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Thank you for your comments. Sorry I didn't reply sooner, working long hours. I managed to get a Haynes manual but the way that the ignition set up is written doesn't make a lot of sense to me. I'll have a read of the threads supplied then see if I can understand how to check the settings to establish if I have an ignition or fuel problem. Many thanks again.

Thanks for taking the time to reply, the explanation makes me suspect that the emissions don't have any part in the timing/ ignition. Earlier, I put a strobe light on the crank and had about 17 degrees BTDC whilst the engine was cold (Advance points). I didn't disconnect the vacuum line and plug it to check the retard. I have problems getting the engine warm to temperature as the fan is seized on so checking the retard is difficult plus the tacho isn't working. I'll have to read up and try to understand the dwell angle adjustment between advance and retard. I don't think I can be satisfied with the timing until I'm certain I've got the distributor adjusted correctly. I checked the part numbers supplied, Nissan over here want $1K for the distributor new and the other number didn't come back with any listing though D6K8-003 comes back as a 79-81 280ZX distributor with vacuum advance. I'll consider installing a standard 240Z distributor with a modern EI such as the Petronix, I've read that this combination is more reliable than the 280ZX unit. Thanks again.

Hi, Does anyone have thoughts on or knowledge of fitting electronic ignition on a (72) 240Z Automatic with Cali' emission control. I found this thread (shown below) from 3 years ago which tells me that switching from dual points to EI using a unit from the 280ZX is possible but will having emission control cause an issue? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/38049-duel-points.html I'm trying to cure a mis-fire. When the car came from the US, it had some US fuel in it and ran smoothly. I put in some UK 95 Octane fuel which I think converts to 91 RON and soon after it began to mis-fire. I've put in some premium unleaded, 99 Octane, but no improvement. It has been for a tune-up, the valves had to be adjusted, the front carb was sooted so this was cleaned up. I'm told that the timing is correct and that nothing was found to explain the problem. The guy who did it has been tuning for 50 years though it seems that the car with dual points and emission control confused him a bit. As well as a mis-fire it will back-fire from the exhaust when revved so I suspect un-burnt fuel is escaping into the exhaust. It doesn't back-fire from the carb. It drives OK, the problem comes at idle and when revving stationary. I'm thinking that EI will correct this and give a stronger spark. Any thoughts? Thanks.

The Flex plate I sourced was off a 1981 280ZX so I seem to have got the right one by chance. Good information for the future which might help offers. Thanks.

Hello, I managed to get a 280ZX flexplate after many months of trying and fitted it a few weeks back. There are those who suspect that the ZXT flexplate won't fit but until someone tries and updates the forum then we'll not be certain. Thanks, Ian.

For future reference if anyone is wanting to replace a 240Z flexplate, I can confirm that the 280ZX flexplate is a direct replacement. I couldn't find anyone from the US, UK or OZ who had done this swop to confirm it was possible though many suspected it was.

Thanks for your replies. I've attached two further photos, the relay is saying 'Horn'. Maybe it's part of the manufacturers name?The battery has died on me again so I can't check if its still working. That said, it wasn't working as the internal had been removed but I could short it out for it to work. The kickdown solenoid appears to be on the front section of the auto box. The horn relay uses different coloured wiring. I haven't spent much time on it today, the sun came out so I took the bike out. I think I'll have to do the checks as you suggest and see if my horn still works. You may know the effort it takes to change a radio with having to disconnect the heater controls so I'll try and get to the bottom of it before I put the Radio in and avoid having to take it out again. Thanks again.

I'll have a look at the 73 FSM. Yes, there is a switch on the accelerator. It's dark here now, after 10pm, and I don't have good lighting where I keep the car so I'll do those checks tomorrow and have a look at the relay. Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated.

Yes it does still have auto but I've not been able to drive the car since importing it because I need to pass a DMV inspection. If it is for the kickdown, I'm suspicious as to why it's been unplugged. The blower was also disconnected but seems to work now that I've reconnected the earth. I'll only find out once I get it on the road however those links you sent me had an article on relays so I'll have a read and see if there's a way to do some basic tests. Thanks again, hopefully If I've done it right there's now a signature at the bottom with car details. Thanks again.

They weren't the ones however they are very good articles I hadn't read before. I followed the 'Tech tips' link from one of those articles and it lead me to the one I was looking for by the same author, Turn Signal Repair | Fiddling With Z Cars Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Here's a picture of the wires in question....... Thanks.

Thanks for the reply, My car is a california import with the Air pollution control system. I also have a thermal relay being an Auto but that has a fourth 'red' wire. I'm sure someone will remember given time.

Just remembered, does anyone recall the thread on refurbishing the flasher combo switch, it had step by step photographs. There was also someone who could refurbish these switches. Any info on these would be appreciated, even if someone just remembered the user names. Thanks.

Hello, I can't relocate a thread I read a few weeks ago which identified a plug with 2 black and 1 green wire behind the dash. I'm putting a new Radio in and the wires I'm looking at are under where the Radio sits with a 3 pin solenoid fixed to the left side bracket. The plug wasn't fitted onto the solenoid but it will fit. I've downloaded the colour wiring diagram but don't see it shown. Can anyone identify this or remember the thread which discussed it. Don't want to plug it in, switch on and see what happens. Thanks.

I've been in discussion with the guy on ebay who sold me this ring and he states it is from a 1981 280ZX Auto. Would anyone know if there's any possibility that the 81 ZX Auto had a bolted on ring gear and not welded? Thanks.

It seems to me that when the engine is switched off the rotation hits a point of resistance mostly at a certain point. I do have a mis-fire and one plug that seems to be fouled so I should check to see where on the firing order the worst of the damage is on the flexplate. That's a great idea to take your old one for a comparison but the shipping to the UK will be expensive and we just don't have any supply of parts for these cars, there won't be any in our bone yards. Automatic models were very rare until the 280ZX came out plus the 280Z never came out over here and the Maxima was very rare over here. I think it was only the 1990's version we got and I haven't seen one of those for maybe 10 years. I don't have any experience of automatics so flexplates and torque convectors are all new to me. The guy I bought the one shown above from told me that his mechanics were separating the engine and transmission but undid the wrong bolts and the ring gear came off. I don't understand this, surely both have to be split apart before the ring would come off. I thought the flexplate bolted to the engine side but you say its bolted to the torque convertor. Next time someone tries to sell me a perfect A+ with no faults and everything works car, I'll be more sceptical. Thanks again.