GGRIII

I'm putting a 240 mirror on a door skin that currently has no holes in it. How far from from the leading edge of the door should the mirror be or what is the distance to the centers of the mounting holes.

So I'm finally forcing myself to get my car on the road, hopefully making it to Atlanta later this year. One of the things that I knew I would need to deal with was the throttle linkage. I have an early 260 and while I am still running the Flat Tops, I got rid of the pollution control bastard balance tube and replaced it with a balance tube from a 240. The issue is that the throttle linkage that I have is now too short. My stock 260 linkage from the balance tube to the firewall is ~9" so it doesn't engage the part that is attached to the firewall - it actually falls short by less than .25". I called Capt. O and he confirmed that the linkage on his 76' is longer. Of course if I ask him about anything his is longer.... I think I should be able to find a linkage part from a later model and it will work fine. Does anybody out there have any experience with this, or even better old linkage laying around after they converted to tripps? Looking on Ebay it looks like there are linkage parts that are about 11.5" long....

Not much done in the past few weeks, I did rebuild the wiper assembly. I was surprised by a few things. For one thing, the grease and gears inside looked fine! I expected a worn sticky mess in need of cleaning. Another thing was the Vinyl bag that covers everything did not turn to dust when I touched it, heck a little Armour All and it looks spiffy! I have seen a few threads about the Honda motor. Time will tell but it seems cleaning and lubing the arm spindles may be all that is required, one of mine was dang near seized, It had caused the little bushing thingy to come loose. A little cleaning and a couple of whacks with a nail set on the rivets and its all back to the way it should be. The spring that is used for the 'parked' position was still there and in good shape but the nub that sticks out into the groove on the motor arm was broken off. I just (carefully) bent what was left into place and it seems to work just fine. Anybody else do the same or do people just live with not having the park feature? CO just uses rainX! I imagine I will start working on stuff again after St. Pats. Right now I am in training

I did the same! I still need to do that to a small rocker repair and quarter patch panel. It looks like mother nature is going to cooperate this week - warmish temps here !

On my Z I took a 5 gallon bucket of acorns out of the rails that support the front strut towers. I don't want to know what the metal inside there looks like after all of that mouse wizz...

By not putting seat heaters in I have eliminated 4 months where CO would not steal, er I mean borrow, my Z

Today I put the seats back together. I think they look ok I covered them a long time ago. I used the original foam and just added a little extra to it. The bottom had some funkyness, I used a very heavy Nylon screen between the springs and the foam to replace whatever was there before. I still need to add a few more rings between the springs, doing that makes the seat firmer. I am an avid cyclist and I have a zillion used SS spokes that I can bend up for the job...

That much I know. My issue is which seat back goes on which side. The mounting holes are spaced identically but on one side of the seat back they are flush and on one side they protrude. It appears that I can assemble them either way but I'm just not sure... If I uncovered one of the seatbacks I could take a picture but with the cover on these features are hidden. After further inspection I have convinced myself that the side of the seat back that has the protruding collars goes to the mechanism side and not the spring side. I say this based on wear marks on the clear vinyl pieces that I just found in my 'box of seat stuff'

I'm finally getting to put my Z back together after a few years(260 stockish) The seats were recovered 3 years ago and I am just getting back to reassembling them. I noticed that the seat backs have flush bolt holes on one side and protruding bolt holes on the other, other than that they appear symmetric. My thought is that the protruding holes go on the mechanism side and the flush holes go on the spring side. Can anybody confirm or deny they proper seat assembly?

I cleaned up a spare set of rear signal bezels and ordered up some chrome body wrap. Time will tell but I'm hoping I can do a reasonable job with that instead of paint or paying some astronomical price to get them chromed... I know that CO's 280 has them painted silver, which as he will fully admit looks pretty horrible. I'm hoping to have an update this weekend...

I think CO has more pics of this sled than I!

Like I have never seen CO with a bag on his head singing Led Zepplin... Maybe I just bring out the best in everybody I will have an advantage in Austin as I have a brother there that will post bail for me!

Kind of a mix, I did the rockers, floor pans, and chassis stuff. Then I went to a body shop and while they did a freakin perfect job I didn't really want a perfect job and it was getting pricey with no way to control them. I just wanted decent paint but its hard to find a place to do it around here, they want to do collision work or 40K restorations. So after they took it down to metal, eboxy primered, blocked and fill primered I was near 13K. I bailed on them, found a kid to finish blocking it and found another shop to paint. I gave the painter the car in pieces and he shot it in pieces so that was relatively cheap 3100 to put down 5 coats of sherwin williams and 3 coats of clear. BTW the car is more orangey than it looks in the pics...

I'm working on the fuel system at the moment. Tank was dented, most likely from fishing "parking spots" but solid. Rattled some gravel around in the tank to remove chunky stuff then hit it with some gunk dissolving stuff. Exterior is in POR 15, interior left as is. Fabbing some new SS tank straps. But the big question... I am deleting the mechanical fuel pump. Do I go with a holley red, pressure regulator, and return line OR a 3-4 PSI pump with a built in bypass regulator and dead head it with no return line. I do not plan to run a vapor line from the expansion tank either way. Thoughts?

Here is another. Both floors were replaced, Both rockers were replaced, passenger side wheel arch was replaced, drivers side dog leg was replaced. sourced new doors and fenders. welded the headlight buckets to the fenders. shaved off the locks. Added a bucket of cash and viola. The color is Toyota 5A3 sun fusion. As soon as it warms up a bit I will start to add pieces. I have some stuff I can post on the refurbishment of some of the parts. I'll get to that in the next few weeks. The original motor is going back in but with a 5spd and an R200. Anybody want a 4spd and an R180? Like I said, the car will be stock-ish...

Long time listener, first time caller I figured I should start a thread for the restoration of my 260Z. I knew the previous owner of this car, the father of Captain Obvious. I hope he likes what I do with it. Maybe I should start with pics of the usual rust? Typical frame and rocker issues, front strut towers, nothing left of the floor.

Claimed? I still can't believe you managed to Fred Flintstone that Z over to my house! That's right everybody, Captain Obvious's side kick has finally managed to get his password situation resolved! I will wizz myself laughing if that acid works on paint but not magic marker