctly, and can move freely up and down. If I read the plugs the mixture looks good. I don't need choke to start it, just use the starter motor 2 times and it starts. Just filled 38 liters of 91 octane again to it in Germany ( cheaper gas ). So I'm assuming it's a little more optimistic, maybe 21 mpg, I will see what the car does on fuel economy when driven more overtime. Yesterday I let a local tire shop balance the front wheels ( took him 10 minutes to each wheel, and we got a 0 to 0 reading ), and they will do the rear wheels next saturday. In the beginning I had quite a vibration above 70 mph, but after some driving that almost seems gone now, weird?

If I fill up the Z, the meter doesn't go all the way to F. But yesterday I filled it up, and drove about 200 km, and when back the meter was a little away from half a tank. So assuming the meter is partly correct, it will consume 19 miles to the gallon, that's quite alot isn't it? When in neutral and outside the car, I step on the pedal, there's black fumes... so I'm assuming the carbies run rich... or worn out jets?

damn must hurt ! I also regularly hurt myself , 2 weeks ago I was drilling with a very small drill, and put to much pressure on it, it snapped, and guess what was there..my left hand thumb. It went to the bone and a piece of skin from my thumb up near the nail was off. Now it's healed again almost, but another scar for the collection

Try here.. 1 litre euro95 for 1.73 in town, and 1.83 highway prices to fill up the Z will cost me about 90 euro...and that's gone very fast

I replaced the B7ES plugs for BPR6ES ( stock ), but this is how they looked like:

I got b7es plugs in it now, the core is dark white, and the metal edge of the plug is a dark/a bit sooted. which indicates rich idle but good condition on half to full throttle. But I will get the b6es plugs to match the stock heat range. I didn't have any other plugs in storage now. It stumbles a bit on cold start, but after 20 seconds it idles fine, and no smoke once warm. I don't need choke to start it, and it's pretty cold now ! I do notice the engine has trouble when above 5000 rpm, could also be bad ignition though..

It's moving along pretty well, soon another classic z saved

Hi Alan, Yes, she's back alive made the first trips on the road yesterday. Gotta love the looks from people... not much 240z around here. But the engine was holding back a bit on acceleration, but I fixed that today with some new spark plug cables. Now it's all good This is what I found about Steve Campbell: Hertel R E JR 5244 Foxridge dr Shawnee Missionks 66202 ( Date 07/27/1971 ) Bart

Just looked at the spark plugs, only 3 and 5 are black at the core, 1,2,4 and 6 look normal black outside, dark white in the inside. So I guess I found the problem to be ingition, I think leads

@ EuroDat: yellow ones? What's the year of your Z? When I was at the local autostore yesterday to order plates, they didn't even ask for yellow, the computer said blue right away. @ RobertS: Thanks. Good luck with repairs on your Z though Still some work to do, but she's almost there. Took it for a testdrive today and it drives pretty good, but some studder from the engine, I think something with the ignition though, old leads. Will have a look. I was wondering if we can find back the 2nd or even the 1ste owner ( campbell ) of my Z? That would be cool! Here's some pics of it with the plates on now. The rear plate barely fitted, the us plates are smaller.

Each to their own I guess. Personally I cry seeing a v8 in there.

Be carefull ! Ted is a real boss

It's the looks and excitement that make your forget the rest of the work that is to come on this 71 ! I'd go with what jackboxxx is saying... look for one with a better body.

I've put 15w40 in it now, but feel it is very heavy to lift the pistons up. The car revs and pulls fine however. I think it's best to put a lighter oil like sae30 that says in the fsm ?

It will be blue ones, before 78 are blue ones ( historic automobile ), after are yellow ones, this was told to me at the RDW. BTW no more leaks now from the heater core

Moving along pretty well e-tek! The end is coming in sight

The license plate number is an old one, and will be: AR-56-38

Yeah at his rate he will be done next week ! Paintjob looks neat !

Have to say they work well, I've sprayed water on it with a hose, and I can't see any leaks inside the car. Makes the doors close alot easier

Lately I quoted some Japanese classic car companies, also Rocky Auto, basically the answer I got back: " stock bumpers are made out of scrap metal with some chrome on it " .. that might be true, considering the total price of the car back in the days. The bumper from harrington are made in Vietnam ( now also Thailand I read ) for cheap peanuts. I also think there must be a company in China willing to make copies...for far less money.

I got it repaired, and seems dry now after 4 hours, will check tomorrow again ! Also got the ownership paperwork finally home! Now I can get the plates and then insurance..

I managed to open up the heater core..to get acces to the radiator between work. I will let my dad have a look at it this evening. Here's some pics that might be usefull for other people who want to know how it looks.

Okay, so I was happy I got the meters and clock on the dash working again.. and replaced the knicked heater hoses with good ones....yesterday faith struck me again. First RDW called, they made a mistake with some copy of the US ownership paperwork, and they needed the original one.. oke so I brought them.., but this means it will take another week before I can get the plates and put insurance on it. Second... then in the evening I saw coolant leaking from both sides of the tunnel to the floormats... ~*&^$$!! ... Ripped the floormats out, and luckily not much wet. First I thought the operating valve, but seemed " dry ", then when I pulled one hose of and looked inside, it was all wet... yup. Used search function here on the forum on how to get the damn thing out, and it seemed possible without removing the entire dash. Started on it this morning, and I managed to get it out within 2 hours time ( new record ? ), it helped by removing the front splitter panel from the heater core, to slide it out easily. And here we are now... My dad repaired the radiator before with solder, that worked, but not sure if this is repairable... what do you guys think? If you look at the 2nd picture above connection seems wet, possible leak from there? I will try to have a look at it this evening. Bart

The crash did more to the chassis then you can see

you've come along way! looking good, really attention to detail.