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View Advert 1978 Datsun 280Z for Sale~ Check it out/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-70/ Advertiser txvepr Date 09/05/2020 Price Category Cars for Sale Year 1978 Model 280Z Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)  

You look good as far as I can tell, I rebuilt mine 2 years ago and yours looks like mine. Its not going to free spin with your fingers or hand. You are using the L28 Engine rebuild book, right? Its got everything you need for this. Keep it up!

Question, with the headers, I have noticed after medium to heavy acceleration, and then getting off the gas, that I hear small 'backfiring' ,popping? Is this an indication of a too rich condition, or normal when going from stock exhaust manifold, ? Maybe this was happening but not heard due to the stock manifold ? Thanks.

So to re-cap, I am at 500 plus miles of breakin. I did a compression check last weekend and was a little worried. My pressure was showing 95psi on all cylinders. This was giving me a fright. I was worrying about if I had done something wrong, used the wrong rings, etc.....but it was driving fine. Then I read a short post of someone else having low compression with a build, and someone just threw out there to use the short connector on their pressure gauge. I had been using the handy long hose that came with mine too. So watch out for Harbor Freight pressure gauge with the hose attachment... So tonight I used the short metal tube, and sure enough, it shows 150 psi on all cylinders! Woot!! So I can now sleep at night. Oil change next. Cleanest Head in the County!

Out with the old. Up, Up, and Away!! Of course, I like to dump all the old oil out on the garage floor, just to make sure its all out of there , of course.... (I used a rubber oil plug due to stripped threads on oil pan. , Just don't get it caught on the sled you put it on.) Old and New.

I drive my '78 280Z everyday 40+miles. The car is made to be driven. Unless you are at the level to keep a garage 'queen' , just drive the thing and enjoy it. Fuel injection was made for reliability. Did I mention I DD mine in DFW traffic everyday, except some rainy ones? It starts everytime I turn the key, AC still blows cold(Lord, please let it last!), it has never over heated with the stock cooling system, and I still smile each time I get in it. I feel like I know every inch of it by now.

I used that VHT Flame Proof paint in 'Aluminum'. Baked it on the grill for a while so it should be cured up fairly good.

Dude, there are few absolutes with running old cars, but one of them is -Absolutely no Fuel leaks!- Get those rotten fuel lines replaced ASAP! This is a fire waiting to happen, and then all your fun will be over.

Got it painted!

Few more pics.

Hey thanks for the comparisons. Mine is the Z version, just a little different angle . Nothing the grinder couldn't fix! Pan is on now.

So this thing is giving me trouble. The oil pickup tube seems to stick out too far 'aft' and hits the oil pan so that I cannot align the screw holes for the bolts. It has been a long time since I removed this , but I don't remember it being jammed in there at the time. Is there any way this tube is a S130 version? Does anyone have a comparison photo of the 2 to show me? Thanks.

Chain guides in. Dizzy shaft timed... Pumps on.

I got the entire stainless steel bolt kit, gaskets, timing kit, clutch, etc... from ZCAR Depot. They are a great supplier and worked with me when we had a minor problem with the chain guide kit. See pic For some reason the left side chain guide was the wrong size, you can see the imprint the timing cover housing made when I tried to install it , the guide had too much flange sticking out. ZCAR Depot sent me the correct part right away and it's all good now. My old one compared with the newer one below.

Its been a while, having to take other paths thru the year, but I am finally back on track getting this block done. Block was honed, baked, and checked for true. Got the paint from MSA for the right color.

So I installed a 5 speed in my 78 280z. Really like it and shifts well. However, 1 problem I saw when I was installing it and replacing the rear seal to the driveshaft was the very end is bent(Sleeve yoke dust cover. Looks like it was dropped and got the bottom flattened. And the bend has small cracks in it. So, naturally, it leaks fluid slowly, but annoyingly. The manual doesn't show how to pull this off. Ican't tell if there are clip rings holding it in and don't want to damage my good one getting it out. Does it entail removing the rear case from the center section to get at a clip or something from the inside? I would like to swap my good 4 speed one for the bent 5 speed one if at all possible. Thanks, Pics:

I have secured a new crank, and by my meter measures it appears to be within spec of my Datsun motor rebuilding book. The question I have is a chicken or egg type question. Plastigauge. I understand how to do the measurements, but with the old bearings, and a new crankshaft, should I just buy all new bearings first? or do the measurements with the old bearings in there anyway? or what. Is what they would indicate with the original bearings not even relevent now with the new crank. Make sense? As to motors available, they are not a dime a dozen around here, Neither the dime nor the dozen. But I got the best deal I could get at this time. According to Monroe's book, L28's built up to March 1977 had the oil spray bars. After they went to through the cam. And up to 1977 they had square ports.

Ugh, this does not look good. #6 piston, after cleaning. Can you see the 'X' on the piston? It looks pretty clear to the eye, but I cannot tell how deep this is. There is no sign of crackage on the bottom end of it. I don't think this is normal, but then again, this is my first time around. I was hoping that I could re-use these. With a magnifying glass I could not see if these marks actually penetrate into the depth of the piston top.

I had planned on taking the block to City Motor Supply in Dallas. I'll have them do the crank too. They seemed to have a good rep overall.

Taking the pistons out. Found this. Glad it didn't leave its seat. Some of the other piston bearings have wear that show up as the copper color too. Looking at these main bearings. They look worn, but I think this would be normal wear for an engine this old. Somebody chime in! The crankshaft spun freely in the block, so I think it is straight. I got Parts!

So, is SOS pad still good for some rust like this? or coat everything with POR and then paint? Interior of Pan shows no rust thru so I believe this is still usable, regardless of looks.

So I took off the oil pan. Found some odd rails where also used.You can just see them on the back edge under all the oily grime. This seems to be an early 1978 block, it has the cam oiling bar instead of self oiling cam of the later ones. They even have longer screws to reach into block than the ones on the front. I couldn't find a reference to these existing in my manual. I found 1 reference to them on Ebay as oil pan keepers. I guess they were needed to better hold the pan to the block? There's over 20 screws used.

Removed the front cover and head. After taking off the front cover, I see that the crankshaft key is 'buggered'. Is this a show stopper? as is or is there anything that can be done to fix it if needed? It looks like the key only serves to hold the harmonic balancer in place, not like holding the cam chain gear or somesuch. Is this a replacement level problem?

So I am in the process of rebuilding my first engine and will post various pics and questions here. Mileage at the time of purchase is unknown. I believe it was ordered and shipped from Japan recently. I have already installed the 5 speed transmission in my Z and it works well. Here are a few from getting it in the garage. Assistant is inspecting the situation... Plugs seem to indicate fairly good mixture? Dissassembly is coming along. OFF WITH HER HEAD!!

That's what I thought . Thanks for the info and advice.