bartsscooterservice

The door tag says 11/69, def worth saving imo ( 69's are even rarer than 70/71's ). I see alot of work and cash involved.

I agree it should be saved if possible. It looks very rot.. can't read Japanese but looks like it says L28 engine, if no original engine there it would be a problem for a correct restoration.

I see these quite often here, like the looks of the car !

A few friends of my brother have Cadillac's, one from the 60's with a big block, and one from the 70's also with a big block, and off course everything electric, those things are a dream to drive ! Both his friends and my friends drive American cars, if everybody is together here we could start a museum . We really don't care what people think, those cars from that era where just the best in luxury and comfort, plus we keep those cars alive, instead of a museum of rotting away. Yesterday my brother just got a Buick Elektra from the 70s.. big block again. Really nice car. Replacement car for his 73 Caprice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-HOLDEN-CALIBRA-YE-9-91-10-97-4-Cyl-2-0L-C20NE-C20XE-X20XEV-/161291300403?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item258db5ee33&vxp=mtr Opel ( GM ) fuel pumps work fine aswell, two connections to.

They had or still have that mentality here to...

I'd love to see more of these Z projects from 3rd world countries. Amazed at the skill they have sometimes to turn a wreck into something restored with a limited budget.

I'd think that would be a little optimistic...

I don't know, I didn't want to go to the hassle of taking the tail light apart. The old one came of pretty easily, I just put a few small dots of sealant ( glue like ) on the back of the new ones and pushed it on, one night drying and I was done. If I want I can get it of easily with a small wire, and remove the old sealant. Much easier imo, but not the correct way. But who's going to see it anyway. By the way my name is Bart just like the company

I have ordered them from him on Ebay Pics in my topic ( post 323 ) : http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/45423-my-datsun-240z/page-17#entry470465

maybe the chrome was bad and they decided to paint it ?

I measured mine with the original 4 speed at the gps, the speedo is pretty accurate a little bit less at higher speeds. GPS said 180 km/h doesn't want to go much faster, that's about 110mph. ( I can push it a little more, but the engine has no more power above 6k, original that is, no point pushing it further from there ). MartZedCars ( who's on the forum here ), who lives a province away from me has the euro 5 speed version, and his does 220+ km/h on the speedo, at least that's correct to the figure of 125 mph, that should be +- 200 km/h then..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-2-DOOR-COUPE-/400929206786?forcerrptr=true&hash=item5d593e3202&item=400929206786

I don't know

Yeah but this was not the US then ( or later on when they got the 5 speed gearboxes from the 280Z ), only the EU and JAPAN 240z 5 speed gearboxes could reach that speed, the 4 speed is about 110 mph max.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Car-Visors-Signed-By-Mr-K-And-Matsuo-NOW-NO-RESERVE-PRICE-/161711044789?hash=item25a6bab8b5&vxp=mtr

Did you use the right gaskets between the carbs and the manifold ? Set the stationairy idle with the idle screws ( not the fast idle one ).

Got some problems with the paint on the roof ( where the sunroof was ) and the car had to go back to the paint shop. But it's finally fixed now. Took 6 hours yesterday to put a sealant on the paint ( hate that job ). An expert from the Insurance company is coming within 2 weeks to put a new valuation on the car for the Insurance in case something might happen, just a bit of piece of mind

Better drop those needles in the trash and buy some decent ones... My god looks like a hamster has been eating on those needles.. You could ask Ztherapy for a right set of needles for your application.

Looks like it's Original and not been messed with. Seems a pretty solid car on the few pictures I can see, but could me mistaken. If solid. I'd just clean it out and leave it alone ! Don't restore it nut and bolt. Just make it technically in good condition, maybe new seals and a big maintenance on the engine and carbs.

Yeah, then you'd be better of with Stolze, he has nothing under 12k but they are much better condition than the stuff E&R is selling.. There's a M50B20 lying in the shed here rotting away. Great motors, but worth nothing here, since everybody wants to drive eco crap.

Prices are going up now

Personally, I didn't use any book, just the stuff that I didn't know I searched on the internet. Also the FSM helped alot when rebuilding parts.

It's going up on Hagerty to now... 30K condition 2

It's like they only showed have the work in the video. And Mike needs to stop slamming those doors. In the end result about the costs it's also not right, they forget alot, so they don't actually make a profit of it. Didn't understand the camshaft regrind either, they could have just bought an aftermarket one, if they don't want to go stock. Many things that I found odd, but hey it's a television show..