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Nils from JDMjunkies ( he's on the forum here ) has one for sale . I want a shop to rebuild the gearbox anyhow. I know it will cost money Is this the correct gearbox?

I don't think your rings are damaged, not enough oil on the cylinder walls will give lower readings on compression test. Since your block was full of coolant. Build everything back together with new gaskets, and fill the system with coolant, that's the only way to test it. It might have been your head gasket like you say.

Still had no time to get new tires. I did found out the wheel seems to center itself on the conical ring, that's on the nut. But it's not a flat ring, that falls into a groove, like the 3rd in the picture below. I can feel a small conical edge in the rim to. But not sure if this is centering the wheel correctly.

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Exactly !

First of all, the new relationship nr1. The Z: A plan, and motivation !

It must be carbs, carburetors don't like fuel pressure, he's putting a fuel pump for injection engines on a carb system... Carbs don't like to much pressure, or else it will force more fuel through the needle and the fuel bowl wil overflow and drown the engine. That's what he's reporting.. soaked plugs and fuel dripping out of the carb. Try a stock mechanical fuel pump... I don't believe it's engine timing. And a 4 stroke engine can run without an exhaust manifold, so that doesn't matter really.

The wet plugs on the triples and the more dry plugs on the su's, tell something about a fuel issue though. But wet plugs also means way to much fuel on the other hand ( or lack of ignition ). I don't know about electrial fuel pumps in combination with carbs though. Have you tried the stock mechanical one with the su's ? How are your spark plug cables? I still think it's the carbs though, they can come very accurate. Ask the previous owner what fuel pump he used on the engine with the triples.

oh yeah wifes/gf's.. that's why I am single . What was the saying again? Can't live with or without them..U2 had a song from that. Keep going, you'll get there !

Putting a later model 5 speed gearbox in it, is not what I wan't to do to this classic . I can try putting an add, maybe it helps..? I mean a euro gearbox must have survived somewhere..

What fuel pump where they running on the triples when you tested the engine before buying it? What did you change to the engine in your car? The fuel still okay quality?

anyone know if itˊs possible to find an original 5 speed 240z gearbox here in europe? And if itˊs worth the extra overdrive? currently my US 4 speed wonˊt go much faster than 100 mph, and by then my revs are to high, not nice for highway driving. I feel the car has enough power, but lacking more gears.. iˊd be more better for the engine and fuel economy if I had an extrfa gear. Iˊd rather not put 280zx gearbox on it, but keep it original.

I still think it's carbs though... I found this topic, looks similiar problem: Engine revs up then dies upon starting within seconds - 521 - Ratsun Forums How much pressure and fuel rate is the stock fuel pump giving and your RX7 pump? I would try a stock mechanical fuel pump, and clean the SU's again, use new gaskets, torque everything tight, and try again.

Forget timing marks, pull the nr 1 plug, put a small screwdriver in the hole, and rotate the crankshaft cw with a ratchet and 27mm socket, look at the cam lobes to determine TDC, and you can feel with the small screwdriver the piston stopping for a moment @ TDC, stop there. The mark TDC with a dot of paint on the pulley, and recheck the distributor timing for nr 1. If that's all okay, the problem is somewhere else. The engine revs going up an down, is that without touching the throttle?

Chris, any results with cleaned carbs? Bart

Compression ratio matters, BMW straight 6 engins run around 10.5 to 1 ratio for instance. But I don't think it will matter alot of hp, the horsepower gain in NA is to make it breath and the delivery towards the gearbox as easy as possible, a heavier flywheel will reduce top rpm hp.

I have to agree with that, specially for the doors, makes closing them so much easier.

If your bowls are full it doesn't mean it's functioning good. What I read from your answer, sound alot like it's flooding the engine, to much fuel.. flooring the pedal will give just enough air to let it run. Clean the carbs !

It could be the carbs... to much fuel or not enough fuel ( dirty carb from sitting to long ). Have you checked the plugs when the engine has been running for like 20 seconds at 4k rpm? Compression test was okay, so it's either spark or fuel problem...

It doesn't center on the hub, but on the bolts, but the problem must be in the wheels, I swopped front to back, and it did alot towards the vibration..it's alot less. So will try take it to a specialized shop this week if possible. New tires for sure, can't take the risk. I got some stock needles for the carbs from a friend, and put them in, also turned the mixture screws more lean, so will see what it does overtime. Also RF brake caliper was leaking, and used a rebuild kit to fix it. 2 small things done today

2 washers on the big bolt, and a paper gasket on the float bowl, I used liquid gasket, works so far.

Different to explain in English, but they are not self centered bolts.

Blue, thanks for the tip I checked and 1 wheel seems the holes are worn out, when I put it on the hub, and put the bolts on and then loosen up a bit, I can move it up and down,left and right a little bit, while the other 3 didn't. I changed wheels front to back, and it did help a little. The steering wheel and the car is steady to about 50 mph, after that the steering wheel starts to shake and vibrate, also I can feel it through the car. Must be a tire/rim problem... I will take the car to a shop that's specialized in rim repair and also let them put new tires on right away, these ones are from 2002 to old.. and they might help with the problem. The plugs fooled again today, I will try to get stock needles.

Alan you have any more information about the shaking? Maybe it can help my find the problem.. I just checked all the bolts on the underside of the car, driveline and engine, and some where loose. And I lubed all the grease points. It did help a little again with the vibration, but it's still there. And about the carbs, any idea if the previous owner swopped needles? Bart

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