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Datsun 240Z - Door Seal LH Drivers (Fits on Body) okay now my door seal doesnˊt look like this.... which seems far thinner and easier on compressing...mm wil continue tomorrow see if I can get a door seal like this one from vintage

Was working on the doors this afternoon, and it's all brown..lucky only surface rust, so I need to spray it asap

! Now I removed the door seal and it closes normally.. I put a piece of the seal on the car en closed the door watching from the inside, and shined with a light, and saw that the door can't reach the " 2 " click without a slam, because it starts compressing the seal ( seal is giving resistance, which causes you need to slam ), if i then remove the seal, 2 clicks are reached easily and the door close normally. So I asume the door seal is tho thick.. maybe aftermarket? The important rubber piece enrique talked about on the clicking/rotating mechanism ( hook ) in the door is still there on both sides.

R.I.P...Enrique

Thanks e-tek I went back to RDW today, but it still failed on the rear left brake ( dissapointed because I payed to get the job done ) , anyway I have it back home now, and will repair myself. Just checked and the brake cilinder rear left is leaking, so will get that repared tomorrow, and go back again for the final time Here's some pics from today:

Yeah a replica of the original am radio would sure be a must also original early model bumpers are hard to find, I did find a replica kit but from stainless stell, and they ask almost 1000 euro for that..

wow pretty fast !

I will let them make a rattle can, and spray it on to my engine, see what it does. This must be the right color then.

Well it's up to Mason offcourse what he wants to do with it. Whatever it will be, keep us updated

So I need to give them BS18C39, correct? Search Colour - 18 C 39

Dropping in a bigger engine is easier, but tuning the L24 is way more fun and original, my personal opinion. Bart

Really like the dark green color ! Looks nice on a Z. Keep the L series engine, don't ruin a classic by dropping in a v8, my personal opinion... The Z is very light, and the L24 engine is basically perfect if you tune it, it is fast and fun enough for road racing.. good cam, more compression, bigger valves, triple carbs, better ignition, lighter flywheel... it will be fun. Bart

If you have a piece that contains the original color let me know, I will take it to the paint shop to examine the color. We can bulk, but I only need 2 cans or so.. Bart

Welcome here , some pretty good advice above from fellow members.

Strange there is no factory engine paint code for Datsun to be found, like they just used some random paint color from the shelve.. I can order cans from the US, but the shipping costs are the price of 2 cans, so I'd rather get some paint locally..mmm

Got the camera today: Also with it came adapters you can plug onto it, like a mirror ( to look into dead spots ), a magnetic pick up too, and a hook type pick up tool. The hose is flexable but stays strong in position you bend it. The led light in front is dim-able. This is the cheap version, so it has no recording of usb connection.

Interesting topic, I also still can't get that doors to close normally without moderate slamming... And I believe the passenger side door is also not lining up below. I cleaned all the hinges and replaced the dovetails, but still there. So reading this it can either be the seals that are to thick or the hinges that are worn. I will try when I get the car back.

Well show us a picture if you can, always nice ! Welcome here to. Google says RLS means 260Z..

Ah yeah you guys in the states have 120 volts I forgot.. It should be more then enough for welding on the Z, heavier ones are only for more penetration on thicker metal, which you won't see on anything Z related, like tlorber says. @ Homeboy: If your planning on a future investement i'd go for the 220v... Here I use intermag 250 amp 380 volt with 0.8 wire, but it's a bit overkill for sheet metal work, I need to set it on very low settings.

Mine was done to by the previous owner, but seems to didn't add enough foam filling in the seat. Maybe I will do something about that later on, but other things first

Yeah it's crazy taxes.. I bought dovetails from UK and US... you'd say UK is cheaper, but they where twice as expensive due taxes..

If failed today on some points for the APK ( road safety check ). I drove the car back to the company that has done the work, and they will repair those points it failed, so next week i'll go back again, and then it should be fine. Mostly the things I need to do when it's home, are engine (bay ) work. And some more on rust protection.

Don't know about the welder brands in the US. But in here you have 220v and 380 volts (2 fase )welders. 220v should be fine for you, and with a 0.8 wire. And to max 135 amp should be enough. I should go for a well known brand, rather than go cheap with welders.

Nice Z! Like those fender mirrors

Seems like it needs a smaller main jet then. I do think if stock is heat range 6, and your slamming it on the track high rpm, heat range 7 would be better. I'm not an expert in this, but would'n't a stronger amp ignition be better for a more complete burn ?, it can make a difference in spark color output..