txvepr

If this helps those that know more than me on this particular subject. I took all Voltmeter checks at the alternator posts. Gauge at idle:15.00 Voltmeter at idle:14.3 +- Voltmeter at 3000rmp:14.7 Voltmeter with lights on at Idle:13.56 Battery Charge at Idle:13.3 So, if I'm reading this right, the voltage is good at all ranges. Maybe the AZ testing gauge is not a reliable source for such an old car?

Ok, My 1978 280Z alternator failed , and I went to AZ to get a new one. The new one has somethings different on it than the original one I had. Heres a pic with the stuff. It appears to be charging, the battery is now back up the volts. The volt gauge inside shows a 15? volt being indicated at highway speeds, and 13 or so at idle. So does anyone now what that white plug is for on the new one? and the condensor looking device and if I need it on there? Also, I went back to AZ to have the check the battery, and the alternator, they said its showing good voltage but the VR is bad?? really? even tho it charges ? Could it be related to not having that new white plug plugged in? The part number for the alt was the same as their system said, but it had a different picture on it. I don't know what to believe now.

Describe this 'moan'. Does that mean you can hear the starter kickout and engage? or just spin? or are you just hearing the fuel pump start? I just did the block replacement last month. If you did a wire replacement just like the pictures show, then the problem is more than likely something else. FYI, all my old battery cables where corroded internally and you wouldn't be able to tell by just looking. Just replaced them all and been good since.

Maybe put a better way... Basket Weave Seat covers? or the newer third party version, a little more sporty looking?

Hello all, I am looking at replacing my original seat covers and cushions. This place has some good options for me.(Welcome to the Interior-innovations!) My question is : Has anyone gotten the Perforation Option on their seat covers vs. non? Is there a difference going from the basket weave to the solid in vinyl? My original seats have the 'basket weave' on the sitting area and backs. The new ones I am looking at do not, or I can get the perforations. Do the perforations match the comfort of the 'basket weave' regarding breathability? Im in Texas. and it gets hot sometimes around here! Thanks.

Harbor Freight, this:Mechanic's Stethoscope Your Friend.

Thanks HiveMind. It always pays to take a break and come at it again the next day. Found the corrosion in the C7 black plug on the exact wire for the blinkers. Got some battery terminal cleaner that eats up the corrosion for the fix.

Yes I have searched the files for things to check... Recently my turn signals have stopped working. Here is what is working 1. Headlight switch ON: headlights on, taillights on,No front running lights,No Front Sidelights. 2. Emergency Switch ON: Front Flashers ON, Rear Flashers ON. 3. Turn Signal Left or Right: No Turn Signals Things done so far: All bulbs have been checked for breakage, all sockets where cleaned, and checked for rot. Circuit breaker for flasher appears good, and I don't have a dedicated turn signal CB as far as I can tell. Fusible links all appear intact, give a good continuity check. Turn Signal Switch circuits all check out good per FSM. CLeaned, very nice condition internally. Flasher units: All have been replaced within the last month. Emergency Flasher switch: recently replaced, appears clean internally. VOLTAGE at Flasher Unit plug: Turn left or right, observed 9-10 volts on the plug. Do not detect any 'clicking' and no turn flashing. I am kind of out of ideas now. Since the turn signals operate if the emergency flasher is switched on, this tells me that the electrical current is getting to the signals...just not when the turn signal switch is used. UGH...

Wade, thanks for your advice. Found 2 things : 1. Corroded wires in the 6 connector from the AC controls. Right under the heater pipe. Had to completely replace 2 wires . 2. After that, still no volts, but, followed Yellow/blue wire all the way to the CB panel. With the nice plastic cover, that has the nice legend to each CB. BUT! The CB panel cover is WRONG! (compared each to the FSM). So I have been looking at the wrong CB, The yellow/blue wire goes to a different CB than listed on it. Which happened to be burnt. Switched it out and voila! Cold air. Maybe PO had the cover from some other year or car. Either way I learned a little, and subsequently 2 other things are now not right. Fan motor now howls like a screech owl. It is not grinding the squirrel cage, it seems like the motor shaft is rubbing against the back of the motor panel now that I cleaned it out. Hazard switch has shorted out. It's either on, and I get warning buzzer and Fuel pump on. or off when engine is on and blinkers work. Wow...

Maybe the last post for this one. Can an electric motor be 'bad' and still spin if you apply 12volts to it off the battery alone? 1. I can get it to spin if I wire it direct to the battery. 2. I can detect voltage and ohms coming out of the connector socket. I can't get exact numbers on my digital voltmeter, but it does show differences for each switch setting. 3. When I re-connect it, the fan does not spin. I have opened the fan motor houseing, and cleaned it up a bit. It looked really clean inside aside from some dust. So that is why I don't understand that the motor will not work normally.

To keep this mildly interesting. I removed the front ac control covers to start checking the micro switch and fan blower switch. I could show a circuit continuity from the micro switch, and each of the plastic connectors all the way to the fan and wires going to firewall. I am not that great with electric debugging, and I read that the ignition relay is involved in the blower operation. Could an ignition relay be bad and still start the car but not allow the blower to run? Cuz mine starts up.

Ok, more work done with no luck yet. I pulled the blower motor and did a simple ops check. It spins with 12 volts on it. I then pulled the AC relay switch, and opened it up. I saw some charring. Nothing appears completely burned up tho. I cleaned the contacts up and tested? I applied 12 volt to the 2 pins and did see that the switch closed, however, I think I read that that is not a reliable way to verify proper operation. The model number on the switch was slightly different than others I have seen listed. 25230-H7200. Long term question, Could any relay switch rated for 12volts work in this case? I have seen mail order used for $20-$40 bucks. Local autosupply stores dont carry the exact for the car switch. Grainger has many various models for less than $10. I'd like to walk into a place and just pick one up.

Well crud. Readin' and stuff shows me wrong area of focus... my bad. AC relay out in the black box in engine bay. Anyone found alternative supplies for that AC relay? AZ and Oreillys dont show a listing.

This is a 3 speed fan switch. Can you tell me which one in the picture that is if possible?

Have been running the AC on my 78280Z blowing cold for a couple of months now. Yesterday it worked all day. Today I turn it on and nothing. Even with just fan only I get no air blowing. I have checked the fuse box. No blown fuse . With the key and switch on, I do not see any current coming across the fuse connectors. I have new vacuum lines on the Magnet valves. I don't believe (yet) that the entire fan switch went bad. Can anyone id these Relay switches for me? I cannot match up the wires from the FSM . Would one of them be a likely culprit? AND There is no way the ignition switch could be involved could there? From page AC-15 I am guessing there is not a dedicated blower power relay in the ignition switch itself?

I will check out the mounting and rubber insulation next. Here is a pic of the ?original line? You can see where the large end looks like it was molded that way, not just simply stretched around the fuel pump intake.

I have been replacing 38 yr old fuel lines and now have an annoying problem. I can now hear my fuel pump whine fairly loudly when the engine is started. Like you can hear it over the idle of the engine. What happened: I pulled the stinky supply line from the gas tank to the fuel pump. It appeared to me that the fuel pump inlet was a 1/2'', since my 5/16 line would not fit it and a 1/2 inch would. So I assumed it to be 1/2. Was this old line 2 sizes originally? Got some fuel rated 1/2 line from the Truck supply house since AZ and OR didn't carry that large of lines in stock. Put it on and now I hear the whine . Could this be from a larger fuel line capacity? Or a coincidence since I touched the fuel pump(you touch it, you buy it!) is now going bad? I have put some hose insulation since the new hose was pressing up on the floorboard. And this hose it DOT Truck rated line with metal mesh inside the rubber... Very stout stuff. Car starts and runs the same, no leaks too! Thanks.

I did the switch! Got a Ignition Module from Autozone part#DR100 and wired it up per the instructions found on this site. I was a little unsure of it until I cranked her up and it runs Great. Highway test shows no Tachometer jumping at any RPM's I ran it at. I don't know if this will give me better mpg yet. I wish, but I'm only seeing 17mpg combined daily driver. Might be something else I haven't found yet. I used the mount for the coil wire as the Module mount, it was well grounded already. Just needed a slight bend to make sure it didn't hit the hood when closed. My 78 had the module on the pax side footwell inside the firewall. Awesome!

Yup. about the rotor wiggle, have you ever noticed how much a good one has? I just never took note before.

I have read all the posts I can find on this site, and the manual for this answer. Some are close, but maybe not exactly my problem. My newly acquired 78 280Z has a problem where at around 3000 rpms, the tach starts to jump wildly. At the same time, I detect that the engine is either missing or starving of gas. Voltmeter does not change. This problem has only just started to show itself recently. It starts up great, and idles smoothly, so I don't see this happening at all driving ranges either. Slower speeds I have not seen it yet. 1 more observation, the rotor seems to have some play in it when I checked the cap and rotor. Like I can wiggle it maybe an 8th of an inch or so. Does your car do that? So, would this be the dreaded Ignition Module failure(where I would do the HEI retrofit?) or would it be something related to the distributor being worn our or bad? I am girding myself for your opinions. Thanks.