Vodkaboy

when your clutch looses all pressure, and when you check out the slave cyl its pissing out black brakefluid, can the slave cyl be rebuilt, or do you need to get a new one?

the 810 is a 5 door waggon, in fairly shitty shape (the SOB painted it olive drab with house paint and a brush). i want to convert it to diesel so i can run grease on it, partially for my senior project, and partially for free gas (the Z has bad EFI, and is geting 8 mpg, and puffing out black clouds of unburnt fuel at stops, i cant afford megasquirt if all my money goes into gas which just drips out the tailpipe)... I have already checked the Diesel ECU, and all it does is cycle the glowplugs, and even with my limited electronics knowledge, that isnt too hard to just make a switch for also, would it be advisable to swap the injectors, ecu, AFM, and whatever other sensors (thermotime, etc) out of the maxima, into the Z, just because i know that they all work (the guy replaced them all about 6000 miles ago, and has recipts)... i know i could use the fuel reg and injectors, because my fuel pressure reg leaks every once in a while (right on top of my exhaust manafold no less), and i have no doubt that some of my injectors are hashed i remember looking at a comparison between maxima N47, and ZX N47 heads before, and they looked staggeringly different (i think i saw it on hybridZ, two heads side by side), and have also heard that the maxima/810 heads will give a slight compression boost on a Z... are the cam profiles similer? if they are, ill probably swap straight accross for the lower mileage, recently reworked head/cam...

First question: are there any parts on the 810's L24E engine that i might want to put on my '77 Z's L28 with bad EFI and a ticking lifter (like EFI parts, better manafolds, better sensors, computer, head, fuel pump, etc)... otherwise, how much could i sell this engine for intact, considering it has less than 6000 miles on it since it got rebuilt (new cam, head redone, new injectors, new bearings, oil pump, rods, rings, checked the crank to be within spec, new alternator, etc) second set of questions: what am i going to need to convert this to diesel... im assuming the diesel fuel pump (the in tank one), the starter, im going to need to swap flywheels (unless one is severly incompatable with the other) as the current diesel has a flexplate, and the maxima has a 4 speed. other than that, just filters, and the such, then its ready to get converted to grease/bio diesel... anything im missing? info: my Z (for thinking about engine bits to swap): '77 280Z with a bad EFI system, and i think some quirks in the ignition as well. ticking lifter, and whatever stock head it came with. 810: 1979 datsun 810 with the L24E, tons of new stuff all over the engine, body is painted olive drab with a brush and it shows, came with an extra fuel pump, EGR system, wiper motor (what can i sell these for?), but is an otherwise straight car (transmission and rear end are in good shape, so i will be keeping them in it). engine: LD28 from a 1982 Nissan Maxima (same car as 810, basically), currently has a flexplate, not a flywheel. to be converted to grease in the near future...

all the time actually... would that indicate that my terminal connections/wires are bad? come to think of it, the positive terminal looks very frayed and corroded... i might try striping the wires back to fresh wire, and puting new terminals on the ends of the wires...

aw crap...... loose and burnt connections are the worst to try and find.... oh well, off with my ghetto 70s style multimeter i go... if i find anything i'll post results

update: decided to jump the car tonight... jumped and it started fine... but when i tried to turn on the lights, it died, which kinda sounds like a voltage regulator problem, am i correct?

it all started 2 days ago... i was driving down to a friend's house, when my charge light turned on (meaning my battery isnt being charged). looking back on it, i also smelled something that was kinda funny on the way (kinda like a roasting belt)... got there, checked my belt, looked fine, figured i and my car was just being stupid, and moved on... on the way home, my parking brake light turned on... next day, starts fine, go to drop my sister off at gymnastics, drive off, go to store for food and to cash a check at the adjoining bank, leave to go pick my sister up from gymnastics. when i tried to leave the gymnastics place, my volt gague read just under 12 volts (its usually just over 12 volts), but it wouldnt start, or even turn over more than once... got a jump, went home... a few hours later i left with no problems for a friend's bbq, but when i was leaving to go home, i needed a jump again... got a jump, decided to take the car around to charge it up... a little while later, i noticed my idle was VERY rough, and i was aparently running on 8 volts... barely made it the rest of the way home... any ideas as to what might be the problem? i dont think it is a direct result of my alt, voltage regulator, or battery, as all of those are only about 6 months old, give or take (although if you know of any good way to test these, i am open to ideas)...

what is the fuel injection that is used on a '77 280Z... i have heard that it is the Bosch L-Jetronic (similer to what was used on VW and Porsche type 4 cars, like the porsche 914), but i would like to know if it really is, or if im not on the right track? any webpages dedicated to tuning it, or that would at least tell me howv it works (more or less)?

well, today was the first day i have been able to drive my Z, and it was runing a bit rough. Anyway, when it is cold it misfires quite a bit, but after it warms up, it misfires less it seems. I also took it into DEQ and it failed hydrocarbons by a factor of 3X (OUCH!). this is not a cali Z, and never was equiped with a cat (nor will it ever be equiped with one if i have any say in it). Anyway, i began to figure that it might just be running rediculusly rich after the DEQ results, also causing it not not/misfire when its cold (and as it heats up it gets enough heat to ignite the rich mixture and is happy). Would an overly rich mixture cause these problems? how can i adjust the mixture, and when do i know i am at an optimal mixture? note: this is a '77 280Z, so no O2 sensors like in the ZXs. i have also been thinking about running some ATF with the gasoline to clear out any carbon deposits. Would carbon deposits be a cause for any of these problems, or am i right in assuming im just running FREAKING rich. the feeling of the misfires is kinda a sudden lurch in the car, and a pop sound. also, it only does it below 2200 or so RPMs, especially while under load (accelerating, going up hills, etc)... it absolutely never does it at higher RPMs (except for a single pop once at WOT at around 2900)

i forgive for double posting, but this hasnt been geting so much as a bite in the engine section, and i figured this would be more apropriate after further inspection... well, after observing a Thunderbird SC with the M90 roots blower, i got to thinking, 'wow, i wonder how hard it would be to make that M90 call my AC bracket home' especially because i like the low end power that a roots can give, and it sure as hell is a lot cheeper and easier to do than geting a 280ZX turbo drivetrain (and it lacks the lag). I do have some questions, however, on what i should go about doing while i quickly leap from the realm of mundane into that of insane. First off, i know im going to be geting rid of my AC, and looking at it, i think i could easily fit a front mount intercooler in place of the AC condensor, with only minor modification. any thoughts? my biggest question, however, is this: How will the EFI react? Where should i put the various EFI sensors (specifically the MAF or Airflow meter or whatever you want to call it, should it go before or after blower), would the computer work with more air, how about injectors and fuel pump? compression is already fairly low, so it could take a few PSI on nice gas, but what should i think about as far as maybe doing head work, cam work, and low end stuff (foreged crank/pistons etc?) anything else i should worry about? once i get everything drawn and start doing stuff, ill keep everyone updated on my endevours.

in another forum i surf on, this fact is debated almost every week. it gets ugly. still, some things to think about. SOHC inline engines are a more primitive design and predates the pushrod V8's. Although they are using 'old' pushrod designs, they refine their designs into incredible pieces of work. Take, for instance, the LT1. Still a pushrod V8, but it has had its design refined for quite some time, and it now has decent fuel economy, and some of the nicest, flattest torque and HP curves. It also uses some of the most advanced technology in the world. one final thing, is that the L28 doesnt even have crossflow heads, which is one of the advantages that is typically inate to SOHC engines. now dont get me wrong, i have got the best of both worlds, an L28 in a '77 280Z, and a 429 BBF in my t-bird. and i honestly cant say i would ever switch from the L28 in the Z. something about Zs screams for the L6, and V8s just seem somewhat wrong.

now, maybe im just thinking about the US versions, but isnt the highest compression engine in a Z the 240's 9.0:1, with something like 8.8:1 on the 260 and 280. the ZX was even lower comp... this really shouldnt be too high to run 87 or 89 on. My t-bird is 10:1 and runs fine on 89 unless i am drag racing and geting into the 5500rpm range.

Z cars have low enough compression that you should be fine with 87, and unless you have been milling your head, or throwing in high comp pistons, you should still be able to run 87 (i know i can on my '77). in fact, running too high of octain can cause a buildup in carbon, as it is not burning right for your engine. If you are experiencing some preignition, it might be in your best interest to check your timing, and if that is fine, your engine has a LOT of carbon build up... get some ATF, and spray it into the intake (kinda hard with that AFM sensor in the way), or put a little bit in the last gallon of gas you have in your tank. It might run rough while your doing it, and it will smoke really bad, but when your done, your engine will have that minty fresh kind of clean.

well, after observing a Thunderbird SC with the M90 roots blower, i got to thinking, 'wow, i wonder how hard it would be to make that M90 call my AC bracket home' especially because i like the low end power that a roots can give, and it sure as hell is a lot cheeper and easier to do than geting a 280ZX turbo drivetrain (and it lacks the lag). I do have some questions, however, on what i should go about doing while i quickly leap from the realm of mundane into that of insane. First off, i know im going to be geting rid of my AC, and looking at it, i think i could easily fit a front mount intercooler in place of the AC condensor, with only minor modification. any thoughts? my biggest question, however, is this: How will the EFI react? Where should i put the various EFI sensors (specifically the MAF or Airflow meter or whatever you want to call it, should it go before or after blower), would the computer work with more air, how about injectors and fuel pump? compression is already fairly low, so it could take a few PSI on nice gas, but what should i think about as far as maybe doing head work, cam work, and low end stuff (foreged crank/pistons etc?) anything else i should worry about? once i get everything drawn and start doing stuff, ill keep everyone updated on my endevours.

tried double clutching (is that the terminology?), as well as doing what you said... and it still wouldnt go into gear... so, sometime this weekend, im going to take kmack's suggustion, and see if that will work... i really dont want to drop the transmission, so im hoping that it will dislodge the clutch from the flywheel... anything else that might work, like a push start, only not to start, but rather to disloge the clutch?