cnwayland

Sorry, no.

Still available, 2.4.17

Turbo Wheels 15x7 Not the best condition. Not the worst. Comes with all four hub caps, but they'll need reconditioning. I will include a full set of wheel lug nuts. They're straight and true, some curb rash but looked great when on my Z. $300.00 Buyer covers shipping.

Any chance you'll be stocking these again Steve?

Looking for a set with center caps. Need all 4. Bay Area would be great.

It sounds like you figured it out already..? For anyone else with similar issues, I think two things: check the harness plug before just popping in the voltage regulator delete plug, and redundant grounding.

Zed, I wish I was as handy with the multimeter as you sound. For this page's reference I'm going to explain how I got my car to run today, thankfully. 1) I gave myself a few days off from thinking about the car, and came back this morning more clear headed. Unplugged my fuel pump jumper at the dash (see: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50486-fuel-pump-wiring-harness-s/) 2) I pulled the MSA voltage regulator plug and double checked the harness-side wiring to make sure the diode and jumpers were installed correctly (which they were). [see Blue's earlier post for the relevant reference thread]. To my surprise I found the WHITE wire on the car's harness side loose in the molex connector and therefor probably making terrible contact. I continued to pull the entire molex connector off and brushed, cleaned and rewired each connector into the MSA adapter plug, covering the connections with electric tape (for the meantime - rubber boot to come later). I also reconnected the voltage regulator harness-side condenser to the black-wired female connector to the inner fender where the regulator used to sit. 3) Ran an additional ground cable from the rear passenger seatbelt mount where battery grounds, up to engine bay and bolted to the starter mounting bolt. 4) Cut out the bad ground wiring around my ammeter/fuel gauge and ran new 18 gauge ground to the back, reinstalled the + and - leads. 5) Switched the key into the ON position. Double checked connections. Turned the motor over, double checking connections. Plugged fuel pump jumped at dash back in, turned motor over. Everything seemed good, so I went ahead and fired up the new motor. Ran her for 20+ minutes at around 2500 rpm. Now on to sorting out the triple 40 Mikunis and a possibly vacuum leak at the intake/manifold. Thanks again guys!

I'm showing continuity between the ignition start on the solenoid and GRND in the engine bay, so this doesn't seem right, yes?

I measured resistance of less than 0.1 @ 200 ohms.

Oh, and additionally pulling the RED/WHITE connector in the harness for the dash power at the passenger kick drops the circuit draw out too, but this may be obvious. It does seem logical that if the starter doesn't have a great ground that the ammeter would seek ground since huge amounts of current run to the back of the gauge through the dash harness.

Okay guys, this is helping. Hope I can help you help me. A few answers: The battery is grounded using the passenger seat belt bolt due to the battery relocation at the rear of the car. I could relocate that ground up to the starter through the firewall, though the unibody s30 should ground at any point give the connection is good. If there is a way to check for good ground connection, let me know. Below you can see the blown ammeter ground which is in the molex connector with the fuel level sending wires (YELLOW, YELLOW/RED). I traced the ground back to where it connects with the rest of the grounds in the harness and it looks like it's not overly cooked at this point: This is shot through the Ammeter Gauge housing in the dash looking toward the firewall. You can see the fried ground leading up to the rest of the harness. I fully charged my battery and started looking for draws in the system and realized that I was showing 11.5 draw at 600 vDC. I pulled fuzes with no avail until I pulled the 10A DOMELAMP LUZ INSTRU. That dropped it to .15 @ 20 vDC. Pulling the rest of the fuses didn't do anything. I'm going to get a '77 Volt and Fuel gauge to swap in, but I want to find the source of this disaster first.

I attached an image of the ground strap: Zed, I'm trying to wrap my head around the signal flow and the short-cut explanation helps. I found that the '71 has the similar gauge setup with FUEL/AMMETER ~ and I'm praying it's the only thing that shorted. I'm not 100% sure that it's happening only under starting. I need some more experience with my multimeter to accurately know what I'm testing for. Additionally, after reading through the link http://www.classiczc...ons-w-pictures/ Blue posted, I'm wondering if the issue is related to the electric fuel pump I installed utilizing the stock wiring harness...

Blue, thanks. I've been following that thread as I noticed it was at the top in a timely fashion. I noticed I'm not running a capacitor on either the harness side (where the regulator was disconnected) or the alternator side. I read that most don't run them as they only filter out static in the wire. I'm hoping that's accurate as I successfully tossed the old ones. Zed, The wire is not totally destroyed but it is pretty toast. I need to trace it back through the loom to see how far it was affected. It certainly got VERY hot. I'm not sure how to test for a shorted circuit in the ground system ~ but I am sure that there wasn't any issue until I was actually cranking the motor over. Any information on how to read my wiring since the gauges seem to be from a differing setup than all of the '72 wiring diagrams I've found? The ammeter seems to ground with the other gauges at the wiring harness that grounds near the starter? My starter is grounded to the wiring harness's ground point on the right frame rail through a grounding strap.

I realize this is an extremely old post.. I am in the process of trying to start an L28 in my '72 I rebuilt over the past few months. I'm running a 280zx alternator upgrade with the custom adaptor wiring plug from MSA. While priming the oil pump (ignition unplugged), cranking over, we noticed smoke coming from the cabin. After tearing the heater panel out I see that the BLACK wire that runs to my ammeter/fuel level gauge is toast/burnt/fried/kaput. I've been looking through my full color 240z wiring diagram, but they all show an ammeter/water temp gauge, not a amm/fuel gauge, so I'm a bit lost as to how to move forward and why that ground in particular would get so hot unless it was related to my new 280zx alternator. Attaching photo of the plugs on the alternator just in case you guys see something I am missing. On the following site: http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPageEngine&BodyElectrical.htm .. It reads that the stock ammeter won't work after the alternator upgrade, but not working would be an improvement over burning up my wiring harness. Below is a shot of the fried wire from the ammeter gauge harness... ....and also the 280zx voltage regulator diode connector. Many thanks in advance.. ~Cameron

Marty, thank you for the confirmation on that, although I'm completely undecided on running the relay.