bart

I am hoping someone may be able to give me a little guidance with the problem I am having. I installed the petronix ignition, some accel performance wires, splitfire plugs and a flamethrower coil. Well since then the car has been running terrible, the exhaust ihas a dark color to it, ALL the plugs have been fouling up incredibly fast. And there have been some backfires at the carbs. I left the condensor near the coil on there, the petronix manual said it should be fine for every day driving. I checked the timing which seemed to be ok. If I remove the condensor what do I do with some of the other wires attached to it, such as the green and white one. If there are any questions I could awnser that may explain the situation better please ask me, I am in a tough spot here. Bart

I do not think there was a dilter on those tubes. It took me a while to clear out the bloackage. The air compressor did not really work until I was able to break the bailing wire through. Then the compressor was able to blast out the remainder of the blockage. Bart

I used patience, carb cleaner, and a wire. After quite a few hours the wire was able to brake through the blockage. I was about to bring it to a shop before I broke through. Oh yeah a lot of swear words were involved in the process too. Oh yeah there was an air compressor involved also. Once I had the crap that was blocking it broken up a bit the compressor was able to blow out the rest. I hope this helped.

I have been searching this forum in hopes of clearing up a brake problem I have been having. I think I know what the problem but was hoping for a little insight from you all. I have been having a beast of a time with my brakes. In order to get the brakes to work I have to pump them several times then they will lock up. I have spent countless hours bleeding them and sure I have the air out of the system. The car did sit for many many years without being driven and I read in a post that the master cylinder can be damaged if the brake pedal is depressed to far. Does this problem sound like it could be the master cylinder? I was planning on removing it tonight and examining it but would rather not if I may be able to resolve the problem some other way. Oh and yes when I pump the brakes the pedal resistance increases. I realize this question could have many possible answers, I was just hoping that some of you who have had similar problems may be able to shed some light on my current dilema. Thank you

I figured out and fixed my fuel problem. The inlet and outlet tubes on the fuel tank were clogged. I removed the tank cleaned it out and spent a good number of hours cleaning out the inlet and outlet tubes. Works great now.

I recently ordered and recieved a set of K&N's from MSA. I have a simple question, at least I think it should be. What do I do with the other hoses that currently connect to the old orange air filter box? Such as the one coming from the valve cover, the big papery hose thingy the rests down below etc. Thanks in advance and I hope I don't sound to much like an idiot asking this.

I am looking for some insight on dark ciolored exhaust. I understand it can be that the car is burning oil due to a need for new valve rings (I believe) is that the only thing that can cause it or could it be something else. Let me fill you in on my car which may help with the advice. I found my car on a ranch beneath a car port this last winter. It is a a 1971 with the original engine which has 131,000 miles on it. It was last driven in 1987 when it started sitting in a garage when the owner bought a new car. It was moved to the ranch I found it on (my neighbor's) about 5 years ago or so. I brought it home and with little effort got it running. The choke was frozen at half open but the car seemed to run fine. After it warmed up no color in the exhaust. Well I spent the last few months cleaning it up and doing other things and did not mess with the engine much. I recently added new performance plugs, wires, petronix ignition with the flame thrower coil, fixed the choke, new filters, thermostat distibuter cap, rotor. The car starts right up, when it is warmed up it idles at 750 rpm which I believe is the correct speed. When I rev it it sounds smooth and strong except it starts to put out a dark colored exhaust once the rpm get above a couple thousand or so. Also it will backfire at the intake at the begining of the rev on occasion (seems like it does then when I rev it rapidly). I am thinking I probably will have to replace the valve rings, but could this dark colored exhaust be caused because the car has bot been driven in so long, or could the carbs need adjusting? I have seen those additives that claim they will stop smoking is this something I should look into? I am just looking for a little advice and insight on what could be or probably is going on with my car. As soon as I finish the brakes which should be in the next week or so I will get the car on the road and maybe learn a little more. Thank you in advance.

When I bought my Z last Feb. the front bumper was inside the car. The previous owner hit something, she was not going very fast the only damage that occoured was a few cracks on the right headlight bucket and the valance below it was dented a bit. Well and the bumper is a bit tweaked. The right mounting bracket was bent pretty bad but I have since tweaked it back to looking like the other one. I assumed they were both supposed to look the same. The bumper is still bent and this is were my problem arrises and am hoping someone may be able to help. In the center of the bumper it tents up on the top and tents down on the bottom. When I attempt to put the bumper on the car the right mounting bracket sits about an inch away from where it should bolt onto the car. I was hoping someone would have some suggestions on how to tweak the bumper back into shap without having to bring it to a body shop. I used a good size rubber mallet but made no headway on pounding down the tents. Anyone fooled around with tweaked bumpers much? If so was there one way better then another to fix the problems? Thanks Bart

Ok, hooked up the petronix and it worked. Nice. My question is.... If I buy the flame thrower coil do I have to still use the Ballist Resistor or do I or can I remove it? If I do remove it do I simply move the wires from the ballist resistor over to the coil? Thank you in advance for the help.

I was hoping someone could tell me the name of the type of connector that is used on the fuel level sending unit. They have been cut off on my 240z and the previous owner wrapped the wires on the unit. I suppose I have a second question, what size of connector do I go I get, can I simply measure the diameters of the post I am going to connect them to? Tanks.

Saved me a headache big time.

I went to install the petronix ignitor I bought while ago and I found rhat the wires don't make it to the coil. It appears that if I rotated the distributor 180 degrees the wires would reach fine. I have little knowledge of distibutors unfortunately and before I go and take it off and move it around I want find a few things out. can I take it out and rotate it 180 degrees or does it have to sit in there the way that it is. And if I can do this should I expect to have to adjust the timing or os there anything I should keep in mind when I do this? Thanx in advance this may save me a headache.

OK when I bought my Z a few months ago the Oil Pressure/H20 temp gauge was broken and the previous owner had a cheap set of guages installed on the center console. Well I bought a new (used) guage for the dash. Also the H20 Temp sending unit was gone and a bolt was stuck in the Thermostat housing in its place. I bought a new thermostat and housing and cover and I ordered the H20 sending unit along with the little bolt collar thing that holds it in. The original wire that connected the guage to the sending unit had been cut. The problem I am having is this, the end of the sending unit is shapped oddly, not threads to bolt on a connector, looks like something should be plugged onto it. When I stuck the wire on there the guage in the dash maxed out. I think I remember reading somewhere that one way to test your guage was to ground the wire and it would max out. I think. Either way is there still something else I need to buy to connect the wire to the sending unit? Thanx for any help in advance, and I hope I explained my situation well enough, if not please ask me questions.

I am talking about a 1971 240z.

There is a black ground wire coming out of the harness where the fusible link come out and attaches to the starter. This ground wire connects to the fender well across from the starter. My question is what is this ground wire grounding? Thanks in advance for the help

Thank you very much!

It is a non-turbo. They are Z wheels on the car, I spotted them several weeks ago and paid less attention then I should have. But I know they are a 4 lug pattern and I know the car was from between 81-83, or really close to those years. I am heading out there today to buy them so long as they will fit. I just was wondering if there was a time frame that the lug patterns of the 240s and the 280's were compatible. Bart

I was wondering if someone may help me. I found a 280 zt a wrecking yard near my house and like the wheels on it. I would like to buy them for my 240 but am not sure if they will fit. I believe the 280 is from 81-83 and it has a 4 lug pattern. I guess I am wondering which 280 wheels will fit on my 240? Thanx for help. Bart

This may be a stupid question, sorry if it is, but I was wondering if there is a place to go online to buy some of the more unique screws that are used, in particular I am looking for the little black ones that hold that metal trim piece that sits between the windshield and dash board on the 240. Is this a screw I should call a dealiship to look for? Bart 1971 240

I searched and found a ton of valuable info, I will be sure to do a complete search before asking questions in the future. Though I still have a question after doing my searching and was wondering if anyone could help. I read about the N33 manifold which from my reading appears to be found stock on 1973 240Z's. Then the N36 was found on all 260's. Someone mentioned in one post that I found that the N33 and the N36 were essentially the same thing. How true is this. I am assuming that sticking an N33 on there would bring me the same benifits as sticking an N36 on my 240z. Is the assumption correct or would there still be another benifit to having a N36 or a N33? Also it seemed that the majority opinion on the N36 regarding HP was that only a highly modified engine would benifit a HP increase. If this is true would the same car experience the same thing from an N33 and if so how close would the benifits be compared to the N36. Thank You all, Bart 1971 204Z

I was hoping you guys might be able to clear something up for me. I read that by putting the carb intake manifold on your 240 it may increase the hp by a tad. Has anyone done this and does it make a difference? If not a HP gain is there a benifit to swapping out the stock 240z's for the 74 260's? Also is there any place that lists the carb intake manifolds model number that was on the different years of z's. I wondering about this so I would be able to tell if I was buying the right one. Thanx in advanced, Bart 1971 240Z

and the mirrors are different too. Bart

Well I am new to the Z universe buying my first one several weeks ago. I bought a 1971 series II which was built 7/71 with a vin of 38642. The seats in the e-bay car look different, the uphoslstery at least. the center consule looks identicle to the one in my Z with only 1 lever. The gas cap cover does look different, but the bumpers and lioghts all look the same. My car is also the same color which is code 920 which I found on one chart being called Klondike Gold, and other places being called mustard gold. Funny thing is the shift knob looks the same as mine, but didn't the Z's come with wood ones that matched the stearing wheel? The valve cover looks identicle to one I have, the antenna looks funky on this car like it is in backwards or something. Anyhow the biggest differences I noticed between this one and mine are the seat upholstery. Well those are the things I noticed. Bart

The 71 Z I recently bought I found sitting at my neighbors ranch, he informed me that he thought mice had been living in it. I found evidence of this, they leave clues laying around, so I set out on finding the nest they used. It turns out they turned the heater into an apartment complex. I removed the heating system completely and obviously cleaned it very well. Though the mice had ripped apart the foam padding for thier nest that is on each side of the little door in the heater that you open and close to allow air to blow through. Is there a place to buy replacement foam pads to stick in there, or would I be better off getting a similar thickness foam and cutting out my own. If this is the easier way is there a recomended adhesive to use? Something that will not lose it adhesivness from heat? Thanks in advance for any help. Bart 1971 240

I think it is showing on the Australian history channel on the 4th. I guess we are out of luck.