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I used to have that problem to, it turned out the carbs where worn out, basically it got to much fuel, and fooled the plugs after a while and it started bogging etc.. misfire. But since your carbs are rebuilded.. Maybe the coil is burning the points, or there is something wrong in the distributor..

Bumpers not on yet. They still managed to do the 4 bullhorns wrong, finally got everything back yesterday ! Anyhow I coated the inside first today to protect them against rusting from the inside out. It's a rubber coating ( I used it before in the cowl ) that can withstand every element and temperature, they guarantee 40 years. More pics to follow when they are on !

Yes it is..., nice house to

Uhm and how does that look ? Petronix ? No points ? Timing with vacuum unhooked, I would try something like 5 BTDC, hook up the vacuum and blip the throttle, should go no further than max 15 to 17 BTDC on the timing mark on the pulley ( use timing light ).

That's a nice 240Z you got there ! I bet you can't wait hahaha :: !

I used aftermarket oil/fuel resistant hose, but it was tough getting it in. Looks like this http://img.diytrade.com/cdimg/2021928/31679391/0/1359009251/Fuel_hose_oil_hose.jpg If you want more OEM look, you can go for nylon braided oil/fuel line, like this http://autofittings-uk.com/shop/en/nylon-braided-hose/143-an-6-an6-nylon-braided-oil-fuel-line-stealth-black-hose-6-meter-autobahn88-hs026-a06.html

:: okay !

We can only stop this is we say no to cheap labour stuff. Last time I went shopping for some clothes, noticed almost on every label things like " made in Bangladesh or Turkey " etc, knowing it's made by a bunch of slaves for a few bucks, it just doesn't feel right buying that kind of stuff.. But when did somebody look at a label where it's made or ever think any further than that ? People just don't care..

I believe you can acces the lever from the inside, you have to remove the cardboard panel. I think the lock is not working, so it's not pushing the lever, it's a very simple mechanism.

After a long wait (beginning of januari, 2nd attempt ) I finally got the chrome bumpers back. First time they messed it up and the chrome was coming off ( flaking ) from the inside of the bumpers. Hoping to put them on next weekend. Oh boy ! :: Also installed a new speedo cable. ( not the OEM one but aftermarket ). Never been able to reach a speedo cable that easy under the dash ! I managed to pick up a set of used but very nice door panels for about 150 euro here in The Netherlands ! They where not cracked and intact, also the chrome is still for 90% on it. My door panels where one of the things on my " to do " list. It looks better now... The guy where I bought it from had a european 240Z but it was to rotten out to restore, so he was parting it out. ( pics will follow later )

If that's bringing 21k, that means mine is worth even more, but I would never get these figures here in the EU i'm afraid, they are not populair here, as the US cars do. It seems if I would sell my car back to the homemarket in the US it would bring more money.

Search for a better dash, that's what I would be doing

Yeah. I recently bought new tail light trim from a guy from Ebay, I believe he advertised on this forum also. Was described as " perfect re-chrome" , after recieving it, it's really nice indeed, but there are minor imperfections on the chrome if I look closely.. I guess nothing is really perfect..even for a decent amount of money. I needed them anyhow, so had no other option really, and I think the people who sell them know that really well..

B6ES is fine, and they are the cheapest. You don't need the P and R letters. I find the R ( Resistor ) plugs don't run fine on older engines. I use the B6ES also on my 240Z, works great. The plugs are pre gapped from the factory, I believe 0.8 don't need to do anything on that, just instal them from the box.

Yeah it will roll back nicely under the pedals when you brake :: and that's when you need it when you crash

The vintage mag wheels with the fatter tires still looks best on the older 240z's imo

Chas ( Eurodat ) came to the rescue on saturday and we managed to repair part of the wiring on the 1970 Mustang, thanks again Chas I will try to repair some more in my free time.

Well the future seems ****ed up anyhow. I need to last at least another 30 years before I can go with retirement and get the heck out of here.

very nice work !

I bought the 1970 Mustang Fastback, it's a solid car from California. Needs some minor work but nothing fancy. Also replaced the worn out seals on my rear lights and replaced the center trim the old ones where in bad shape, especially the left one was flaking.. A few hours work, but the result is so much better.

Did it go to a fan, or just a rich guy who bought it as an investement ?

Should have tested the factory float and jet settings first. Now it's hard to have a reference point.

Use a timing light, and set the timing around 5 BTDC with the vacuum advance disconnected. Then connect it, and hit the thottle and watch the timing marks advance on the pulley. It should read somewhere around 15 to 17 advanced. Now you are running 15 without the vacuum advance, it's advancing way to much imo.

If they are brand new, did you change anything to the stock factory float height and jetting ?

Uhm, it's only because the exhaust valve tends to get hotter, so they keep some more play in it ( hot expands ) But 0.10 for all valves works fine.