bacarl

Bringing back this old thread to ask a question about Blue's second photo up in post #2 I tagged all the hardware I removed while disassembling my front suspension, and I have bolts and nuts for the steering rack. Imagine my confusion when I started reassembling and found the rack brackets already have weld nuts on them. I was wondering where the heck the nuts came from that I had bagged with the bolts, so I started doing research and found Blue's pic. It looks like the nut goes on top of the weld nut?? Is this a lock/jam nut set-up? I don't remember dealing with a jam nut when I took it apart. Apparently I need to add photos to my bag & tag organization method, but that's so damn inconvenient when you're lying on your back with grease up to your elbows; not the best time to bust out the camera or cell phone.

I have the original (worn out) tires from my '73 in my basement, and the original spare is in the hatch. If they're the same tire as Carl posted, I can take some detailed photos. I'll look tonight. edit: after reading through the thread Carl linked to, it seems likely that my '73 would have come with Toyos, therefore not being of much interest to you. That was an interesting thread, Carl, neat info.

Wow, great project. Did Datsun Spirit build the L28 from scratch using in-stock parts? This is the first I've heard of Datsun Spirit outside of Z_k's signature. If I may ask, what does a build like that cost? Also what process did you use to clean up the suspension bits? I love the "suspension tree", Captain's comment back in post #12 cracked me up I know you're planning to freshen up the white exterior (which will look fantastic) but I gotta say, I really like the contrast of the grungy white exterior with the gorgeous & clean functionality of the engine bay and gleaming L28.

Just following up to my post, I figured out that the felt was not the cause of my sticky window. Even loaded up with grease, it would stick sometimes. I think it was coincidence that it stuck at that break in the felt; I think that break is normal between the two pieces. My issue was actually somewhere in the regulator itself. I can't see in there to tell exactly what was binding up, but after liberally greasing the teeth which come into view as the window is lowered, grease worked its way onto the regulator splines and things eventually smoothed up considerably. This is all done with the interior trim panel off the door (and the plastic membrane removed), but no further disassembly than that. TomoHawk, if you haven't removed these panels before, it's not bad. My biggest challenge was removing the passenger side grab strap without damaging its little chrome bolt covers. They just pry off, but try to pry at an inconspicuous spot in case you mar the chrome. The panels themselves have several metal spring clips around their perimeter that engage the metal door panel. The FSM recommends lightly prying at each one with a screwdriver, which worked well for me. Some came out with just a gentle tug. Don't pull too hard in case the clips pull out of the back of the trim panel before they come out of the door. One other comment (sorry this is getting wordy) is that you probably shouldn't use PB blaster on the splines/regulator. Since I couldn't see in there, I thought a blast of penetrating oil might work its way in to lubricate where I couldn't see or reach. However, after lubricating with PB blaster, the regulator squeaks something awful! I've never had something start squeaking after lubricating! Hopefully the PB blaster will eventually dry and go away and the window crank will quiet down. I'll add a pic or two when I have a chance.

Well I got everything straightened out! Although the locksmith wasn't able to source a replacement cylinder for me, he could tell me the specific p/n I needed to go with my key (C-16-116) and I found a NOS part on eBay for $15 (at least this stuff is fairly cheap). $40 to re-key and install it in my steering lock and I'm good to go. Now if only I hadn't started disassembling the front suspension and interior, I could actually try it out. In good time... Thanks for all the info, I wouldn't have realized all the cylinder options if not for you guys.

Haha, nice, geezer comes back with the second page two years later. Thanks guys, that's helpful. I'm tackling my ball joints next week so just doing some reading to prepare.

Thanks Captain! According to MSA, it's the "O-Ring, Steering Knuckle To Strut Assembly" Actually though, I was referring to post #3, not part #3 What about part #1? It must have a more specific name than "strut assy", since as far as I can tell it can be separated from the strut assy?

Bringing back an old thread here, where can I find the full illustration that geezer attached to post #3? I don't see it in my FSM and I'm interested in the components' names. Or the shortcut method: what are the official terms for items #1 and #2?

Thanks guys, sounds like about 1.6 qt is what it will take, according to both the FSM and your experiences.

Ha! Silly flat tops... Yeah I know to fill up to the fill hole, but I'd like to know roughly how much oil to buy. Sounds like 1.6L is correct, or 3-3/8 pints (or 1.6 US qt!). See, if I'd gone by the 2-3/8 I'd have to go back to the store for another pint! Thanks Jim. My page definitely says pt, not gal (on TM-12, not 11). Maybe I'm using the wrong FSM? All the blurbs in xenon's zip file say 1973... TM Transmission.pdf Additionally, am I reading the following page correctly that both the trans and the diff want SAE 90 oil? I'm in the 32F - 104F region. GI General Information.pdf

Ok guys, I'm afraid this officially falls into the "stupid question" category, but can someone please clarify the correct oil fill for a manual trans ('73, B-type)? I've searched this site (via Google for better results) and consulted my FSM but I swear it has a typo or something: it says "1.6L; 2-3/8 US pt; 2-3/4 Imp pt" First of all, 1.6L does not equal 2-3/8 US pt, it's 3-3/8. And although it is close to 2-3/4 Imp pt, that's not quite right either. Second, "liter" isn't spelled out like in the differential section, it has a funny-looking script L instead. Does this mean some unit other than liters? I just want to know whether 1.6L or 2-3/8 pt is correct. I'm using the scanned '73 FSM from xenonS30.com; typos seem highly unlikely, but possible I guess. The differential section of the same FSM says "1.0L; 1.0 US qt; 7/8 Imp qt" which is perfect. I also can't figure out why one section uses quarts and the other uses pints. Seems fishy. Any help?

! Thank you! That jives with what I've been told by my locksmith. The trick is figuring whether a given lock set was "left" or "right", which none of the parts places seemed able to tell me. Can't blame them - knowing every nuance and detail of every part carried is an unrealistic expectation. My locksmith was able to tell me that I need a C-16-116, which happens to be one that I stumbled across yesterday on eBay so I grabbed that one for a reasonable $18. It should be here this week and we'll see if it can be re-keyed properly. If that does the trick then the whole situation is really pretty simple, but was made complicated by the various key types that I wasn't aware of going in. Hopefully this info will be helpful to someone in the future.

Supporting Captain Obvious' comments, I've found three separate short-cylinder part numbers so far: C-16-110, C-16-116, and C-16-123, with keyway descriptions like "Taylor X7 / Silca DAT6R", "Taylor X6 / Silca DAT6", and "Taylor X123" respectively. Next step is trying to determine if my key matches one of these keyways.

Hey hogie, what year & model Z do you have?

Nice CO, good info. I do know my original key code, so perhaps I can use that info to source the correct lock shell to fit my key. My goal is definitely to keep one key that fits all locks. Partly due to the originality of my car, partly (mostly) due to my OCD

10-4 on the Tri-Flow. I used WD40 originally but got some Tri-Flow to use going forward. It's the teflon in it that's really good for locks. Also a good point about the graphite. What I've learned so far from this locksmith is that there are "long" and "short" cylinders for various model years. He went to his usual source for a replacement cylinder and found they no longer carried/produced the short cylinder that I need. Perhaps your guy accidentally put a long cylinder in your housing? I showed my locksmith a photo of the new cylinder before I purchased and he said it looked like the correct, short cylinder. Only once it showed up he found it had the reversed keyway... My lock still works if you're careful to only insert the key to a certain point, so I know the whole assembly does function. The locksmith seems to have a magic touch and can do it dozens of times over. I tried once - extremely carefully, mind you - and it immediately locked up on me again after $45 of work! That's when I started shopping for replacement parts. edit: Wade, did you have that used collar rekeyed to your original?

I should add that RockAuto does offer a few other parts here. I bought the Airtex (least expensive) but there's a Standard Motor Products part and an ACDelco part for more money. I don't want to pay for these "just to try them", but maybe I'd have better luck with one? I have read that the lock cylinder can be replaced and keyed to existing key. I just don't know where to get the right part. Hoping you guys might have some insight.

I'm having problems with my ignition lock cylinder and need to turn to you guys for help. Original symptoms, key was stuck in ignition in the ON position so it wouldn't turn to START, or back to OFF. I read on here to spray in some lube, wiggle the key, rap on it with a hammer (this is a bad idea, by the way - will explain later), all without luck. So I pulled the assembly (pictured below) off the steering column and took it to a locksmith. He found that there's a stop inside the lock to keep the key at the right depth. Mine was cracked (possibly made worse by me hitting the key with a hammer) and hence it was very easy to insert the key slightly too far, at which point the tumblers don't line up and the lock acts as though it has the wrong key in it, that's why it doesn't turn. I'm not clear on why the key can't simply be retracted slightly until it lines up properly, but that doesn't seem to work. So I bought a used housing (same as what's pictured above) on eBay for $17 to replace the whole shebang, hoping it could be re-keyed to my original ignition key. It turned out to be in worse shape than mine. So I bought a new lock cylinder from RockAuto for antoher $25 and sent it over to the locksmith to retrofit into my housing. No dice, its "keyway is reversed", whatever that means, preventing him from rekeying to my key! At this point I'm tiring of buying random bits and grasping at straws. Does anyone have any insight on what parts could work and where to source them? Or should I just use the new lock cylinder and have separate keys for ignition and other locks (not preferred, obviously). Thanks for any help!

How did you end up reattaching the knob? Seeing as the threads were cracked and blown out. Did you use an insert like Captain Obvious showed back in post #16?

Ah, I was wrong, the spacers move the bar down, not forward. Still odd, I can't think why they'd be there. On an off topic note, what is the component just above the sway bar in your picture, Mike? Your question mark is almost touching one of the bolt heads. I have a fair amount of oily coolant, or maybe watery oil, dripping off of mine. Sorry about the threadjack, but it's a good picture.

Out of curiosity, why is a plate required between the bracket and frame? If I'm visualizing correctly, it sounds like it would push the bar forward in vehicle, so maybe for packaging the bar? Perhaps your front bar is a larger aftermarket one and a PO removed the spacers to get it to fit?

Thanks Montezuma, I wasn't necessarily looking for a car this original, but it was pretty clean and much much closer to home than other cars I'd looked at. Also being a single owner car is very cool. I don't plan to change it much from original. I want to see what it's like just put back to normal. I ordered rubber T/C bushings, but poly rack, coupler and sway bar bushings since that's about all that was available. Also a rear diff mount isolator to see if that cures a clunk. I hate throwing parts at a problem if I don't know exactly what's wrong, but in this case everything is so worn, new parts can't possibly hurt. The carbs are the original flat tops. They are not good. I'm just running them for now but drivability is poor. I need to go through them, or just swap in some ZTherapy SUs when my funds recover. The color is original obviously, but the paint is not. It was resprayed in the early 80's, I think. Quality work but it's 30 years old. It's a great 10-foot car but faded and cracking up close. Again, just going to keep it like that for a while. Maybe new paint along with a more extensive refurb down the road. Just need to get it safe and happy and then I'll enjoy it for a while.

You're right, it's a BD catalog page. I had a Rock Auto order going too... getting hectic Thanks for all your help!

Also, can't the lower portion be replaced independent of the upper? Is it just good practice to replace both while the door's apart? This is Rock Auto's catalog page - has a part number for the upper channel and shows the lower, but no part number for the lower... presumably the MSA part linked above is the same part. I wish MSA had more photos on their site. Do either the upper or lower require adhesive to install? The FSA doesn't cover any interior stuff and I haven't gotten myself a Haynes-type book yet.

Thanks Jim! Is this the part you're referring to? I wasn't able to find it just browsing around MSA, I had to search by the name you provided (window channel). Motorsport! Door Window Channel Seal, Inside Door, 70-78 Z*, Reproduction - The Z Store! Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts