SemiEvolved

Nice! I've been looking for pictures of that center hanger (which attaches to the transmission) for a while now. Now... if only I could find a NOS source...

I've done a couple heli-coils in aluminum, not cast iron. So just lack of familiarity with the materials involved makes me edgy. I'll take your advice to heart and prioritize re-tapping the hole, either for a heli-coil or a larger stud, and give the welding a miss. I think I was getting too invested in a "quick fix" and I should have more reasonable expectations. Thanks again!

Thanks Chuck. I'm trying to go with an option that gets me a stud rather than a hole for a bolt. If and when I need to pull the exhaust again, a stud/nut combo is much easier to work with and less likely to strip out again. I unfortunately didn't take a picture of the stripped hole before we JB welded the stud in. I should have, because the area damaged during the extraction of the snapped bolt was substantial. I wasn't clear on that, but about 60% of the original threads were damaged. And thanks for the suggestion, Pete. I may investigate that route if Option 1 is deemed unworkable. A heli-coil seems like it might be better than option 4, though I'm nervous about using one in cast iron.

Need some advice on whether (or how) to fix or replace my exhaust manifold. PO retapped and replaced original collector studs with 3/8" bolts. We broke one bolt when pulling the exhaust system out. Long story short, the extraction didn't go well and we tried to JB Weld a new 3/8" stud into place. The JB Weld didn't hold as I was reinstalling the exhaust so now I'm left with two good 3/8" studs and one stripped hole. Options (as I see them): 1) Try to get someone to weld in a stud with the manifold still in the car. 2) Pull the manifold and replace with used OEM. 3) Pull the manifold and replace the entire exhaust with aftermarket. 4) My father is trying to convince me to retap the stripped hole to an even larger size (1/2"?) and use a two-headed stud (1/2" on one side, 3/8" on the other). Not even sure if this is possible or if this stud exists. Does anybody think option 1 is even remotely possible? Am I missing other options? How difficult is it to pull the manifold? I'm willing to go to extraordinary lengths to not pull the manifold because I'm concerned about the overall difficulty of that route. It's probably within my capabilities, but I'd like to avoid it in the interests of time. Thanks in advance for any input!

I was just looking at that, especially since I live in Alameda. I think it's a possibility, assuming rust isn't an issue (check under battery, floorpans, quarter panels, etc.). If it's rust-free, that may be a good deal. I'd jump on it if I hadn't recently picked up a '78 that is currently undergoing minor surgery.

Looking at pics of 240z engines online, I see no similar fusible links in the same location. I assume they were used on 77-78 EFI engines only, or they are mounted somewhere else? Probably doesn't make sense to reproduce them. Edit: SteveJ seems to know more than I. ^^

Here's a picture of the fusible link. There are two per car (present on the 77-78 280z, not sure about earlier models). The mounting tabs break easily and often. As I said, this may be more difficult to reproduce than other molded or stamped parts.

Putting in my vote for fusible link blocks as well. Might be a bit tougher due to the labor involved in the potting, but I think there's a market for them.