GGRIII

Thanks for that info, that pump was on my list to try. I'm sure Capt. O will wait to hear it on my car :)

I guess the take away is that I think there have been more than one person that has had 'fuel pump' issues that may indeed have been restricted pickup tube issues... Easy thing to check. The next pump I was going to try is a Carter P90091 or P60430. Any thoughts on this style on pump? Anybody want a Holly Red? If I find something else, anybody want a Carter P4070?

In my early 74 there was a small perforated can that was over the end of the pickup tube. It dislodged when I was rattling bolts around in the tank to remove as much crud out of the tank as possible... I suppose it could have come off of something other than the pickup - I was assuming it came off of the pickup. I wish I had saved it so I could post a picture.

One thing I feel like I should mention first - there is a filter IN THE FUEL TANK. At least there was on mine (early 74) If your inlet in the tank is restricted, you can't expect the pump to do much about that. They want to push the fuel not pull it. I had Captain obvious modify an adjustable non-bypass regulator to make it an adjustable bypass regulator. If you go that route you should eliminate the restriction orifice in the stock fuel rail. So that sums up the system as a whole. Pump back by the fuel tank, internal filter removed from the tank, pre-filter before the pump, modified fuel rail with the restriction removed, and a bypass regulator that I keep at about 2psi. I isolated the pumps with rubber grommets and such. The Holley Red was easily heard over an MSA twice pipes exhaust! So I switched to a Carter P4070 better, but still loud. Both of these pumps are overkill for a stock-ish motor IMHO. I too am looking to get a lesser pump that isn't as freakin noisy as the two previously mentioned. I guess on the plus side I always know if the fuel pump has power!

And I think I can clarify even more. I believe that on my early 260 the bumper stuck out further than on the car pictured. I say this because the rubber piece that bolts on the bumper in the middle is wider on my car. Given that those nuts are almost impossible to get off without snapping them (on east coast cars anyway) I'd guess that the middle rubber bumper piece has always been attached so it is pre early 74. But shouldn't there be bumper guards... Not impossible to find solid rubber ones like on my 260.

Great info, thanks a bunch!. My 260 will become a 280 with some minor head work so it should have a bit more to give than my 200K mi 260 motor has now. I agree with cgsheen1 'I've always believed that you use the lower 4 gears for spirited driving - 5th for cruising' I know that driving to Atlanta 2 years ago, I spent a fair amount of time above 3000 rpm, That is why I feel that 5th is too short right now - I want don't care if I need to down shift on a hilly highway, it may help to keep me awake!

Agreed and i am talking about using an 83 5spd, tallest 5th, with the 3.54 diff, tallest diff.

I believe have a non close ratio 5spd and know that I have 3.54 rear end in my car currently. I don't cross it but it does see some highway cruising and 5th seems a bit short. As part of an engine upgrade (see CO posts on F54/P90 build) I also acquired what should be a close ratio 5spd and 3.9 rear from an 83 non-turbo. I was thinking that I may run the close ratio 5spd but keep the 3.54 rear end - effectively making all of the gears about 10% longer. They way I see it the acceleration out of first would be a bit slower but everything else doesn't much matter as long as you wind it out 10% further. Has anybody driven this combination or does anybody have thoughts on the close ratio 5spd - it seems that there is a larger gap between 2nd and 3rd but has a longer 5th which I would like for cruising at 80...

CO's motor should make it to my garage on Wednesday. Since I have his hoist he will finally be able to get to the bottom end! Since I have a 260 my exhaust is set up for square exhaust ports. I'm thinking about using an E88 head and sticking the bigger valves in it or using a P90 head depending on what I can find. That means I would have a P79 head laying around - if I can find an E88 or P90. As part of the 280zx strip I also have an extra 5spd and diff. CO will have first dibs but at the end of the build I will be clearing out the garage of extra stuff :).

I would just remove all of it and open the window ? My car had AC and I had 2 of those goofy little vents, it's all in a box somewhere if you need one!

I have a 260 with 188K original miles and this winter I am going to rebuild the motor. My original thought is to keep the E88 head but stick the larger intake valves in it. Then mate this to either my 260 block that has been bored out (keeping the car matching numbers) or use a 280 block with flat top pistons. So I have 2 questions: 1. Has anybody bored out a 260 block, is it the same as boring out a 240 block, how much can I get away with? 2. If I use a 280 block with my E88 head is there anything I should look for, I guess my concern is with oil and water passages. I know my E88 has a spray bar and wasn't sure about how that would work with the later blocks...

I'll see about posting some pics and a description of my mod. The quick and dirty is: an old fresh air intake knob, as I recall drilled it out, soldered some piano wire in it, bicycle brake housing, an old cheesy pressed steel cigarette lighter - guts removed washer tacked in place with the mig, whole thing assembles up where the cigarette lighter use to be. Looks right at home, 12V lighter port moved into glove box where it is more useful for usb power (not in the way while driving...) Give me a day or two...

Can any body tell me how the shoulder strap clip (cheasy little plastic clip) mounts to the interior? Is it just a screw into the plastic side window frame panel or is there a threaded hole in the side widow frame? I have poked around in the hole in the plastic side window frame but haven't been able to locate a hole in the window frame itself. I find it hard to believe that it would just screw into the plastic. I need to find a solution to the belt cutting into my wife's neck! Happy wife = more money to spend on the Z :)

If anybody ever needs a cheap hood (that needs work) mine, the one posted by CO, will most likely be available. I think if you used a cutting disk to slit around the dent and then pull the material from behind you could do a pretty good job with a hammer and dolly then tig it all back together. It would be a PITA but not impossible. The steel on most of these panels is rather thin and dents easily. I'd be surprised if you can find one that doesn't have depressions that need filler. My 'Good One' had a twist and a few 'handprints'. Good luck :)

I will see if I can get some pics later tonight...