wenzlern

Hi, God, I hope (and will assume for the moment) that my problem is not that sneaky . The plan is to first figure out where it sucks wrong air. If I have to take of the manifold to fix it, I am going to be tempted to just get rid of the whole emission stuff at the same time. I also still have to check the float level at the carbs. This could also be the reason for the behavior at 5k (fuel starvation). Hopefully I will get a chance to put it on a lift this weekend to determine the state of exhaust, exhaust manifold and bushings. This will then determine what to do next. As soon as the mechanical is in a good condition I'll have to start with the interior (Reno car, no rust but all plastic parts are shot) and put the doors and the trunk lid in straighter than they are now. Regards, Nils

Hi, I found out that zcarparts.com is just near my work, so I could get a STE directly from them. I know that the general tune has to be proper to do a proper tuning of the carbs. However most hoses seem to be in good condition and I have already gone through the rest of the ignition and the valves. Having said that... There is of course a vacuum leak . With the help of the gauge I could get a good idle tune, but at 1500 the front carb can not be tuned to the back one completly, even with the balancing screw all the way loose. With other words, something on the front carb is leaking. I will get a bottle of carb cleaner tomorrow and start chasing that leak... It was still no wast of time, since it is a lot better than with what I started (I have 6 perfect looking spark plugs, instead of 3 good and 3 black ones), a low and stable idle and a good initial pickup. Thanks for the tip's, especially about the STE gauge, it works really well! Regards, Nils

Hi, Thanks for all the help. I actually managed to get the valves adjusted yesterday (Cold and with some tapping on the wrench it worked out). The valves were pretty out of specs. Some by factor 2! It already runs a lot better than before and revs up to 5000 under load. There it starts to misfire. But I haven't had a change to set the timing right yet. I will set that today, and if I can get around to it also the carbs (The back 3 plugs are pretty black...). I will try balancing with a tube, since I could not get hold of a Unyson flow meter (Does anybody know, which auto parts/tools store sells them?). I'll let you know if I am succesfull. If the tune up does not deliver the results, I will start chasing vakum leaks. Best, Nils Edit: Distributor was the first thing i checked. It is fully rebuilt and works like a charm. I just had to set the point gap right. Spark plugs and wires are all new.

Hi, I am a 24 year old European guy on an internship in Los Angeles. This weekend I bought a 1972 240z up in Sacramento. I am only the second owner of the car, which came with all the history there is. There is even a neat Warranty card and a receipt for the original selling price . The car doesn't look bad from the outside, but needs work on the interior, and at some point a proper respray. Mechanically a lot has been done by the PO. Unfortunately not everything is in tune. I already started going through some of the stuff i suspect is wrong, but I am kinda stuck and hoping for some help here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/help-me/49157-need-help-tune-up-fault-identification.html#post428348 Best, Nils

Hi, I just bought a 240z which has some engine issues. In short: The idle is very rough and initial pickup out of neutral slow. The biggest problem: The engine won't rev over 4000 under load (2nd gear and up). I did reset the point gap which made the idle a bit better (Before it would misfire and run on only 5 cylinders in idle. Then again, the gap was about half what it should be...). Since the valve train sounds a bit too noisy to me, and the valve clearance could be the source of the 4k problem, I measured the valves. If the measurement has been done correct ( I think it is, however it is the first time I did it) the Valve clearance is way to big. However I was not able to loosen the locking nut for the valve adjustment. And at the moment I am kinda stuck. I don't know whether there is some kind of a trick, I am doing it wrong or the nuts are just very tight... Would anybody with some experience in the Region LA/Anaheim be willing to help me out? Or can anybody recommend someone/a Garage that would be willing to help me and knows this engine? I am going to try it again tomorrow evening, this time with a cold engine. Thanks, Nils