bartsscooterservice

wow pretty fast !

I will let them make a rattle can, and spray it on to my engine, see what it does. This must be the right color then.

Well it's up to Mason offcourse what he wants to do with it. Whatever it will be, keep us updated

So I need to give them BS18C39, correct? Search Colour - 18 C 39

Dropping in a bigger engine is easier, but tuning the L24 is way more fun and original, my personal opinion. Bart

Really like the dark green color ! Looks nice on a Z. Keep the L series engine, don't ruin a classic by dropping in a v8, my personal opinion... The Z is very light, and the L24 engine is basically perfect if you tune it, it is fast and fun enough for road racing.. good cam, more compression, bigger valves, triple carbs, better ignition, lighter flywheel... it will be fun. Bart

If you have a piece that contains the original color let me know, I will take it to the paint shop to examine the color. We can bulk, but I only need 2 cans or so.. Bart

Welcome here , some pretty good advice above from fellow members.

Strange there is no factory engine paint code for Datsun to be found, like they just used some random paint color from the shelve.. I can order cans from the US, but the shipping costs are the price of 2 cans, so I'd rather get some paint locally..mmm

Got the camera today: Also with it came adapters you can plug onto it, like a mirror ( to look into dead spots ), a magnetic pick up too, and a hook type pick up tool. The hose is flexable but stays strong in position you bend it. The led light in front is dim-able. This is the cheap version, so it has no recording of usb connection.

Interesting topic, I also still can't get that doors to close normally without moderate slamming... And I believe the passenger side door is also not lining up below. I cleaned all the hinges and replaced the dovetails, but still there. So reading this it can either be the seals that are to thick or the hinges that are worn. I will try when I get the car back.

Well show us a picture if you can, always nice ! Welcome here to. Google says RLS means 260Z..

Ah yeah you guys in the states have 120 volts I forgot.. It should be more then enough for welding on the Z, heavier ones are only for more penetration on thicker metal, which you won't see on anything Z related, like tlorber says. @ Homeboy: If your planning on a future investement i'd go for the 220v... Here I use intermag 250 amp 380 volt with 0.8 wire, but it's a bit overkill for sheet metal work, I need to set it on very low settings.

Mine was done to by the previous owner, but seems to didn't add enough foam filling in the seat. Maybe I will do something about that later on, but other things first

Yeah it's crazy taxes.. I bought dovetails from UK and US... you'd say UK is cheaper, but they where twice as expensive due taxes..

If failed today on some points for the APK ( road safety check ). I drove the car back to the company that has done the work, and they will repair those points it failed, so next week i'll go back again, and then it should be fine. Mostly the things I need to do when it's home, are engine (bay ) work. And some more on rust protection.

Don't know about the welder brands in the US. But in here you have 220v and 380 volts (2 fase )welders. 220v should be fine for you, and with a 0.8 wire. And to max 135 amp should be enough. I should go for a well known brand, rather than go cheap with welders.

Nice Z! Like those fender mirrors

Seems like it needs a smaller main jet then. I do think if stock is heat range 6, and your slamming it on the track high rpm, heat range 7 would be better. I'm not an expert in this, but would'n't a stronger amp ignition be better for a more complete burn ?, it can make a difference in spark color output..

I agree with you John, but cutting up my Z for a ground up restoration is not what I was looking for at this moment, the body seems pretty good condition overall, yes there might be rust inside the panels, so that's why I was thinking of slowing that process down at the least? On the bottle of Valvoline ML says : changes within 24 hours in an amber colored, waxy, semi-hard transparent film. Displaces water quickly and penetrates into the smallest area's. Penetrates deeply into the rust. If I do nothing I'm sure the process will go even quicker, since moisture and air is free to continue eating up on that unprotected rust on the surface and eating it's way out of the car slowly.

Yeah..isn't it a sad thing... Look how they molested this old girl ( it's not a Z but the same point.. ): http://www.wired.com/autopia/wp-content/gallery/project-detroit/01-project-detroit.jpg

So maybe just the US..? I'm not the expert in this to. Wiki says about the 240Z: Four-speed manual transmission: 3.364:1 (37:11) Five-speed manual transmission: 3.90:1 (39:10) (not available in US) Best thing for GeoJoe is to check the gearbox, and we'll know

I agree. I like reading forums like HybridZ, but personally I would never do that to any classic car. Although Japanese like the tuning scene alot, bet they never thought of Americans dropping v8's in there. Maybe the biggest threat asides rust to a classic Z is people doing hybrids.

Looking good there homeboy, keep us updated

I think if it's that bad like holes start popping out everywhere, and huge rust flakes it sure will have no more effect, but if you start to have light surface rust on the inside, it should be worth spraying it with some kind of a blocker? That waxy sticky stuff i'm planning on spraying on, must sure do something on light rust? If not then why it's advertised? Rust is a process that keeps going, but if you seal of the oxygen en water supply the best you can, it must be able to slow down the process quite a bit? Wiki: Rust formation can be controlled with coatings, such as paint, lacquer, or varnish that isolate the iron from the environment. Large structures with enclosed box sections, such as ships and modern automobiles, often have a wax-based product (technically a "slushing oil") injected into these sections. Such treatments usually also contain rust inhibitors. Loose or thick rust must be removed before anti-rust wax like Waxoyl or a similar product is used. Wax does not penetrate spot welded seams or thick rust well. A penetrating anti-rust product like WD-40 followed by anti-rust wax can be more effective.