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That's alot and it's a 73 also, not totally original , but would they actually go for that amount ?

mmmm...that's alot more.. maybe here it will go for 14 to 15k. Maybe it also depends on how populair the car is in that country ?

Datsun Z Series | eBay

bad fuel ? Check spark, ignition timing and fuel supply first. Are the carburetors not overflowing ?

There are just a handfull of early Z cars here in The Netherlands. It was not that populair here then in the United States back then. My dad had one in the 70's here, and he said he almost never saw another 240Z back in the days here..

I really have no idea , Japanese classic cars still don't seem to hold much value here, maybe the same situation as in the US ? I see Mustangs and Corvette's going for much higher prices, even a " project " will go for 8 to 10 k euro. I went to Stolze last time, and they asked 16k for a '' project '' C3 corvette from 1972 :S Don't know about othern Western countries, but I don't think much of a difference. It's going to get the roof removed and new paint this winter, which is now a minus factor if I would sell it, which I won't haha. We do have a new classic car rule here since last year, anything over 40 years old doesn't pay road tax, so cars from 1974 or earlier will be worth more here.

The center caps on the 280ZX wheels where all gone, I bought new ones from total z parts, after some bargaining I got them for a good price.

Look up my post 39 in that topic. These are perfect and are not expensive, I got them at an Industrial rubber seal supplier. It just a clamp on seal, push in place.. only the ends need to be glued together.

Sometimes you just can't get it loose what ever you try and have to replace the part. It's amazing how stuck things can go.. I had to use a 4 meter pipe on an m16 nut last week to break it free, my heaviest impact wrenches of 1200nm couldn't break it free.

It that case it seems normal and there's nothing to worry about ?

I found this topic, I think'everythings good to go http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/38503-240z-temperature-always-over-half.html

great progress ! I would use a bottle of mequairs ultimate compound and some towels, spent an afternoon polishing it up, and that paint will look way better , worked great on mine.

I think it's fine, there's some resistance in there, it stops quickly when I spin it with my hand.

Oil looks good on the dipstick, exhaust does not smoke as far as I can see. It does cool a bit more now. At least it does not run so hot anymore, like when I had 2 days ago. Where does the temp needle on the dash meter normally stay ? In the middle ?

Okay.. Yesterday up on opening the radiator cap, I noticed the coolant level to low in the radiator, some must have evaporated ? I did a simple thing first, I went to the local auto parts store and got a can of Wyns coolant system flush. Followed the instructions and flushed it, then filled it with new coolant. I took it for a drive this morning it was allready 30c. The temp meter stayed a fair bit lower, let's say between 1/2 and 3/4. Will take it for a drive into Germany this afternoon, see what it will do..

Yeah.. it does cool best so far when driving at higher speeds, to me that looks like a radiator problem. I'm going to try to flush it out..see what it does.

@ jonathan: my dad said about the same thing yesterday, flush the radiator with acid. @ Stanley: I will have a look @ Zed head: the oil pressure reads ok. @ Chas: going to check the radiator today Thermostat was changed last year, but it could be. I'm going to check a few things today. Yesterday was a hot day around 28c, and on idle the needle basically got all the way into the red, only when driving on the highway it got a bit cooler, but still very hot like a little over 3/4. When the engine is running idle, I can feel the fan sucking the air when I hold my hand in front of the radiator, I assume the fan is working properly ? My first thought would be radiator, because simply it hasn't been replaced either flushed so far..

Yes the pump was replaced last year, everything seemed fine on the inside.

My oem radiator is not cooling enough, especially on the highway when driving above 75 mph for longer than 5 minutes it gets to hot, the needle on the dash goes almost all the way to the right. I want to keep the Original radiator instead of an aluminium one, I have found a good radiator shop, but they charge 350 EURO for re-coring ex tax. Would this be worth it ? The better aluminium radiators including shipping will be the same price or more, only the cheaper aluminium aftermarket radiators would be a cheaper option right now. What would you guys advice ? Or is there anyone here who has a good oem 240z radiator for sale willing to ship overseas ? Gr Bart

Very nice Z ! Is that rear over rider bar normal, it looks to big ? Mine is different.

Yes Chas is right, please put a new master brake cylinder, it isn't worth the risk... If you start bleeding my advice is don't open the bleeders on the master cylinder, only with the front calipers and rear wheel cylinders. Fill up the reservoir and open up the front 2 bleeding screws first. Then gently pump ( use brake pedal ) the fluid into the lines and calipers, note:keep the reservoir filled, untill it comes out of the bleeding screws then close them, repait with the rear. Then when all beelding screws close you should allready have brake pressure, a little more bleeding is needed then, but that's the quickest way to get the air out, or of course you could get a vacuum bleeder..

Use the page from the FSM and do it yourself ( if possible ) or find a real garage that knows what they are doing. We do know that your brake is not releasing properly, there are many things that can cause that.

Best moment ? Mmmm... I usually get comments or thumbs up wherever I go, that's pretty cool . Not much early Z car around here, mostly European vintage cars and American.

It would be better to have no drain holes at all. Air+water = rust It looks like you might need a new undercoating aswell

I think you allready mentioned the most important things yourself...the most important one: finding a solid car to begin with. The costs to restore are usually higher then when you buy a 240Z that's alllready 90% done like members above here also say.