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I agree with you John, but cutting up my Z for a ground up restoration is not what I was looking for at this moment, the body seems pretty good condition overall, yes there might be rust inside the panels, so that's why I was thinking of slowing that process down at the least? On the bottle of Valvoline ML says : changes within 24 hours in an amber colored, waxy, semi-hard transparent film. Displaces water quickly and penetrates into the smallest area's. Penetrates deeply into the rust. If I do nothing I'm sure the process will go even quicker, since moisture and air is free to continue eating up on that unprotected rust on the surface and eating it's way out of the car slowly.

Yeah..isn't it a sad thing... Look how they molested this old girl ( it's not a Z but the same point.. ): http://www.wired.com/autopia/wp-content/gallery/project-detroit/01-project-detroit.jpg

So maybe just the US..? I'm not the expert in this to. Wiki says about the 240Z: Four-speed manual transmission: 3.364:1 (37:11) Five-speed manual transmission: 3.90:1 (39:10) (not available in US) Best thing for GeoJoe is to check the gearbox, and we'll know

I agree. I like reading forums like HybridZ, but personally I would never do that to any classic car. Although Japanese like the tuning scene alot, bet they never thought of Americans dropping v8's in there. Maybe the biggest threat asides rust to a classic Z is people doing hybrids.

Looking good there homeboy, keep us updated

I think if it's that bad like holes start popping out everywhere, and huge rust flakes it sure will have no more effect, but if you start to have light surface rust on the inside, it should be worth spraying it with some kind of a blocker? That waxy sticky stuff i'm planning on spraying on, must sure do something on light rust? If not then why it's advertised? Rust is a process that keeps going, but if you seal of the oxygen en water supply the best you can, it must be able to slow down the process quite a bit? Wiki: Rust formation can be controlled with coatings, such as paint, lacquer, or varnish that isolate the iron from the environment. Large structures with enclosed box sections, such as ships and modern automobiles, often have a wax-based product (technically a "slushing oil") injected into these sections. Such treatments usually also contain rust inhibitors. Loose or thick rust must be removed before anti-rust wax like Waxoyl or a similar product is used. Wax does not penetrate spot welded seams or thick rust well. A penetrating anti-rust product like WD-40 followed by anti-rust wax can be more effective.

I use diesel heaters to warm up the garage, works great, not that expensive on fuel consumption, maybe an idea?

edit: sorry dubble post

Uhm here's a picture: Yeah I'll see how it goes Def will post before and after the process...

How was it ?!

Okay.. I ordered one of these: ACTIE !! HBM Inspectiecamera / Endoscoop - HBM Machines BV I thought it would be very handy to go into these places and check if i did hit everything? Maybe I can link it to the applicator so I can see what I am " hitting " with the spray? I needed one of these anyhow for my work, but thought of why not use it to look inside the hollow area's of the car?

Hi Carl, Is that antenna original? Bart

Here's a video of the Valvoline stuff ( seems about the same as that Eastwood stuff except the color )

Seems some pretty good stuff, wasn't WD40 made for the same purpose? Displace water?

Interesting.. @ grannynot: Valvoline ML they claim for this purpose.. well this is how it looked liked on a piece of rusty metal after 12 hours: It seems to be a very thin layer over the rust, but if it does the job?

Yeah, I heard other people talking about dumping all kinds of oil lubricants into the inner panels, but I'm not sure what to think of that, since they have special products for the job like ML and Dinitrol and so?

Thanks guys. That eastwood kit you get the 1 meter flexibele spray nozzle, I also have that with the Valvoline ML can. I sprayed some Valvoline ML here on a very rusty test plate, I wil check what it has done tomorrow. It seems to bite into the rust and form a layer on top of it. I'll try anything I can to stop/slow down that cancer process from within

When the car has completed the road safety check I'm planning on spraying all the rusty hollow places that the car has with some kind of spray to stop the rust process for most of the part. You guys have any advice on spots where I can go in to reach these places? Like the inner fenders rear, doglegs ( i believe that's how you call em? ) front frame rails etc.. I saw this stuff from Eastwood, anyone got any experience with that? At home I also do have Valvoline ML, but maybe this Eastwood stuff or others are better for the job? Bart Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle | Eastwood

Do you have a picture of the plugs? It's actually okay to have a little but to much fuel but not to much, a dark grey to dry light dark is what your looking for. Heat range 6 should be fine, ngk recommends this as stock.

Datsun : Z-Series Base 2 door Coupe in Datsun | eBay Motors

Ditto. Cool pics so far ! Looks like a .. " once your start cutting there's no way back " Z...

sounds like fun a 70 model.. keep us updated curious to see some pictures

I'd share Carls opinion, " once your start digging ".. ( but I think even the nicest Z has hidden rust in there.. ) you could still have fun with the car, and repair the bad spots, by cutting out the rotten section and weld in new metal, but you need to have some skills for that.

good advice, i'll think i'll do something like that

A friend of mine was curious about that I found the previous owners in the US. He asked me if you guys where able to help him to also possibly trace back the last owner in the US, he doesn't have any history prior to 1990.. and the car was shipped ot the Netherlands in 1994. This is what he has: dhr Kavanagh Joseph J 7695 NW 21ST court Margate florida 33063-7904 The car changed owner 4 times during 1994 in a short time, because the owners found out the floors and frame rails was all rusty, and possibly didn't have the skill to prepare. The current owner repaired this. The only thing not original now is the rear fenders, but he hasn't done anything to it yet. ( more pics to come )