bartsscooterservice

If your going to mod it anyhow, doesn't really matter then. Take the car with the less rust.. a " solid " body is half the work already.

When we have the wind from the south, sometimes sand all the way from the Sahara drops down on everything here. It happened a few weeks ago, my entire car was covered in fine sand... and that's over 1000's of KM of travel for the sand! Looks like this: http://cdn.images.express.co.uk/img/dynamic/128/590x/secondary/143092.jpg

needs ALOT of work Datsun Z Series Black | eBay

Datsun Z Series Z | eBay

Some immitation brand points me be crap and wear out quicker...

Last time I still had a knocking sound when braking coming from the rear, I allready had replaced both the shoes and drums. I found that I had to clean the glide surfaces on the backing plate, and put some copper grease. No more knocking since then. So if you have this problem, your brake shoes might nog be sliding properly on the backing plate.

Yeah, also amazed me I got a reply back so quick.. I didn't even count on a reaction to my letter at first. @ Alter: thanks yeah it was sure fun taking it out on a vacation. Only thing I have to do next week or the week after is to drop the gas tank, and replace the filler neck and fuel lines, also paint the tank. I have ordered these parts last week in the US.

I've considered an e-type, but still went with the 240Z, why ? Although the British make great engines, to my personal taste, I just don't like the styling of the E-type much, the only things I like is the engine, bonnet, spoke wheels and the steering wheel, the rest just looks weird to me, the 3 windshield wipers in front look ridiculous. I like the styling of the Toyota 2000GT much more personally.

I would take the door out of the car, strip all parts away, strip the paint of, and weld in a new plate, bondo and respray then. Or maybe even easier: get a good second hand door and respray to match color.

I think that's a personal thing, I have no problems with my stock 2 speed wipers.

Here are some pictures the first owner gave me last week by e-mail.

It's old...you have to take off the transmission to find the problem.

Make sure you put them in the correct height. Don't rush, look carefully how the old floor pan is seated, to weld in the new one correctly. By the way I found the main reason why all the floor pans rust out: the water in the cowl area is leaking through the seam ( which dries up and doesn't seal anymore over time ), into the car on the floorpans, rusting them out slowly, make sure you tackle that problem to. I had my floor pans reapaired, only to find water in the car again.. if not tackled this problem, your new floorboard will be rusting out again. I used a rubber brush on sealant in my cowl to stop the leaks.

Yes.. I noticed a price increase to lately. It's a good thing. I think you mean this article http://www.latimes.com/business/autos/la-fi-hy-japanese-car-collectors-20140523-story.html

@ blue: at my work on scooters, I sometimes find the problem that you see a spark outside the engine, but they spark is to weak to fire under compression in the engine. Then when changing the coil it fires right up. Makes you believe you have a good spark.. I also had when using brake cleaner fluid sometimes it fires a few seconds with a bad coil, because it ignites more easily than gasoline.

I agree. Really like it, also the fact he's keeping it as much original as possible.

I use unleaded euro95 here on my Z with E31 head. Octane rating - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia To convert that to US rating it should be 90 or 91.. I don't know what fuel grade they had in the past when these cars came out of the factory but I suspect a lower octane fuel.

Yeah it was a fun trip, really nice landscape in parts of Germany and Czech Republic..

I'm just back from a 1 week holiday in the Czech Republic , visited Prague also. The last day we went to South/West Germany, Sinsheim Technical Museum, very nice ! I went with the 240Z no problems, the car ran fine all the way. ( more than 2000 km total) Here's some pictures..

Well... look what I got in the mailbox today: I was indeed the first owner of the car in question. It was one of the first in Kansas City and was purchased from Overland Park Datsun. I traded in my 1969 440 RT Dodge Charger for it. Car was never wrecked. We moved in the Spring after purchase to New Rochelle \., New York. There we had to have the 3rd gear synchro repaired under warranty. That was the only mechanical issue with the car. Rust along the rocker panels soon appeared, but we had it repaired and dar fully repainted after moving back to Kansas City in 1976 then sold the car to a dealer friend of mine in Leavenworth, Kansas ROUND 1978 - 79. Guess my friend drove it until 1987 or Mr. Campbell is not the second buyer. In New York the car was maintained by Bob Sharp Datsun. Sharp was an amazing race car driver and won the C production class of SCCA in the Z cars for many years. Hos son is Scott Sharp that races the Patron car in the Rolex series. Hope this info helps? Regards, Bob

Remove the cowl and take a look, there's usually alot of stuff lying around there, blocking also rain water flow to the exits.

The drawing above is in MM. I used a Industrial supplier for rubber seals. It's been a year so far, and had no leaks, and doors shut easily.

I used a universal rubber seal just a few bucks really, it's in this topic http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/45552-door-slamming-issue-fixed-finally.html