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The floors seem jacked in to.. To bad about the custom " mud flap fenders " , this is only more work getting the fenders back to Original for a body shop. Overal I think the shell is okay for a restoration, we've seen much worse. But I agree with the rest, you have to dump loads of money into this to get it back to a decent quality. Skip it and search for something else imo.

You don't, you die.... ::

Are the valve clearances all good ?

Made a few pics with my phone yesterday

It passed the road approval check today haha ! Only needed a frame number into the chassis are required here, but not a big deal. It wil be on the road in a few weeks ::

Go US style, I kept the original style to, wanted to go the stainless ones first. Make sure you do a GOOD review on the chrome shop... I made a mistake with that one myself and had to let them re do it, because it wasn't done righ , flaking off from the inside ( more like they where in a hurry.. ) . These bumpers need more experience than the thicker US classic car bumpers, they are very thin and flex easily. Make sure the chrome they use is HARD chrome and not show chrome, because it will not hold. ( That's what I was told by chrome shops here ).

According to what I have read in the MSD manual, the ballast resistor is only needed if you use breaker points.

Problem seems in the ignition. I think it's in the distributor, because after you adjusted the point gap it runs good again for a short while, like you describe above.

Seems my ignition guess from last wednesday was in the right direction. Looked familiar because I saw the engine shaking, and it's a sign of bad ignition. But like I said, and like you describe above: you see a spark and think it's okay. But it won't fire onder compression in the cylinders ! Good thing you sorted it out before the car event ! ::

No way your getting a 1 cm spark, maybe with msd pro mag, but not with a stock like system. The spark should be steady between the tip and the center electrode, and not interupt. Not big, but clearly visible.

I would not use silicone, but only rubber hoses that are fuel rated.

Do you have spare parts ? If so put an original distributor with points on it for now, so you can go to the car show that's coming. A yellow spark is always no-go, a blue spark is good, but even then it could not be firing under load in the cylinders, i've seen that many times. When you check for spark, it should be fat blue sparks, and the spark should stay in/around the middle of the electrode and not on the side.

The engine is the 351 windsor. Those bumpers are massive ! But that whole car is build around safety, we had it up the ramps, and it's a very heavy box frame, over that is the acrylic body panels.. SV1 " Safety Vehicle 1 " Haha yeah do not mix beer with Ebay haha we found that out .. ::

One night me and a friend where talking after work with a few beers about the Bricklin SV1 that was in the show Gas Monkey garage. We thought what a cool car, and after some beers went searching on Ebay just for fun ( at first ), and found 2 ( none now ). One in New York.. The guy asked 6.5 k and for fun we said let's try 3k... ( still just for fun not serious buying ) after 30 minutes we got a response back and we had to buy the car ! Then adventure began taking it home, after a long wait.. this is what we got ! It's " pretty " rare .. about 5 or 6 in Europe here according to Wiki, well this might be number 6. We managed to get everything running, and it's going for road worthy check coming thursday ! People call the DeLorean special, but this was 10 years before the DeLorean ! And it's doors are operated pneumatic instead of by hand with the DeLorean ! Just thought share it with you guys..

Id go with madkaw, seems you have no voltage to the coil for ignition now...

Remove a few spark plug wires, and the wire from the coil to the dizzy... Thieves won't have a set of those when they break in to your car..

That looks good !!

You can use rubber gasoline line they use for lawnmowers, scooters etc, works fine for the bowl to carb connection.

I remember mine where stuck as hell. I eventually heated up the housing first and then with the right bearing puller it came out easily. My advice would be don't wack it cold ! Only if you have a shop press and the whole thing of the car.

I think most people confuse exhaust fumes, with gasoline smell. I had the problem to ( windows up and down ), and it went away after I replaced all the fuel lines and gaskets on and near the fuel tank, including the filler neck and gas cap seal. No more smell since. I don't believe it can be exhaust fumes.

I think the problem is in the distributor, because you said in post 1 that when it starts acting up, and you check the points, it runs fine again for a while...

Seems more like an ignition/valve problem to me. The engine is shaking to much running stationairy.

Got the 240Z up on the bridge for regular check, and treated " to be " rust spots and greased everything, filled up tranny oil. Also did points and new plugs. Ready to go again.

If the tank drained without any debris coming out, I wouldn't think that's the problem. Like some suggest you could also see some of the inside of the tank when you remove the fuel sending unit. You could try another coil. You have to make sure the distributor rotor has no play, and the lobes are greased with the right grease for points, are else they will wear out pretty quick.

You could drain the tank with the bolt, and use an inspection camera with light and look into the tank ( to the bottom ) from the filler neck, easiest way to see if there is junk in there, before you remove the tank completely. Maybe it's not necessary