bartsscooterservice

have you tried a loose thick cable from the + of the battery directly to the starter, to see if the engine is cranking? If so, it's somewhere in the wiring after the relay.

seafoam won't help. Clean with air pressure pistol. You might have deposits in the carb from sitting still for so long. That's a problem in the place where the needle goes into the seat, it will not close properly and leak.

I bet she does Okay, so the auto parts stores couldn't get a rebuild kit for the master clutch cylinder, only the slave cilinder. So with alot of searching, I found a new one: My brother helped bleeding the clutch, and ...smooth as silk now ! Bart

The only thing that horrifies me is what would happen with that strut tower in a frontal crash....

awesome work!

I'm not good in English, but I never had to use a hammer to get seals in... It's important to use alot of oil on the seal when installing ( or else you will damage the rubber, and it will be damaged on first start of the engine ), I usually just drip it into the oil. Then push the seal in place with a little clockwise rotation with your fingers. Some seals might need a little help, but very gently with the right driving tool. I also seen alot of seals pushed to deep. Harder seals aren't always better, usually I prefer the softer versions.

I'd say no. You mean it doesn't keep running when you close the choke? Your float bowl exit might be clogged... or the upper part where the needle goes into the seat.

I did mine, and didn't have any gasket kit... The float bowl is besides the carb, then feeds the fuel through the hose to the nozzle. It could be your float level to high or choke sticking what Captain zero is saying above. Clean the nozzle very well, so that the choke moves up and down freely. Clean the float bowl to, and the seat where the needle goes in, check the needle tip. I used special sealant for the float bowl, and it's holding fine.

I see a good middle piece of the rear bumper, need that one badly !

and Americans complain about their " Gallon " (3,78 litre ) prices ... I wish we would have their prices, a fill up would cost me at least half then.

little update: I took the master cilinder from the clutch off, but decided just as well take the slave cilinder off to. Now both will get cleaned and new seals, brought them away for rebuild.

sorry double post

75% of fuel price here is goverment taxes.. If I fill up in Germany saves me 18 euro cents a litre. Fuel prices are even higher up there right?

good luck ! I think once you got the transmission and engine dropped in, things will go pretty quick

Thanks! Okay, so today I took the Z for another drive to get alot of new parts.. points,rotor, distributor cap, etc basically all for the ignition ( allready changed the wires which made good difference ). On my way, halfway the Z began sputtering like madness, and was almost unable to drive. I managed to get back home somehow... I replaced all the ignition parts, and now it runs like a dream, and goes beyond 5 k rpm, which before it didn't Also put a new oil pressure sender unit on the block, and I finally have oil pressure showing on the dash now ! Next problem for now: it's hard to get into gear and grinds. I have taken the master clutch cylinder off for new cups. And will see what it does. I don't want to wreck the gearbox from this old lady.

yes..stock 71

I also still have this problem, when driving away, it's hard to get moderate rpm increase for driving away.. Is the problem the linkage 240dkw is describing above? I'm trying to understand why there is a dead point in the gas pedal on low rpm... I suppose it worked well when new from factory?

Yeah I think so.. it was standing at least 1 year with Stolze, and I believe it stood in the garage with Alan for a while as well.

This one is nice to Nissan 350Z Commercial - 240Z to 350Z - YouTube

The choke is working correctly, and can move freely up and down. If I read the plugs the mixture looks good. I don't need choke to start it, just use the starter motor 2 times and it starts. Just filled 38 liters of 91 octane again to it in Germany ( cheaper gas ). So I'm assuming it's a little more optimistic, maybe 21 mpg, I will see what the car does on fuel economy when driven more overtime. Yesterday I let a local tire shop balance the front wheels ( took him 10 minutes to each wheel, and we got a 0 to 0 reading ), and they will do the rear wheels next saturday. In the beginning I had quite a vibration above 70 mph, but after some driving that almost seems gone now, weird?

If I fill up the Z, the meter doesn't go all the way to F. But yesterday I filled it up, and drove about 200 km, and when back the meter was a little away from half a tank. So assuming the meter is partly correct, it will consume 19 miles to the gallon, that's quite alot isn't it? When in neutral and outside the car, I step on the pedal, there's black fumes... so I'm assuming the carbies run rich... or worn out jets?

damn must hurt ! I also regularly hurt myself , 2 weeks ago I was drilling with a very small drill, and put to much pressure on it, it snapped, and guess what was there..my left hand thumb. It went to the bone and a piece of skin from my thumb up near the nail was off. Now it's healed again almost, but another scar for the collection

Try here.. 1 litre euro95 for 1.73 in town, and 1.83 highway prices to fill up the Z will cost me about 90 euro...and that's gone very fast

I replaced the B7ES plugs for BPR6ES ( stock ), but this is how they looked like:

I got b7es plugs in it now, the core is dark white, and the metal edge of the plug is a dark/a bit sooted. which indicates rich idle but good condition on half to full throttle. But I will get the b6es plugs to match the stock heat range. I didn't have any other plugs in storage now. It stumbles a bit on cold start, but after 20 seconds it idles fine, and no smoke once warm. I don't need choke to start it, and it's pretty cold now ! I do notice the engine has trouble when above 5000 rpm, could also be bad ignition though..