bartsscooterservice

Welcome Yes, we do know where Bahrain is

Nice work again e-tek ! You'll get there

good point, will do..thanks

I did look at the tech articles and use the search function many times, but couldn't find the exact info on that washer, just a exploided view where it's in..

I noticed there is a washer ( or 2 ? ) underneath the spring, on top of the piston, whatˊs itˊs function? ( inside the vacuum area in the bell housing ) , I am missing a washer on 1 carb, is it a problem? If so anyone has info on their thickness?

Hi Norm, Nice 280Z, you'll be deep into the Z virus soon like the others here say! Looked at the pictures, and rust is allready everywhere believe me. But that doesn't matter it's a Z.., just repair the bad spots. I think going for a second hand dent free front fender from a donor car is much easier for you, I would recommend to scrape all the paint of the car ( this is what an old pro from a local body shop here lately told me ), this way you can acces every bad rust spot on the body, many times it's hidden under the bodyfiller. And you got all that nasty old body filler removed, then let a body shop do a new thin bondo job and respray. ( or diy respray ) Bart

Okay.. next update ( tomorrow I can go back for the rear brakes ). Thanks to help here on the forum in the SU section and some friends, and information from the internet I was able to clean ( also the nozzles )and rebuild the Hitachi carburetor. I've done 1 now, and will do the other one tomorrow if I have some time between my work. Everything works smooth again. Any advice on the damper oil? I've got different engine oils forehand and ATF.

aha ok I got it now, seems the same principle as CVK carbs. I will have a look at the carbs tomorrow, thanks found this, helped me out understanding the carb SU Variable Choke Carburettors Explained

I did look at the articles, but the main problem with my carbs is the operating mechanism om the side of the carbs, that I think are somewhat wrong, if somebody has a detailed picture of that part for me? I can look how it's supposed to be.. 1 carb when I operate the main throttle it will lower the nozzle just a bit, the other one doesn't lower the nozzle at all, something is wrong with the operating mechanism settings. Choke seems to work on both carbs.

I also work on small bikes, and adjust valve clearence when engine is cold.

Was A/C stock option back in the days?

beautiful! that license plate is cool !

Thanks Blue, the rear drum brakes wasn't difficult, I did notice thanks to the drawing in the manual that the bigger spring was mounted on top, while it should be down at the cilinder. Anyhow I let a shop put new pads on the shoes, but now the drum didn't fit over it, when fully adjusted inwards. So the pads are to thick. The shop is closed this week holiday, so I will go back monday to let them take something of the pads, and then I can put the car back on it's wheels and bleed the brakes. ( I first asked a machine shop about taking something out of the drums, but he also adviced taking something of the pads instead ) Meanwhile while I have to wait, I am working on the engine bay, I sprayed everything back into the blue color of the car, since that was all nasty and grey.. cleaning up the engine and parts a bit, but wil be painting the engine block in summer. Now the carbs are a problem but a friend can help, he maybe has 2 good ones. ( it are 4 screw )If he has none, I'll prob let a shop rebuild them, or get a set from the US. Anyhow I'm speeding things up a bit, need to be back RDW within 2 max 3 weeks. There's still a piece of the emission junk on the exhaust manifold, but I will try to take that off in the summer, it's verry corroded, and feared breaking it

Nice to see you got it on the road again ! Maybe a DIY paintjob in the future?

Are there any basic settings for the different adjustment screws? Was wondering.. since I have them of now for cleaning Bart

Looking good ! Makita is quality tools

Indeed, very nice work !

If you can get the piece of bumper ( if chrome intact ) for me, then I can pay to you for the bumper and shipping costs ? Bart

Installed the brake pads with new shoes and the repaired brake cilinder, but now the drums won't come on. ( the cilinder is all adjusted back ) I gave them the maxium drum size which is 2300mm.. mm anyhow, tomorrow I will let a machine shop take some out of the drums, and then it should be fine. So meanwhile I went to work in the engine bay, and one side is done today.

the older bmw m series with straight 6 engines are beast though, although I believed they are less hp in us? my brother got a 325 e36 with 200 hp, that's not an m3, but it was pretty fast ( topped almost 250 km/h gps ) and ****loads of torque. or get a japanse straight 6 engine car like a skykine or supra and make it twin turbo

I think if I had that much money, I would just drop the Z at the best classic car restoration shop, and dump a **** load of cash on the counter and say good luck!

I know what you mean about the cold though, I use alot of diesel during the winter months for heating. Now the goverment banned the cheaper red diesel here, so have to look for alternative next year winter.

Good news: tomorrow I can pick up the new brake shoes for the rear, and repaired brake cilinder for rear left So RDW will be mid next week... Worked a bit on it again, sprayed half of the inside of the rear fenders and made all the plastic in the back locked again in place with the correct speednuts. ( all where missing ). The fun part is, I got the radio antenna back working somehow , it's still the original one, but the motor was all cooked up inside, it looked like I couldn't repair it, but somehow after some greasing and cleaning it went back to life... made a good solid bracket for it so it won't come loose. View My Video

You want American, Euro of Japanese?

Favorited thanks! That japanese guy coming in around 6 minutes is a real craftsman getting Z's back to road worthy that rusty. People like him sadly will dissapear in the future.