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Anyone know where to get one ? https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic22d04/10-2251 the early one not the later 72 and up

Ah you mean the splash pan ? M5 could be yes. I thought you meant the radiator

M8? you have a picture

Looks like a 350 mile Z to me. Never knew they came with such a heavy rough black undercoating ? You have the picture of the barn find. Just have it cleaned professionally, give it a good tune up and put it on barret jackson or something lol. Worth big bucks for collectors

Yesterday I went to Mart to look @ the 280ZX. He let me drive it a bit, thanks Mart ? He has some things left to do, but overall it drives really nice ! Restoration looks really nice.

Looks great Mart, I will see it in person later on. I always wax and do the chrome once a year also, but didn't have the chance to do it this year so far, weather has not been steady. But w'll see.. I like the 280ZX.. it's got that's 80's feel and look to it.

I still had to replace the steering box on the mustang, so finished this last couple of days. In an earlier stage I allready replaced the rest of the steering assembly. I thought this would solve the left to right play in the steering wheel from inside the car, now everything is replaced but it is still there, maybe I need to adjust something, somewhere, I did email the guy who sold it to me, so waiting for his reply/advice. Now wait for the transmission to be back early september

Holy moly. That's some project you have there. Good luck ! Nice to read your story. Roll it out first and pressure wash it, get ALL the dirt of first, also the underside of the car and engine bay. A few basic steps ( to start it and see how it runs ) to do are: wheel bearing ( inspect them and grease them or replace them ). BRAKES new batteru=y Replace the rubber fuel lines, and flush the lines and TANK, replace fuel filter. Check mechanical fuel pump for operation and leaks. take carbs of and clean them check state of ignition and put some new plugs. put clean NON ethanol gas she should start up if valve clearances are good * you could always check them with the engine tune up

Here's a picture of the Mustang before I took the transmission out..

Did put some new breaker points into the Z after 6k miles on the rebuild yesterday. Currently I'm busy with the AOD from the Mustang, it's a PAIN IN THE arse to build a proper high performance AOD I can tell you.. Took my 3 years to finally found what was necessary, I eventually got the parts from Silverfox Transmissions and it's currently at a local shop here. 8 out of 10 shops only know basic stuff and basic rebuilds, when it comes to high performance it's a whole different ball game. The guy from the shop here also adviced to update the forward and direct drums to the SONNAX type ( because the stock stamped steels are prone to failure and have weak points ), but currently I'm having a tech conversation about that with SilverFox and Sonnax, and will know next week what to do. Basically the stock AOD is a trans only used for low HP and torque applications. It's 2 piece input shaft design, and lockup converter and valve body are worthless even with a shift kit when it comes to higher hp.. BUT they can be build up to 1200 hp. Now i've updated the converter to a non lockup custom billet ( with reinforced pilot ), ONE piece input shaft, and a manual valve body ( which cures the pressure problems ). Internals are upgraded to later AODE/4R70W parts with Raybestos bleu plates and all the other little parts that are upgraded to. Silverfox claims this is good up to 700hp and 750TQ, but the local builder here questioned the drums, so I will look into that a little more, just want to be sure. I'd rather have an overkill build, than having to remove it AGAIN.

I don't think it's to hard after all but all the parts need to be in OEM condition. I found out my hinges where worn, that was basicall the problem the hood did NOT align properly. If you have a play there, all the other alignments are also out of specs automatically

Mart post us the pictures of the finished ZX here , I'm sure people are willing to see the pictures ?

Nicely done Mart.. Windscreen seems a pain in the arse... You will get it sorted out soon. You should sell the 300zx tt and restore a 240 ? I'm still not done with my cars either, will I ever be ?

Mostly all aftermarket seals use modern blended synthetic rubber that are to stiff, not like the old Original ( naturel ) rubber that was used on the seals.

A lot of aftermarket door seals for the Z are to thick, I found that problem to. I have a topic somewhere with the right kind of seal for it.

It will be better to put some extra liquid sealant ( RTV of however you call it in english ? ) in place before you put it all in, because in the olds days the seals didn't do their job very well, hence all the rusted out pieces.. But let the window guy decide..

That's a big problem for rust on these cars. 5 years ago an immitation front wind shield rubber was put into my 240Z at the paint shop. On some spots on the roof it's slowly letting some water through I can allready see on the paint almost microscopic bits. The original must have been better quality. Always a fight against rust with these Datsun's...?

@ Mart: good one Some pictures from yesterday with my mom's BMW Z3, fun car, but to small engine only 1.8. Paint and rims are not perfect on the Z3, but that's not my job to do ? When I picked up the 240 from the paint shop he said the rear deck lid was starting to get bad and have to replace it within 2 years. So I ordered a replacement panel from the US. Maybe next year together with the floor pans ?

Only thing I see is cars getting heavier and fatter and more hp to counter that. Why not go '' back to basics '' 1000kg car, with a modern 2.4 liter N/A and a 6 speed manual ? It's not all about the horsepower.. It's cool going up in numbers but eventually you end op with a 9 liter displacement Z car ? But sadly that's not possible because of modern safety regulations ? , requiring all that safety and electronic crap adding weight to the car.

Ah okay. That's what I thought so also. Let's assume that for now...

So comparing that to the other 2 pictures in my first post. This seems to be a different clutch ? Where there 2 types, or are the other ones for a colder climate maybe ? Or not specific S30 ? Maybe someone can clear this out ?

Even bare ( cast ) aluminium can have different finishes. A light coat of heat resistant mat paint from the factory would make sense. The inside of the cover obviously would be bare aluminium since the oil film wil protect it. And they wouldnt want to risk paint coming of on the inside would they But anyhow it's a good question..

To bad its a design flaw would love to have the correct metal fan on.. Will try to source the clutch and have it balanced. Keep the plastic fan on then for now...

You can see how long of a journey it is Mart... Lots of time and money but you will get there soon ? I Will come to take a visit when I have my summer holiday haha. When should visit some classic car shows and especially Japan classic sunday next year together with Both z's ...

Rebuild Hood hinges are on! Finally it's good again very happy with the result ?