pureZero

***ZCCW Activity Calendar page for this drive*** Joshs Cape Flattery Drive | Z Car Club of Washington

Just because I haven't looked through the FSM in over a week, that doesn't mean you can make fun of me for it haha But yeah, I know it'll help me out. I just don't have enough time to do much of anything on the car on weekdays. There's a lot of things that I have to do on the car still, so my mind is going off in 10 other directions right now. Between cutting out the rust on the floor pans and patching them up (temporary, until I can afford to get new floor pans for it), repairing the few other spots of cancerous rust, getting it running, and getting it safe to drive (ie. new bushing kit and brake/clutch lines), and college, I have a lot on my plate. The car's main saving grace is the fact that the inner fenders are completely solid, as are the strut towers. There's nothing that can't be fixed by someone with very little formal wire-feed welder experience, given that said person is extremely quick on the learning curve.

Feel free to message me, or reply to this post, if you have any questions!

Hey everyone! I'm Josh, I'm based out of Port Angeles, WA and I am actually on my second Z now... My first was a 1990 2+2, which was wrecked back in 2011... I am now the owner of a 1978 280Z 2-seat, which I am working to get onto the road. I'll say this: it shouldn't be any harder than replacing the motor and transmission in my 300ZX in a tiny single car garage. That was a bit of a nightmare... Haha! I'm a member of the ZCCW, right now, but I hope to get involved with one of the Z clubs in Pennsylvania when I head over there for college this September.

That does help a little, thanks! Do you have a slightly more complete version of that though? I have the actual 78 wiring diagram printed out, which will help me greatly in tracing down the wiring.

*Not entirely sure if posting about drives is okay, but it is something I got started myself back in 2011. If it is not acceptable to advertise a drive on here, feel free to let me know, and I'll take it down.* On July 20, 2013, I'll be leading the ZCCW's third drive out to the Pacific coast west of Neah Bay, WA. Great drive out on HWY 112 along the Strait of Juan de Fuca on the way out, then we'll head back inland a ways and come back on HWY 101. This is a great day trip, and you won't want to miss it! The 2011 drive saw nine cars in attendance, 2012 had thirteen. I'm hoping to make my drive even more successful this year! Unknown road to E Lauridsen Blvd - Google Maps FYI: I wouldn't suggest bringing an excessively lowered car on this, as the roads out west of me aren't always in the best of shape. I would say anything lower than 5 inches might scrape at some spots.

I do have the injectors, and everything to install them, as well as a gasket kit. I also seem to have all the fuel lines except for most of the hoses. Anyone feel like taking a crack at telling me what all I'm missing?

I thought you were referring to something I can take off of it. I have a 1978 280Z, and I have my old 1990 300ZX still also. I got in an accident in the 300ZX a while ago, and I still haven't decided exactly what I want to do with it yet. What I was saying is that the fuel injection book was updated in November 1975, an my car is a 78. It's fairly close, but there's enough of a difference that I'm not comfortable with relying on the guide. The FSM is a little bit better though. I have to trace down each and every wire to see what it is as well.

Yeah, I also downloaded the FSM a while ago. And I actually do have a 300ZX, 1990 2+2. Why?

Can never get enough of this one!

I have also looked up the fuel injection reference booklet on XenonS30, but it's older than my car, so there are some differences in it.

All I could think to call it is bracket, sorry. The mount for the oil filter is covered in blue paint, and I mean covered. But yeah, intelligence (or a lack thereof) does come into play here, considering the car was missing an oil pan, radiator, airflow meter, and every single coolant line on the car. Nothing in the engine bay is labeled, except for the injector plugs and two other wires. The cat is hollowed out, the EGR valve is gone (which it will probably run better without it anyways, considering how old the car is...). I actually have $3000 into the car, as I paid $1000 for it. I would have walked away if it hadn't been for the fact that the only real rust on it is in the drivers floor pan. I really want to get the car running, get the body fixed up and painted, and get her on the road. As for what I have put into it so far... $400 into the brakes, $60 for a new radiator fan and fan clutch, $90 for a used radiator, $58 for an oil pan, $33 for a battery cover, $40 for some temporary mirrors, $40 on a new set of wiper arms, and the rest on various important parts from thezstore.com. I also bought an original hatch to replace the pantera hatch it came with, as I am not a big fan of them.

I understand the basic theory behind fuel injection very well, I just have never worked on one of these before. And by PFI, I meant Port Fuel Injection. This particular system seems a bit like a cross between TBI and port injection, to me. But yeah, I'll take a picture or two of the engine bay, and everything I have that is supposed to go into it. I hope someone will be able to chime in and tell me what all is missing, and possibly tell me where some of the parts I have are supposed to go. The guy I got it from was dumb enough to take it apart, paint a bunch of stuff (including the oil filter bracket), then never put anything back together.

Um... I did post the year of my car in the title. But anyways... Basically, the car is missing quite a few of the sensors and actuators. It is also missing quite a few hoses as well. I have a new airflow meter coming in for it. I've burned through my initial $2000 budget for working on it though, that's the problem. What i'm asking about, mainly, is the air regulator and boost controlled deceleration device. I'm actually a professionally trained mechanic myself, so I have a general idea of how it works, but I am always happy to defer to the experience of others. I just don't know a whole lot about PFI systems that don't rely on oxygen sensors.

I just bought one of these fine four-wheeled vehicular devices a couple weeks ago, and it is missing quite a few things. I was wondering what, if anything, can be eliminated for the car to run decently. I do not know much of anything about these cars, and it's really setting me back on my project...