krzywhtboi82

UPDATE.... ALOT of reading. She's been running really good for a couple weeks now. I've just been busy with new job so haven't had a chance to update. There is some things I still need help with. DAY 1 I finally figured out what was up with my car. The previous owner swapped the dist. out so when I had to I put the bolt for the right side of the bracket in the same spot he did. For ****s and giggles the other day I pulled it out and set the screw to the other side of the bracket, centered the left side up, and set initial timing to 10. Started it up and it idled and reved under no load perfectly. I got in the car drove slowly off and it was running good and has all week. last night i replaced the belts because the alt belt was to long and it wouldn't get fully tight and today she's running a little rough. Back to popping some and idles a bit rough and I can smell gas under acceleration (that's usually when it pops). I'm thinking I need to adjust timing again with having correct tension on the belts. If anyone can get me some pics of their maf i would greatly appreciate it. i need to figure out where the sweeper arm should be with the car off. I need to rebase it. also I need to figure out (if it can be explained) how tight that spring/gear should be. PO messed with it and didn't mark factory settings. DAY 2 So I redid the timing. Initial I set a 8° and put distributor dead center(left adjustment side), right side is all the way in the "up" spot. I disconnected the vac advance hose, started it up and let it warm up.. It idles at 18° 20°. Is that fine because it done run and drive good, exhaust smells like exhaust, normal color(it's cold here), and no fuel smell. What degree should it be at idle with out vac advance? COUPLE DAYS AGO THINKING.. ok so I have been doing some research on rear diff. but I would like some clarification. from what I have read my 79 5-speed does have the r200 in it as does my 8/81 turbo automatic. Is this correct because if it does then there is no need for me to waste time swapping the whole rear end out. next problem. i got all the struts/shocks, sway bar bushings/endlinks, both out tie rods, driver side inner replaced. I cannot get the pass inner out of the center link. I don't want to remove it(center link) because its still pretty decent but I am thinking I will have to. The problem is I cant find one for less than $250. Next I was thinking of swapping to rack and pinion but then i would have wasted money on all 4 tie rods and sleeves. so I am not sure what to do. will my 81 turbo rack and associated parts work on mine. both cars do have power steering. CURRENTLY... I have decided to pull the rear end anyways on the other car. It has less miles and I am going to clean the whole rear up and painted nice then put it in mine. One thing I did notice today when I was looking is the 81 turbo has actual CV axles and mine doesn't. I have beefy axles with wheel joints. Which would be better for me to have? thanks for the help P.S. If anyone needs parts from a 8/81 turbo, automatic, 2 seater, with t-tops(blue bags and grey tint) let me know. I have already stripped some stuff and still some more but just ask. Oh and yes the turbo is gone already.

It is titled and registered. The po,ppo, and myself have had it titled and registered. That's not the issue so let's not worry about it. I've got it all figured out. I just asking about the exhaust to make sure.

My hood tag says that. My door and dash tags are not correct for vehicle. From what I've read federal cars didn't have cats only California. Is that correct.

Quick question for clarification. My 79 is a federal car so that means I don't need a cat converter correct? According to the FSM it looks like it has a pre-muffler instead. Thats not the same thing as a converter is it? I have 2 muffler shops in town saying I have to have a converter on it. Oh also I can't find a O2 sensor and I don't see anything in the FSM about one so does that mean I don't need one?

SUCCESS!!!!! Well hopefully..... I think I figured out the problem. I've been working on it so long I forgot I had tweaked the MAF some because I read that they can go out of tune. Weeeelllll.....I never reset it back. I feel so stupid now. I got it close to what it was gotta tweak it some more tomorrow. I had the cops called on me because its so loud. Stupid neighbor I've been dealing with on other bull crap has it out for me.... but what ever. So I gotta check the link again(if i can find it) on tuning the maf and setting back to normal(hopefully)

I am so ready just to sell this car. It ran great yesterday. I drove it 40 miles and around town with out any problems other than a little bit of sputtering. Today I go out start it up and its running like crap and wont stay running with out pumping the throttle. I give it full throttle and still wont stay running. I see I have just under a 1/4 of a tank so I decide to go get some gas. i put 5 gal worth in it and start it back up. she starts and runs but like crap. I shut it off pull plugs and fuel filter. some stuff in the filter so I change that. I clean off the plugs and it fires right up on its own, stays running(not good) for like a min and then dies. I go get new plugs and put them in. starts right up but idles rough. I figure thats normal she acts like that when shes cold. Give her some throttle once she starts to warm up and she revs up but then starts acting up again. The thing I notice is when i hold the throttle she will rev up to where she should be but then start dyeing out. it got to the point that she would die with throttle wide open. The exhaust is really blue and smells like gas. I am thinking its either plugged fuel pump or fuel regulator. Any ideas? I really want to keep this car and give her the attention she needs and bring her back but I am at the point i need a dependable car and wondering if its time to cut my losses because I don't have any help with this thing.

Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong but is it my distributor that's off? I can get cyl 1 to tdc and zero it out and it'll point at cyl 1 plug on the the dist cap? It's when I advance it it goes off the teeth. Every where I've read people say to set it to 10 deg. If I do that(retard timing) it won't run at all so does that mean I have another problem? Sorry if this seems stupid I just haven't had much timing experience. In the fsm it doesn't say a whole lot. It does mention adjusting cam gear but that's for tension I believe. I just don't want to pull my oil pump if I don't have to. As far as myself and po knows the oil pump hasn't been pulled. Only thing was water pump was changed. How could it be off like that then.

Thanks sjb but I did try that wasnt that..... UPDATE MARCH 14TH well I got it figured out. It was the distributor. 1st icm went bad, 2nd one pick up coil was bad, 3rd one IT RUNS AND DRIVES GREAT!!!!! Well sort of; my timing is off and i cant seem to get it right. I set cyl 1 to TDC and the mark on the pulley is on the zero tick of the teeth(according to FSM). When i start it up and set time I have it fully advanced and it runs the best, but the mark moves about 1/4in from the teeth in the direction towards the dist. If I retard it it just totally dies out. Any thoughts?????

MARCH 12 I go out this morning and do some wire checks. Heres what I found Both wires (blue and black w/white) going to the coil have power(11.7v). Which in turn sends power to both the wires for the ICM. How is this possible? Shouldn't only one have power I also smoked a fusible link this morning(my fault not the cars). It was the middle one with 2 red and 1 green wire. I replaced it and still nothing..... I am so lost I am ready to get drunk and bang head on hood. I just suck with wiring and wish I had someone to help. I am thinking I might have fried something else when I fried the fusible link. What are the chances of that happening? MARCH 12 NIGHT so took distributor to O'rielly and had them look at them and they said they would get me a new one. I then went back home and was checking voltage again. I hit the key and suddenly I am getting spark from the coil(my old one) so I put everything back together and started it up. It was barely running and thats when I remembered I had the ecm unplugged(was going to check that next) so I shut it off, plugged ecm in and started back up. It still kind of ran like **** and was pouring black smoke out. I put it back into time(as close as I could get) and finally after a min it ran on its own with out any extra throttle. Finally it smoothed out real good and reved up real good and no more smoke either. Everything sounded perfect and I was so happy.I let it sit and idle for about 15 min. Then I shut it off.....Guess what, it wouldn't restart and hasn't since. I even put my new coil in and nothing. I am not getting any spark out of the coil again. Any ideas???? I started thinking maybe it had something to do with me disconnecting the computer, so I disconnected it again and let it sit for about the same time as before. Hooked it back up and still nothing

UPDATE March 11.... So today I bought a coil, timing light, got the whole distributor swapped out, pulled plugs and cleaned/gapped them. It started it up and ran. I adjusted timing and it ran even better. Only thing was it was blowing black smoke with a tinge of blue like crazy. I took her for a drive and ran pretty decently. Only thing was when i held it to the floor it was popping a lot and even back firing some. She would stall out when I let the rpm's drop back down but I figured it was because I had the idle screw to tight so I was going to adjust it when i got home. Got home and she stalled out so i said screw it dinner was waiting I'll do it after i eat. After I ate I went back out and she wouldn't start. Not even getting spark again. I checked fuses found one blown and replaced it and it still wouldn't start. Rechecked timing and its good. I just don't get it. How can it start and run after changing everything and let it sit for a bit and now it wont start. Oh and when it did stall out on my drive(3 times) it wouldn't start till the third time. I am just so confused at this point and don't get it.

Sport if you ask stuff Havent measured since it stopped starting but it was fine don't remember numbers off hand but was within specs. I am still getting fuel. 1) it's through the lines past the filter and 2) it's flooding the engine even. Plugs weren't fouled but I did clean excess fuel off them. Still nothing. I did check for spark(sorry forgot to post that with everything else) and it was weak and yellowish. I'll do the starting fluid check tomorrow. Thanks for the help too btw sorry if you ask stuff and I've done it. It's just I've done so much and done reading that I lose track of what Ive done till its mentioned

????? Confused? how will I have a spare PUC? Well I might because i found it's cheaper to buy a whole distributor that has the ICM and VAC ADV on it. I was meaning that since the PUC is reading those ohms then it supposed to be good and since the plug for ICM has power that should mean ICM is bad. I'm not sure though wiring is my biggest weakness.

Done and done. Both are good. Like I said I'm getting 354ohm from the pick up coil and fsm says approx 400 and I'm getting power at the plug for the icm. So according to how I read the fsm that should be the icm that's bad but no way of knowing for.sure without replacing. Hate to do it bc its $100+ but oh well. Wish someone was near by so I could borrow there's to test.

Just had this done thanks to OfficeMax. 24x80in gonna get it laminated and possibly framed

i had the link because it had the couple other replys on it too

Ok so I will be as detailed as possible. It might be long and might have some grammar errors but please stick with it as I need some help before I take it in to a shop. Feb 9 I bought my 1980 280zx 2+2 5 speed.....Wait you said 79 in the title... Yes I know I know. Long story short; someone changed the dash and door tags. The vin was for a 80 coupe. I have a 1979 2+2 5 speed. I bought the car with out it running. All it needed was a battery, valve cover gasket, and clean out the drained gas tank. The guy was asking 1400 for her and assured me that it would start and run once those were done. He also said it was running rough. So I offered him 1000 plus 40 to tow it to me. It was mine. Parts he put on..... Distributer Cap and Rotor Wires and plugs Water pump Ebay fuel injectors Cut exhaust off before cat. converter. installed a universal muffler and a 18in piece of pipe that ended about middle of the car Feb 11-16ish Installed battery, gasket, cleaned the tank best I could with out dropping it, and filled her up with some SeaFoam in the tank.I also changed the oil Sure enough it started and ran but ran like total dog crap. First thing I did was download the FSM for a 80 and went on a hunt for the vacuum diagrams. Finally got those straight(I think...Still not 100% sure, more like 90%). No change after that. So I hit the FSM again. I next metered out the Maf and TPS and both checked good. The TPS was a bit off so i fixed that. Took the maf out and cleaned it real good. I also put a 90 degree pipe on the exhaust to at least get it out from under the car. Did a test drive....nothing. Now up until this point the car was running pig rich. Blue smoke and you could smell it so bad it was burning your eyes. It would run "ok" at low speeds, rpm, and throttle. I couldn't rev it past 3500 or go over 40mph and anything over 1/3 throttle and it would actually slow down. I couldn't even go a mile down the road before it would be stumbling all over itself and back fire like crazy. It sounded like a M80 going off under my car. I then pulled out the plugs and cyl. 1,4,5,6 were normal but cyl 2,3 wer completely dry and black. According to the FSM that could be a sign of spark plug wires. so I went down bought new cap and rotor and wires and plugs. Installed all and went for a drive...NO CHANGE. Now I am getting frustrated and pissed. I needed a instrument cluster so I went to my local J/Y and got really lucky. The owner has his personal 81zxt with a rotted frame sitting on the lot. We strike up a deal for the whole car and I start pulling parts. I check the plugs after some idling and couple miles of driving and notice 2 and 3 are the same as before. With talking to my old boss he said it sounds like injectors. Made sense to me only other thing that can affect 2 cylinders. so I replace them. No change really driving but not blackening plugs now. Feb17-21 While talking to my neighbor about it, I mentioned that I am also loosing brake fluid but no where externally. He tells me to pop off the hose to the booster and see if fluid comes out. Would you believe it?! fluid came pouring out!!! Sweet I found my problem. I go the next day rob the master and booster(because no one sells them) of my parts car. Put it on go for a drive...some change for the better but not much. Now i start messing around and checking the timing(No light just guessing) and cant get a change. During this time I put in a Thermostat(none installed), coolant temp sensor and switch. Go for a drive....No change but hey my temp reads right now... All along I keep telling everyone "it's going to be something stupid and simple". Well one night at about 11pm I have a "light bulb" moment. One thing I didn't check or change.....FUEL FILTER. I run out the next day get one and slap it on. Oh and the old one....nasty brown crap came out. I could tell as soon as I started it it was running better. I went for a drive and and it was running pretty good. It would still spit and sputter but it would at least go around town. It would also randomly just up and shut down for now reason but would start right back up first try. Then the fuel pump started getting real loud. I was told my pump is on it's last leg. I went and got the one off my parts car and it looked almost brand new. Past few days. So here is where i am at currently with the car.... She doesn't like low rpm, throttle or speeds.. Its hard to describe the sound but it sputters and pops. If you hold it at one speed it will still "pop". I'll try to post a recording. I took some tonight. If you mash it to the floor she scoots. I got her up to 80 tonight chirping the tires through 3rd. I'm not sure if this matters but I have read some things online. The alt doesn't always put out 14 volts. It fluctuates alot from 11 to 15-16. Sometimes it will stay around 14. I am on my 2rd fuel filter since i changed the first one. The fuel injector connectors on cyl 1,4,5, and 6 have been replaced and they just have the normal butt connectors on them. Is this a problem? I wouldn't think so because I am getting changes but I may be wrong. Well I think thats about it. I'll keep this updated as I do things but next Tuesday I am taking her in. I've exhausted what I can do and I am getting pretty fried. I would appreciate any help or if someone is near me that can help out. I appreciate any help in advance. Even if its to point me in a direction. Lets keep the grammar police to a minimum please. If you have a question about what I have wrote just ask me. I just really need some guidance and not a grammar lesson. I'm new to the Z world and I have heard they can be a giant headache. Thanks again MARCH 7TH UPDATE: So I went out and was checking my EGR valve and piping. I found that the pipe is broke and hanging by a thread at the intake manifold. Now the question is; how much will this affect drivability? I know it will some but will it so much to make my car run the way it is? UPDATE March 8.... I think I now have a bad ICM. I did the checks acoriding to the FSM. I am getting 354ohms with the pick up coil connected and disconnected. I am also getting 12v to the plug. What I am getting is the car just turns over and acts like it wants to start. The car was running(decently) last night and this morning. Then when I went out this afternoon it was running rough and I didn't even make it out of my park before it died. First few times it would start up and run terribly then die. Eventually(and where I am at now) it wont even start. QUESTION: Is there a way to make a turbo ICM work just to see if it will start? I have one and was thinking if it would work. It is wired up a bit differently at the coil. but I thought if I could make some jumper wires it might work. Here is a link to my album with a couple videos of how it was running. Video 1 is more to the end and video 3 is the other good one. The pic is my exhaust starting thursday and hadn't done that before. Might be because of the egr Nissan Photos by krzywhtboi82 | Photobucket

ZED Why should i worry about it? PO got it titled and registered for 2 years and never had a problem. I got it registered and titled w/o a problem. You would have to do some serious digging to figure it out. No I don't plan on selling it. It was more just frustration which I am sure you all have had with the Z

Hi guys. I got a thread on another site but not getting help. I'll post like to it because there's a lot. Thanks for looking and any help My '79 woes (getting better - ZDriver.com