3ryce

that looks good man! what color name of the paint.

Hello all: Thanks for looking at my build. This is a 1973 240z Datsun. Some History- I am the third owner of the car. The person I bought it from ,2ed owner, bought it from a dealership in Los Gatos in 1976. At some point she had a sunroof put in, then taken out. Over time the bondo has not done so well. Someone bought it brand new, owned it for less than three years then traded it in. She used to live in California and when she moved to Tennessee in the late 90's she had it towed. Sadly the Z did not see much road time after the move, had the intake changed over and supposedly went to the dealership to "fix" vapor lock, and eight years ago began its long sit, waiting for me. This is where it will begin a new life as I continue to restore it and improve upon it's early 70's designs. I acquired it in February of 2013 (this year). Interior: Stock Exterior: Stock Engine: Stock Drivetrain: Stock Suspension: Stock Wheels: on/xxr535 16*8.25, off/Stock Tires: Falken 205/50/16 Problems: Clunk clunk clunk sound, possibly front diff mount and or the strap. Future Plans: Fix problems. Replace slave cylinder and clutch cylinder, Lower ball joints, Tie Rod Ends, Repair roof! Update to polyurethane bushings all around. Upgrade to aftermarket suspension and go a little lower coilovers maybe. R200 diff swap. Get rid of what rust I can and contain rust. Fix floors. Paint. Relay's for headlights. Upgrade to fuses and get rid of fuseable links. Upgrade early 70's designs all around. 10 years or so future plans: RB26DET Ok heres the good stuff Pictures!!!: First time seeing it. (did not run) To get it to run I first replaced Water Pump, Thermostat, New hoses, Alternator, Spark Plugs, Removed A/C, removed smog stuff, New Belts, New Mechanical Fuel Pump, New electrical fuel pump (still doesn't work with car on so I use it to primp the lines if I need to) new gas tank, hoses and filler neck, cleaned the carbs and readjusted the floats and made sure the valves were good, regressed the window regulator. New MSD ignition coil (still need the 6AL to go with the tach adapter) old one used this as a gas tank while waiting for the actual one to arrive. needs some cleaning up. Just put on the new wheels. Took it for a spin, came back and replaced the wheel bearings on both sides, races as well not just the bearings, and this is how she looks to date. The next thing I will be doing to her is replacing the lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and whatever is making it go clunk clunk clunk. I have Video of first start up and will post it up sometime later.

I'm not sure I see the differance you are talking about etek. I still have to turn mine to get the top off. Oh but about the overflowing problem! Got it fixed and it seems to work fine now. I had to do some adjusting as it was idling to high so I adjusted the adjusting screws. Next is to get that tester you put in from of them to make sure both are pulling the same amount of air. Ill noticed my secondary coil on top of my ignition coil was super super hot. I don't think its supposed to be that hot so I gotta look into that next. I need to make a build thread haha.

Ya autozone doesn't carry them anymorw. Yet they show a picture of the ones I need. Ill see if I can contact gpsorsen. Doubt ill have any luck there. I think I've got them all cleaned up now and will try to put them on tommarow and see what happens. I need to make a build thread on this car haha. Just got the msd tach adapter today too. Again thanks for all your support and advidce and help on this topic guys.

Ah man, well least I now know. Hopefully cleaning them out has helped till I can order thos you posted in the picture. I cleaned them and poured sea foam on them, in the jets, and lines. Ill probably go to auto zone and get new floats as well while im at it. Going to check out newdatsunparts.com right now.

Thats a very nice video man. Keep em comin. hope my L24 does well. Just working out the carb bugs right now, its been sitting for like 10 years. What coilovers did you go with?

^arne, why? Is a L28 swap that much of a plug and play?

Ok, im making progress on these things, the jet tubes or choke area things, the hoses, were all kinda clogged. So I cleaned thos out and also messed with the float level. I tried to make the floats level by adjusting the metal tabs. Ill look into that lithium spray too. Also I didnt see the needle valve you were talking about tho. It has a plastic ball like thing that the float moves up and touches and moves that up to block the fuel. I can post a picture if you like. Heres a link to a google search of the valve I have. http://www.minispares.com/product/classic/image.axd?type=product&picture=170/CA90.jpg I tried to blow air threw and push the float valve up and it seemed to stop the air flow so if cleaning the lines and adjusting the float level doesnt work im not sure what to do. ha. Oh how fun this stuff is.

Awesome guys, great information here! Im gonna book mark this thread. I believe that taking the carbs off and sorta cleaning them up helped a little but still needs more attention. Right now im trying to get it to the point where I can just move it to my house and then ill be able to work on it with more ease and not have to worry about having a time limit on when it needs to be moved. There was something that bothered me tho, I put the carbs back on and everything and started it but with out the air filter and cover on. Choke on and there was fuel spewing out of this small hole. labeled 1 in the picture and the comes from the tubes with the arows pointing to them which lead to the top of the float bowls. the one labeled 2 was clamped off on the other side, i assume this is normal but was wanting some reassurance. heres a picture to show what im talking about.

Is it normal for it to leak with the choke open? If i closed the choke the car would have stopped running. I did take the float out and cleaned it up a little bit. everything seemed to be working in order. Hopefully just by messing with it a little bit i fixed something. I mean the car has been sitting for like 5 to 10 years so ya. So stoked to get this car on the road again, ive replaced many things. Gas tank and fuel lines, alt and fuel pump, manual and electrical, cant the the later to work right now but ya. haha. Thanks for the help guys, ill keep messing with it.

thanks man for the fast reply. It was while I had the choke on, as the car was about to die if i took it off and it was the first start of the day too. cold. Thanks for the link too! Ill try to tap the float bowl and see what happens. But ya the carb kit I got ,GP sorsen, ya not for the carbs I have. The car was kinda warming up and as I pressed the pedal and let it off the car would backfire, then I went to look at the car and noticed the fuel leaking. I hope its related cause that means its a easy fix, if not then idk.

I need help identifying these carbs. The other day I went to autozone and had ordered a rebuild kit, however after looking at the kit and then looking at the carb and back to the kit, then to the carb, ect. i came to the conclusion that the kit was wrong. The carbs say z therapy on them so im pretty sure these are not the stock ones. There are three screws holding the bowls on but not sure if there called the three screw su carbs. I got the rebuild kit cause this carb in the picture was leaking on the bottom, the screw driver is pointing to where it was leaking fuel. not sure if I need a full rebuild kit but where is a good place to get one? Is there somewhere that kinda shows how to take them apart? I have never done this before and if there is a simple fix to this fuel leak? I dont wanna take to much apart cause I dont have gaskets to replace them.

yes I have the fsm. I was on my phone earlier when looking at this fourm. I will do the test mentioned, gotta wait to get my dad to help, im not so good with using an ohm meter. His old one ya, but the new one I have I do not know what setting to switch it to too just test continuity.

I here the relay b click when I turn the key but that I guess doesn't mean much. But its just odd that everything is plugged in and I here one at least click but the pump doesn't come on. Also I've noticed my tach isn't workingand have read somewherr that the relay clicks on at about 400 rpm and maybe if that's not working it could be a problem, though I don't think that is the cause.

Thanks man. So much help.

Wow fast reply. Ok ill look for the other thread. And do u have a picture of the other relay? I turn the key and here one relay click and I tried to hold the other one while I turned the key and I didn't feel it click on.

Will check into that today also steve. But both fuel relays are in fact inside the car on the passenger side correct? I'm positive I've found one as it has black yellow blue and a white with blue stripe wire. The other relay I'm not sure where that's at.

Hmm. thanks Pat that actually helps alot. The one relay in the car on the passenger side kick pannel, I jumped the two green wires and the fuel pump worked. so im not exactly sure what to do. The car is not at my house so im not able to run out and check on things asap. But I have been reading that there needs to be a oil pressure switch so ill check for that, I dont think its there, and go from there. I just got new insulation wrap for my fuel lines they were previsouly wrapped in foil. bleh. thanks pat

Ok, so i recently acquired a 73 240z 4 speed. I have been doing some fuel things and other things. ive replaced the voltage regulator, alt, mechanical pump, fuel lines, electrical fuel pump, vent hoses, gas tank, belts. Also, I put some heat wrap around the fuel lines to help prevent vapor lock. No not exhaust wrap but I have that to and will be wrapping the exhaust manifolds later. After getting the car to run, I do not have the tank installed so ive got the lines running to a gas can haha, well I went to check the electrical fuel pump to see if it was working and it was not. The relays in side the cabin seem to be working, ive tested them too. I had to pour gas down the lines leading to the carb's and I used a pump to pull gas threw to hopefully save some strain on my starter. Now I know the 73's did not come with an electrical one from the factory, yet my car has been to the dealership and been recalled. I know cause I have the seven bladed fan and the old electrical pump was there when I had gotten the car. Didnt bother to see if it had worked or not, car had been sitting for 5 yrs. I would think that if the car had been properly recalled and worked on the mechanical pump would not be there. However I still have mine. So my question is what are other things to check? I have come to learn that there are two relays, one is a relay coil? however, maybe I have not located this one and maybe it is my problem! Ive checked the inline fuse and have made sure everything is plugged in. Ide like to resolve this issue so I can get rid of the mechanical pump. Please help! and Thanks for any and all help!!!