cnwayland

Sorry, no.

Still available, 2.4.17

Turbo Wheels 15x7 Not the best condition. Not the worst. Comes with all four hub caps, but they'll need reconditioning. I will include a full set of wheel lug nuts. They're straight and true, some curb rash but looked great when on my Z. $300.00 Buyer covers shipping.

Any chance you'll be stocking these again Steve?

Looking for a set with center caps. Need all 4. Bay Area would be great.

It sounds like you figured it out already..? For anyone else with similar issues, I think two things: check the harness plug before just popping in the voltage regulator delete plug, and redundant grounding.

Zed, I wish I was as handy with the multimeter as you sound. For this page's reference I'm going to explain how I got my car to run today, thankfully. 1) I gave myself a few days off from thinking about the car, and came back this morning more clear headed. Unplugged my fuel pump jumper at the dash (see: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50486-fuel-pump-wiring-harness-s/) 2) I pulled the MSA voltage regulator plug and double checked the harness-side wiring to make sure the diode and jumpers were installed correctly (which they were). [see Blue's earlier post for the relevant reference thread]. To my surprise I found the WHITE wire on the car's harness side loose in the molex connector and therefor probably making terrible contact. I continued to pull the entire molex connector off and brushed, cleaned and rewired each connector into the MSA adapter plug, covering the connections with electric tape (for the meantime - rubber boot to come later). I also reconnected the voltage regulator harness-side condenser to the black-wired female connector to the inner fender where the regulator used to sit. 3) Ran an additional ground cable from the rear passenger seatbelt mount where battery grounds, up to engine bay and bolted to the starter mounting bolt. 4) Cut out the bad ground wiring around my ammeter/fuel gauge and ran new 18 gauge ground to the back, reinstalled the + and - leads. 5) Switched the key into the ON position. Double checked connections. Turned the motor over, double checking connections. Plugged fuel pump jumped at dash back in, turned motor over. Everything seemed good, so I went ahead and fired up the new motor. Ran her for 20+ minutes at around 2500 rpm. Now on to sorting out the triple 40 Mikunis and a possibly vacuum leak at the intake/manifold. Thanks again guys!

I'm showing continuity between the ignition start on the solenoid and GRND in the engine bay, so this doesn't seem right, yes?

I measured resistance of less than 0.1 @ 200 ohms.

Oh, and additionally pulling the RED/WHITE connector in the harness for the dash power at the passenger kick drops the circuit draw out too, but this may be obvious. It does seem logical that if the starter doesn't have a great ground that the ammeter would seek ground since huge amounts of current run to the back of the gauge through the dash harness.

Okay guys, this is helping. Hope I can help you help me. A few answers: The battery is grounded using the passenger seat belt bolt due to the battery relocation at the rear of the car. I could relocate that ground up to the starter through the firewall, though the unibody s30 should ground at any point give the connection is good. If there is a way to check for good ground connection, let me know. Below you can see the blown ammeter ground which is in the molex connector with the fuel level sending wires (YELLOW, YELLOW/RED). I traced the ground back to where it connects with the rest of the grounds in the harness and it looks like it's not overly cooked at this point: This is shot through the Ammeter Gauge housing in the dash looking toward the firewall. You can see the fried ground leading up to the rest of the harness. I fully charged my battery and started looking for draws in the system and realized that I was showing 11.5 draw at 600 vDC. I pulled fuzes with no avail until I pulled the 10A DOMELAMP LUZ INSTRU. That dropped it to .15 @ 20 vDC. Pulling the rest of the fuses didn't do anything. I'm going to get a '77 Volt and Fuel gauge to swap in, but I want to find the source of this disaster first.

I attached an image of the ground strap: Zed, I'm trying to wrap my head around the signal flow and the short-cut explanation helps. I found that the '71 has the similar gauge setup with FUEL/AMMETER ~ and I'm praying it's the only thing that shorted. I'm not 100% sure that it's happening only under starting. I need some more experience with my multimeter to accurately know what I'm testing for. Additionally, after reading through the link http://www.classiczc...ons-w-pictures/ Blue posted, I'm wondering if the issue is related to the electric fuel pump I installed utilizing the stock wiring harness...

Blue, thanks. I've been following that thread as I noticed it was at the top in a timely fashion. I noticed I'm not running a capacitor on either the harness side (where the regulator was disconnected) or the alternator side. I read that most don't run them as they only filter out static in the wire. I'm hoping that's accurate as I successfully tossed the old ones. Zed, The wire is not totally destroyed but it is pretty toast. I need to trace it back through the loom to see how far it was affected. It certainly got VERY hot. I'm not sure how to test for a shorted circuit in the ground system ~ but I am sure that there wasn't any issue until I was actually cranking the motor over. Any information on how to read my wiring since the gauges seem to be from a differing setup than all of the '72 wiring diagrams I've found? The ammeter seems to ground with the other gauges at the wiring harness that grounds near the starter? My starter is grounded to the wiring harness's ground point on the right frame rail through a grounding strap.

I realize this is an extremely old post.. I am in the process of trying to start an L28 in my '72 I rebuilt over the past few months. I'm running a 280zx alternator upgrade with the custom adaptor wiring plug from MSA. While priming the oil pump (ignition unplugged), cranking over, we noticed smoke coming from the cabin. After tearing the heater panel out I see that the BLACK wire that runs to my ammeter/fuel level gauge is toast/burnt/fried/kaput. I've been looking through my full color 240z wiring diagram, but they all show an ammeter/water temp gauge, not a amm/fuel gauge, so I'm a bit lost as to how to move forward and why that ground in particular would get so hot unless it was related to my new 280zx alternator. Attaching photo of the plugs on the alternator just in case you guys see something I am missing. On the following site: http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPageEngine&BodyElectrical.htm .. It reads that the stock ammeter won't work after the alternator upgrade, but not working would be an improvement over burning up my wiring harness. Below is a shot of the fried wire from the ammeter gauge harness... ....and also the 280zx voltage regulator diode connector. Many thanks in advance.. ~Cameron

Marty, thank you for the confirmation on that, although I'm completely undecided on running the relay.

71, Did you end up getting power to that plug? I just found this wiring harness yesterday in my '72 and am working on an alternate wiring than the example Jarvo2 gives. I'm almost done with my L28 build and have been contemplating how to wire in a Holley Blue for my triple Mikunis. I may be completely off here but it would seem that you could jump together the white/black wire and the green wire (in the harness behind the fuze box) and be sending ignition +12V to the rear pump location. Sure, you'd be bypassing an oil pressure shut-off switch, but you'd be supplying said power to green factory FP wire.

So I thought I'd post this since I had such difficulty finding the correct setup and answers. Hopefully others will find this post. Here is the schematic that explains this portion of the dash. I couldn't find it in the FSM that I have on file but it explained the wiring a bit better (for me at least): It shows the BLOWER SWITCH connected to the BLOWER MOTOR, then clarifies that the red power connected to the blue in-line 30A fuse, which you can clearly see in the bottom of Blue's above post. There are two blue billet connectors at the bottom right area behind the radio, one of which will/or at least should have the in-line fuse attached. I grounded my harness to the bolt which holds the heater-core box to the chassis which works. The additional blue molex connector I'm still unsure about, but my guess is that it connects to the additional AC unit.

I've got the same harness and wondering if anyone has figured this out... Also, can someone clarify where that ground connects normally? To the heater-core box or the blower-motor shell?

So, I'm bringing this back from the dead. I'm inside the dash of my '72 currently trying to figure out what's going on with my recently refurbished blower. I tested it while out of the car and now I'm trying to figure out what's going on. I hooked the red wire that comes off of the fan wiring harness into the blue in-line fuse wiring and I have sparks coming from what I thought was the ground (black wire, coming from the wiring harness that connects the blower motor and the fan switch. I believe this is the blue in-line fuse you were referring to? I've actually go two! One comes out of the harness for the in-line fuse and then back in, and the other blue in-line fuse terminates as an open connector. There's also this strange blue wire that terminates into a fuse but goes no where... no clue. I'm holding what I thought was the ground on the harness.

Hey all, So I'm deep in the middle of two projects as I await the return of my intake and balance from Ztherapy. Tomorrow I'm headed down the street to a neighbor's who is kind enough to lend me the use of his sand-blaster. Here's the box of parts that are headed to be blasted. And this beast.. So on to what I'm looking for. There are a number of small C-clips (horseshoe type piece) on both the heater core box and on each pivot point of the wiper arm assembly. Does anyone know a good replacement choice? I'm guessing I can re-grease the pivots and replace the factory fuzzy washers with my own design, but I haven't found these clips yet. The other pieces I'm looking for are the rubber-grommets from the wiper motor mounting plate which can also be seen below: I'm also searching for a replacement for the defroster ducting: Also, I'm looking for a assembly PDF for both wipers and heater. The Chilton's I have has practically nothing informational or chart-wise. Thank you all in advance for anything you can offer! ~Cameron

Sounds reasonable. Did you sell them at the meet or do you still have them?

There's definitely not much love for the DGV Webers. If mine looked and were sync'd the way they're supposed to I really wouldn't mind them. I'd seriously LOVE to make that meet but I have work all day. I have a couple buddies who are headed out there in a slammed 510. How much are you selling SUs for, and what kind of shape are they in?

Been dealing with the excitement (aka frustration) of carburation the past few days. It got hot here in the North Bay Area and I started noticing very rough idling to the point of dying at stops with my '72 240z (L24). I was also getting strange lag every 15 seconds or so, more at some rpms than others and some rough backfiring. I thought it might be a cylinder misfiring or bad plugs at first. Beyond being in contact with Bud from Redline Weber about the sad state of my current 32/36 linkage setup and making the included notes regarding mixture and idle settings. Then, this afternoon my car was running significantly smoother in all gears through the full rpm range above 1500 ~ the catch? I had my manual choke slightly engaged. Without the rpm dropping much below 1000 I was experiencing a much smoother ride, no backfiring, and only one or two places where getting on the gas quick lead to almost killing the engine (as if I were flooding it or something?). Anyway, the down side, other than running with the choke partially engaged was that when I stopped at the bank to deposit a check my engine tried to refuse being shut off, for at least 10 seconds. Dieseling I think I hear it called sometimes? So, I'm not positive that this is a carburation issue - any ideas? I also thought that maybe the afternoon had cooled off enough from the mid-day heat... although that could just be my mind creating the connection there. Thanks! By the way: Here are my findings from today's tooling around~ Mixture Screw settings: Front (left) Carb & Rear (right - closest to driver's seat) seated - no run, fires up then dies 1/2 back - doesn't run 1 full turn - no run 1 1/2 turn - fires up then dies after a few seconds 2 turns out - runs, rough @ 750 rpm, fluctuating between almost dying and 900 rpm - sometimes completely dies after a few minutes of fluctuation 2 1/4 turns - runs, still rough 2 1/2 turns - runs very rough at about 500 rpm 2 3/4 turns - barely runs, very very rough Idle Screw Tightened (counter-clockwise) idle 1/4 turn and went from 650 +/- rpm to abut 750 Tightened again another 1/8th and now idles at 850 - still fluctuation from 900 rpms