ElCimino

Guess I need to run a tap through the holes and clean them out. Thanks for the reply.

Searched the forums and can't find anything relating to what I need. Looking for the size of the 4 bolts that hold the sway bar to the frame rails. I thought they were 8x1.25 metric but those don't seem to fit. The bolts are in bad shape. I tried checking them at oreilly but its really difficult to get them to thread into the gauge plate they have at the store. Chris

We dropped the fuel pump out and rotated the distributor shaft to how the service manual shows. I've got the car running however i still have to have the distributor pushed as far advance as possible. In this position the timing light shows about +7 at idle (700rpm). Would tuning the carbs effect this at all or should I just be happy that it's running again? I have watched the ztherapy carb tune video twice through. I don't know if he mentioned and I forgot but I would like to clarify turning the screws that adjust the air mixture clockwise (tightening) is more air and counterclockwise (loosening) is less air? Right now when I lift the piston in the carb the rpm's go down. When I put the unisyn on the rpm's go up. Does this mean i'm too lean? If this is true then it feels a lot like the last time I tried to tune. I had to have the jet nozzles 4-5 turns open to get everything to work. This takes me to my next question. I installed a clear wix filter before the fuel pump. When the car is running there is very little fuel flowing through it. After I've turned the car off it will slowly fill back up. Is this normal?

Thanks Blue! This explains a lot. I will adjust this ASAP. (Probably Tuesday) Thanks for all the pictures and information. I'll post results once the adjustment is complete. I got my car as a toy/project in February and the ignition has never seemed right. Just because I'm curious is this something caused by human error or is it something that changes over time from engine wear? Knowing the po of my car I'm guessing human error.

Here's what I have. All pics taken with #1 TDC. The key for the distributor looks like its running parallel to the engine. Not sure why all the pics are on their side.

Ok I get off work at 9:00 pm Tulsa time. Expect a post late this evening or early tomorrow. Ill try to post some pictures of my findings. Thanks for your input I appreciate it greatly. Chris

Thanks for the reply Blue. I will check that this evening. From memory I don't think my rotor is in the position that your second picture shows. Ill double check this. To check the timing chain ill need to pull the valve cover and get a new gasket? I just saw your post with the timing marks so I'm either just below zero or above the +20 depending on the configuration of the spark plug wires connected to the distributor. Thanks Chris

Ill start with some info about the car then my question. '73 240z L24, round top su carbs, 4speed transmission, headers, electronic ignition. Now to my question/problem. With a timing light connected to #1 cylinder wire and the car at idle the tab shows slightly below -7. I could be wrong on this but from what I've read the marks are from low to high -5, 0, 5, 10, and 15. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this but regardless the timing was showing below the lowest mark. This is only achieved by having the distributor turned as far advanced as possible. Any turn to retard the timing would cause the car to idle roughly and die. I found some pictures while searching that showed my plugs were in the right order but were one plug off to the left if you are looking at the distributor from the drivers side of the car. So I moved them forward one each and the retarded the timing to compensate for the change. The car would run with this change but only if I now turn the timing all the way to retard. The timing marks at this setting shows a little above the +15. When I advance the timing the car idles rough and the dies. I wouldn't really care if it ran fine but it sounds like it just needs a little more advance or retard in either configuration to run smoothly. From what I can tell the po installed a reman distributor (card one?) and added a pertronix electronic ignition module. The coil doesn't have a name it's just black. There is a ballast resistor. Everything functions it just doesn't seem right. Any info is welcome. I can take pictures this evening of anything you need. Thanks, Chris

Ha maybe! I purchased it this morning and he shipped it today. I'm in the middle of getting the car mechanically sound and wasn't looking to buy cosmetic stuff yet. The shift maps seem very rare though. One more box checked on the to do list.

Quick question. I replaced the gasket for my water pump due to a leak at the top of the seal. With a new gasket my old leak is gone but I now have a leak at the bottom. When I replaced the gasket there was some silicone gasket that I removed. Is it possible the water pump housing is warped? If I need to start a new thread in the help section I will.

Seller mailed me back that outside diameter is 1 1/16. Order placed.

I think I saw your post. What year car do you have and what insert did he send you?

So the general consensus is it will fit.

70 78 Datsun 240Z 260z 280z 4 Speed Transmission Shift Knob Topper in Green Nice | eBay I measured mine 1 1/16. So if the green is that size I'm going to buy. Wish someone made reproductions. $25 seems like a lot. It's the first one I've found in a month of watching.

So would the green one fit a 73? I don't want to spend $25 on a map that won't fit.