Coastalman

Good advice!

Here is an update on my leak. The background is that last winter, the first I had owned the car, I tried the heater and had the windows fog up and a strong smell of antifreeze. I shut the valve via the slide on the dash and everything cleared up. I knew there was a leak. Since I was working on other issues I did not work on the heater at that time. Now, with cooler weather coming, I wanted to be able to use my car in the winter. After getting the advice from the forum, I pulled out the glove box, pulled the vent hose off and was able to see the valve and hoses. I ran the car to get it warm and then engaged the heater valve with the slide control. After watching the hoses and valve for awhile, I could not see a leak. I drove the car for 20 miles with the heat working just fine. No smell and no leak. Heat was working fine. Since the car had been barely driven for 10 years before I bought it, could the valve have dried out and then when I first used it "re wetted" some kind of seal that then expanded and begin to function as it should have? I have left it all exposed so I can watch it, but for now it is working fine. Thoughts? Charlie

I agree. At 67 it is not easy to get under the dash and do the work I used to do on my first Z car back in the late 1970s. I am going to try and see how far I can get into this project before I have to take it to my local mechanic. It would be great if I could get to the leak myself. I'll see. Charlie

My 1972 Z has the dealer installed AC. I know I can just start taking things apart, but if any of the forum members have some helpful tips on how to approach this I would be most thankful. I know I have a leak, but, at this time, don't know if it is the core or one of the hoses. As far as I know, this one owner car, before I bought it last year, has not had anyone try to get to the heater since the car was new. Thanks, Charlie

I am trying to change out the old cassette radio in my 1972 Z. My Haynes manual is a bit unclear about that area of the car. I have taken the shift console out and removed the screws holding the big rectangle plate that holds the air/heat controls and the opening for the radio. The aftermarket radio that is now in that area will not slide out the radio opening, it is just a fraction too big. I have that panel loose, but can not see how to get it free enough to work on getting the radio out. The air controls seem to be attached to the panel from inside the dash, but I can not figure out how to get it free. Any advice on what to do next would be appreciated. Thanks, Charlie

Mitchell stated just what I did with the rear end of the drive shaft. I was getting a vibration around 70 mph. Not terrible, but not what you want for long trips. Rotating the drive shaft along with new u joints (which were put on first, but did not make the vibration go away) smoothed out 90 percent of the vibration. I will have the drive shaft balanced at some point, but it is not anything that needs to be done right now. Charlie

I had this problem also. After replacing the drive shaft u joints, it was still there. On a whim, I rotated the drive shaft 180 degrees on the rear flange to differential. The vibration went away. Maybe I was just lucky, but someone, at some point had misaligned the drive shaft. Good luck. Sometimes the most simple answer is the fix.

Thanks to all! Now I can move forward. I was given the fan so I will have to see if there is a current rating on it somewhere so I can get the right size wire. Charlie

I am sure many of you fellow Z owners have installed an electric fan on the radiator. I ordered an aluminum radiator and have a 12v fan to install on it. Where is the most common point to tap into the wiring system? I have a thermostat with a capillary tube as a sensor to install in line with the hot wire. Thanks, Charlie

Gnosez, do you have a web site showing your rails? I would be interested in checking them out. Charlie

Thanks to this thread I ordered the shifter and ebrake covers. Yes, they came in a fairly flat envelope and they look great. It is too cold to install them now, but I look forward to putting them in my car soon. Charlie

Here is my update. I used a NAPA electronic flasher in the turn signal circuit. It had to have a ground wire attached, but that was no trouble. I also used a LED bulb that was the 1157 equivalent to replace the existing turn signal bulbs in the rear of the car. The result is exactly what I wanted. The bulbs flash rapidly and brighter. Thanks for all the input from the forum! Charlie

You are right, Steve. That is a good post and answers my questions plus more unasked questions. I'm off tomorrow to buy another electronic flasher and will get back on the post when both are installed. Charlie

Okay, I bought an electronic flasher and just went out to install it. I guess I should have pulled the old one out first, but I thought the old canister had three prongs. The flasher I bought has three prongs/male spade connectors. When I took out the existing flasher it is the two inch canister, but it only has two prongs on it. Also, it plugs into a small round black connector unit that is about one inch thick. On the back of the connector unit are two male spade connectors that have a white wire with female spade connector going to one male and a green wire going to the other male. By looking at the flasher unit I can see that one connection is to a "L" male spade on the flasher and the other goes to a "X". Can I just connect the white and green wires directly to the L and P on the three prong electronic flasher and have it work, or must I go buy an electronic flasher that has two male spade connections on it? Thanks, Charlie

I will try the solid state flasher today. I'll get one and let you all know how it comes out. Right now there is at least three seconds between flashes, maybe more. Charlie